November 15, 2017

1974 Mark - No Power At Fuse Box

Hello Bill -

Yours is a wonderful site. I have learned so much just from reading here. Otherwise, I might have 100 more questions. One thing I have learned here is how important an accurate schematic is. I have seen a couple and so many wire colors and paths were wrong that you don't know how much may be correct. So I wanted to know how much is the wiring schematic for a 1974 Mark IV.

But I was hoping you could get me out of a rut by telling me why the clips on my fuse box powered by the large black wire with green dots don't have voltage. They are not switched (I don't think) because there is no heavy black wire in the ignition switch. I pulled off all the tape in the factory harness back to the battery looking for a junction for it but it was not there either, only the heavy black wire with orange stripe which sprouted 4 yellow wires that fed two relays on the firewall and went into the connectors to the interior. The big black wire seemed to go to the blower motor resistor coil rack on the ATC system. Which makes no sense to me. I'm about to jump my fuse box to a heavy switched wire out of aggravation, but wanted to hear from you first.

I would appreciate your help,

Thank you ,

John

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Hi John -

Wiring problems sure can be frustrating at times. No one can hazard a decent guess as to why you have no power at any connection at the fuse box without some meaningful diagnosis. The first test that I always make when following an electrical power path is to verify that my test light is working properly at the vehicles battery. Testing equipment can fail. Any testing such as you are describing should also be performed ( as you agree ) with the correct wiring diagram at your side. Circuit testing with the use of this diagram would also save you needing to unwrap the factory wiring harness.

A specific Wiring Diagram is needed so that you can diagnose the issues in proper sequence. We are able to supply you with most repair parts needed.

Sincerely,

Bill

November 6, 2017

1964 Continental Wheel Balancing Questions

Hello Bill -

I have a 1964 Lincoln Continental convertible with standard 15-inch wheels. I am getting a vibration at about 30 miles an hour that disappears at higher speeds. I am thinking that this is a wheel balancing issue, as all the front end parts are in good condition. Can I get a dynamic wheel balance using weights only on the inside of the rim? If not, how can I get a good wheel balance where the weights don't show on the outside?

Thanks,

Elaine

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Greetings Elaine -

Many shops are able to balance the wheels with the weights on the inside of the wheel. The key is to visit a good known shop with up to date modern well kept equipment and discuss this with the manager. You can also ask them to record the out of balance information that your wheels had before their weights were added. A little bit of shopping should produce the results that you are after.

Sincerely,

Bill

October 30, 2017

1979 Town Car Wiper Issues

Hi there!

Love the blog, just got my first Lincoln and I'm going through some minor issues. One is the wipers. They stop wherever they happen to be when you turn them off. They don't return to the start position. The switch feels pretty loose, but maybe that's just the way it is, I'm not sure. Do you think it's a switch, module, or motor issue? I should add that the intermittent feature doesn't seem to work either. The regular speeds work, but I can't seem to make the intermittent feature work. Thanks!

Patrick

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Greetings Patrick -

Congrats on your recent Lincoln purchase . They are great vehicles. Wipers that will not park when turned off is NOT a rare issue with electric wipers for this era of FoMoCo products and we have many times found the problem to be the dash switch, the internal motor switches, or a bad ground etc. To be accurate, the faults must be diagnosed as per the correct shop manual to avoid guessing and possibly replacing good parts. The manual also explains the intermittent wiper operation and chances are that correcting the " no park" issue will correct the intermittent wiper operation as well. We can supply the necessary manuals if you would need them.

Sincerely,

Bill

October 27, 2017

1965 Power Steering Issues

Bill,

I have a 65 Lincoln and replaced the power steering pump because when I bought it the old one was leaking. Even with the good pump, the power steering turns to the right by itself, even with the wheels on the ground. No leaks anywhere, Ford type F ATF in the system and I bleed the system as documented using the windshield wipers. Any ideas why this would happen? I am assuming it may be a seal leak in the power steering gear?

Thanks in advance,

Greg

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Greetings Greg -

Whether or not your steering system rotated the wheels without you turning the steering wheel before or only after the pump replacement the issue certainly sounds like a problem in the steering gear. The pump supplies hydraulic pressure to the gear for both left and right hand turns. Without you directing the gear for a turn with the steering wheel, no turning action should occur. Something must be amiss or plugged inside the steering box as you suspect. The system should be further diagnosed by a competent local steering technician in order to pinpoint the problem. It would be helpful for you to know the history of any previous repairs to these components by the former owner. We do have repair kits and a rebuild service available for these boxes.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 25, 2017

1966 Continental Sedan Brake Light Issues

Bill -

I'm having brake light problem with my Lincoln. Turn signals running lights and emergency flashers work but no brake lights. I have power coming and going from the brake switch to turn signal switch but no power to anything in the trunk. In the schematic it shows a "stop lamp relay" but I cannot seem to locate it or find anything online. Also shop manual says there is a stop light breaker "r.h. Cowl side panel" page 15-8 I also can't find location of that. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Rob

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Hi Rob -

The brake light relay on a 66 is located under the hood on the left side ( drivers side ) inner fender mounted on a rubber pad, near the cover with the other relays. The breaker panel should be located under the dash forward of the glove box. The wire colors at the relay should be:

Red with white tracer

Green with white tracer

Green

You will of course need to trace the power path from the brake switch to the relay and turn signal switch and to the rear lights. Keep in mind that the vehicles with the tilt steering wheel option use a very different turn signal switch than those with a fixed wheel.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 15, 2017

1970 Mark - New Owner Questions

Hello Bill,

I just found your blog and I am very interested in it. I hope I do not make any faux pas in this first email. My late mother-in-law left a family heirloom to us after she passed. It is her originally owned 1970 Mark III that has been in storage for some time. I am trying to put it back on the road for occasional Sunday drives and have already completed a number of deferred maintenance issues. There are five items that I have not been able to resolve:

1) The hydraulic windshield wipers will not turn off.

2) The engine instruments will work sometimes and other times not. The ignition switch is very sloppy and the outside basil (?) can be pulled off exposing the key slot. It will fit back on and start the engine with no problems.

3) The drivers side window will not work. The motor sounds when the electric button is pushed but does not move. The window can be pulled up and pushed down by hand.
The small rear window on both sides do not work at all when the master control at the drivers station is pushed or when the individual stations are pushed.

4) I just had the A/C system switched over to the current type of coolant and had a new compressor installed and it worked fine the next few time that we drove the car. Yesterday, when activated, the compressor loads the engine but only hot air comes out of the vents, regardless of where the "TEMP" switch on the "AUTOMATIC TEMPERATURE CONTROL" is set. Sometimes the fan will come on when the top lever is moved to LOW and to HIGH but after turning the engine off and then on the fan will not come on unless I move the top lever to DE-FOG or DE-ICE.

5) Do you have any suggestions or guidance on where I may find information on these systems? I realize, now, that it would have been better if I would have sent individual emails for each item. If you like I will break them down in individual emails.

Thank you in advance for any help that you may be able to give to me.

Bill

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Greetings Bill -

Congratulations on your 1970 Mark III purchase. They are great cars and are much admired by car collectors. With the issues that you are describing you have plenty of work and learning ahead. A wiring diagram as well as your Shop Manuals will be needed. Electrical skills etc. and some test equipment are also very necessary. Since you are reporting the problem items with no diagnosis information I can only advise you what usually fails on these items. You or your mechanic will need to do the diagnosis.

The wiper problem could be a maladjusted control cable, the vacuum hose to the wiper motor from the switch is not bleeding off after the windshield washer is activated ( both can be observed at the hydraulic motor by moving the access panel forward at the hydraulic hoses at the engine side of the firewall ) or the motor is internally defective.

The temp., oil and fuel gauges are powered by a single Instrument panel Voltage Regulator (IVR) located behind the clear plastic lens beside the gauges. The shop manual explains the operation and diagnosis very well.
Your description of the non operative drivers door window sounds like the popular window motor gear failure. We always have parts in stock for this problem. The quarter windows issue description indicates that they have been dormant for a long time and are stuck in position from lack of activity. Many times they can be reactivated with the use of a commercial high amp battery charger temporarily on the battery and the switch cycled to the UP and Down position until they start to operate. If this fails and the motor is receiving power, the mechanism inside the quarter panel will need to be partially loosened or disassembled until it moves. Of course there are other possibilities but this is the most common. When the windows are finally repaired, always lower them very very slightly when the car is stored to unload the motors and gears.

The ignition switch part that is sloppy and not attached will need to be disassembled as per the shop manual and observed for broken parts. We should have parts available at Lincoln Land.

Your Automatic Climate Control consists of the refrigeration system and its controls. Lack of cooling indicates the possibility of a leaking refrigerant issue but your report of the many other conditions tells me that there are several other problems that exist. These systems can be extremely complicated for those that have no experience however the shop manual is excellent in all respects with operation explanations and diagnosis procedures. We have parts available as well as professional testing and rebuilding of the ATC box and Servo.

At L.L. we see vehicles that have had many of cobbled up electrical and mechanical parts that can be a nightmare for a new owner. We wish you the best of luck in your diagnosis and timely repairs. We also look forward to supplying you with the needed parts.

Sincerely,

Bill

August 30, 2017

1975 Mark IV Wire Repair

Bill -

Good afternoon, I was checking the electric choke wire for the carb (someone had cut it off) so I pulled the tape off all the wires in that area. I found that the ground wire from the alternator to splice S-202 (according to my wiring diagrams), which splits the alt wire into four, had been broken very close to the splice. Naturally, someone had to skip doing it right and just twisted a new piece in as well as they could, which wasn't much. Needless to say, there isn't much left to connect to. My question is, where may I find a S-202 (shaped like a cylinder) or is there some other proper fix? Couldn't find anything specific on Google. Thank you.

Jim

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Jim -

Repairs such as you describe are usually simply improvised on scene by an automotive electrical technician with the proper use of a solder gun, solder, heat shrink if needed and then followed up with a professional wrap with electrical tape. These materials are available at local electrical suppliers along with any appropriate sleeve connectors etc. that are needed. FoMoCo never offered any repair instructions for any specific splices unless that splice or any other connectors became a common problem and required redesigning.

Sincerely,

Bill

August 22, 2017

1971 Mark III Brake Issues

Bill,

My Mark III had brake service performed by the previous owners at 90,000 miles, including rear wheel cylinders, shoes and hardware, front calipers, pads and hoses replaced. The system performed well and after I took delivery had it inspected for safety and everything checked out OK. At about 91K miles, it began demonstrating the tell-tale symptoms of a bad master cylinder: a slowly sinking pedal at stop signs and red lights. There was a little leakage behind the master cylinder onto the booster, and the old master cylinder looked a little too pitted inside to rebuild, so I replaced both. The booster holds vacuum and the push-rod is properly adjusted to a new master cylinder. However after bench bleeding the master cylinder and then using the two-man system to bleed the rest of the system on the car, I get a very soft pedal. It easily goes almost to the floor before the brakes "grab". This is when the engine is running with vacuum to the booster. The pedal is very hard when the engine if off. I've tried three master cylinders so far, at first assuming a bad master out of the box. I've tried bench bleeding using the bleeder tube system and the plugged outlet ports system until there's no more air or I'm not able to depress the piston further. Even though nothing else has changed on the brake system, I've checked all four wheels, the shoes are still adjusted to the drums and I find no loss of fluid anyplace. I haven't touched the Sure Track system or pressure differential valve except to temporarily disconnect the brake lines between it and the master cylinder to make room for the booster work. The common behavior I notice each time is that when I fill the reservoirs on the bench, fluid eventually drips only from the primary outlet port, never from the secondary port. I've read that each port should drip by gravity alone, and that some even bleed a car by gravity. Could this be a problem with multiple master cylinders, or is gravity bleeding from both ports not necessary here? Am I missing an adjustment someplace else? Is there a particular challenge getting all the air out of the system on this particular car? I want to be thorough and consider everything before I break down and tow it in.

Bradley

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Hi Bradley -

If all of the brake work, fluid bleeding and adjustments were performed properly as you describe, your sinking pedal does sound strongly like a classic by-passing master cylinder. Since we are not the supplier or the installers of your rebuilt master cylinders, I cannot comment on their quality.

However, since you are a local customer of Lincoln Land it may be a good idea for you to make an appointment with our service dept. for a professional on scene diagnosis. Doing this could save you further disappointment in the future.

Sincerely,

Bill

August 21, 2017

1978 Mark V Diamond Jubilee Dash Lights

Hey Bill -

I recently bought a 1978 Lincoln Mark V Diamond Jubilee Edition and there seems to be an issue with the lights. All exterior lights work and most of the interior except the instrument cluster. Not sure if there is a fuse for those lights specifically... I did change a fuse that said "inst. cluster" but it didn't seem to do anything besides stop my clock. All the warning lights work as well as the miles-to-empty gauge. So all the lights work besides the instrument cluster which wont light... Id appreciate any advice you can give me.

Thanks - Rocco

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Hi Rocco -

Nice cars those Marks. The Mark V is becoming quite popular among collectors. I can help you get started on diagnosis by explaining how the Instrument lighting is powered. The power for these lights does go through a small fuse in the fuse panel but this power originates at the instrument light dimmer that is integral with the headlamp switch. Possibilities for your issue are that the dimmer is merely rotated to the Off position or that the switch and rheostat itself is faulty. The above are only suggestions based on your information that must be verified with diagnosis. We can offer to test and repair your switch if necessary if you are unable to.

For DIY diagnosis you will require the Shop Manual, wiring diagram and a 12v test light. We usually have manuals and diagrams available . Trying to repair the electrical without some meaningful diagnosis usually results in frustration along with wasted time and parts.

Sincerely,

Bill

August 16, 2017

79 Stalls Out - Carb Issues

Hi Bill,

Josh here. I have a 79 Lincoln Continental and well, she idles really high. And I'm not sure how to tone it down, I've adjusted the carb idle screw. It wont turn anymore without the engine shutting off. It likes to stall out quite a bit. I'm guessing because of the same issue? When I shut off the key after running into town and she is all warmed up to op temp. She sputters for a few seconds and sometimes even about 15. Shakes the whole car then finally makes a sound like air out of a tire. Before shutting off. I was told that the timing is too advanced, I've been told to get a new carb. And I've been told to adjust the carb more. (Which I cannot) any help would be great. She will be going to a shop this Friday. It's 8/14/17

Sincerely,

Josh

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Greetings Joshua -

From your description, carburetor adjustment or a worn out binding carburetor does indeed seem to be your "too fast of an idle" problem. The adjustments for the various carburetors that were used in 1979 are clearly shown along with all of the other carburetor functions in the Factory Shop manual which you need to perform the adjustments. Unfortunately I cannot observe the state of adjustment, condition of your carburetor or even see if it is the original carb. with all of the original controls installed and functioning correctly. If you for any reason are unable to follow the adjustment procedures in the correct shop manual, someone local in your area with carburetor experience will need to do this for you. If we can be of further help with any parts for this repair please contact us again at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

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