April 23, 2014

1988 Town Car AC Questions

Dear Bill,

I converted my 1988 Lincoln Town Car from R-12 to R-134a. I took it apart, replaced seals, drained and flushed the oil from the entire system and replaced it with R-134a compatible fluid. I also replaced all the seals, a pressure line and the accumulator. Now, after I evacuated the system for 45 minutes (both high and low pressure sides) and attempted to recharge the system, it would not draw in the R-134a into the system from the low pressure side.

I'm stumped! What am I doing wrong/missing?

Thank you.

Very truly yours,

Stephen

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Hello Stephen -

In order for a refrigerant charge to take place the system must have lower pressure than the refrigerant container pressure. Proper a/c gauges are a must along with correct connections and adaptors for the system being charged. I of course cannot see what you have done wrong if anything from here but if there was lower pressure at the Low Pressure port some refrigerant transfer should have taken place. Sometimes the cycling switch plug in needs to be temporarily jumped electrically to hold the a/c clutch on in order to create this lower pressure. It is also possible that your new 134a adaptor ports are incorrect and you may not have proper access to the system.

In any case the correct charge should be weighed in with an appropriate scale and with the use of gauges. If you are at all unsure of your procedures etc. I would advise you to seek professional help in order to avoid damaging your system or causing injury to yourself.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 18, 2014

1978 Continental 400 Cutting Out

Hi Bill -

I have a 1978 Lincoln Continental with a 400 that will start cold, run great for about 1-2 minutes and then cut out immediately. At that point, the engine has no spark. We have replaced the ignition control module, coil, EGR valve, PCV valve, pick up coil for the distributor, spark plugs, wires, cap rotor and are still having the same problem. The engine is getting fuel.

It has to be something simple at this point following all the parts replaced but we are out of ideas.

One thing we noticed is that the power seat clicks when the door opens on the car. We have heard of a secondary ignition switch, and wonder if the power seat relay may be interfering in some way and shorting things out but simply don't know what to think at this point.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

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Greetings Steve -

As you are finding out some of these electrical issues sure can be a nuisance. If you are actually loosing ignition after 1-2 minutes as you have stated I would want to first determine if the fault is loss of electrical power to the electronic ignition components under the hood from the ignition switch or a further under hood wiring or electronic issue that you could have previously overlooked. To properly diagnose in this manner you will need the correct vehicle wiring diagram and a 12 volt test light. The wiring diagram will show you the correct wire and color under the hood to monitor with the test light for this test with the engine running. When the engine stops due to loss of spark (as you have stated) your test light will either go off or remain lit. If the light remains lit, the problem will be a further under hood fault. If the light goes off, the problem will be somewhere in the wiring towards the ignition switch, any junctions or the switch itself. In this case the wiring diagram can be used for further testing in order to pinpoint the fault. Always keep a lookout for possible wiring modifications by a previous owner. A shop manual would be needed to understand and further test the Duraspark components on the engine side.

I have no knowledge of an actual secondary ignition switch as such but on a two door coupe the click that you hear could be from the automatic seat back release solenoid as the door is opened in order to gain easy entry and exit to the rear seating area.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 11, 2014

1969 Mark III Charging Issues

Hi -

I have a 1969 Lincoln Mark 3 I just recently replaced the alternator because it wasn't properly charging the battery now it is not charging at all what could be my problem it's driving me crazy.

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Greetings -

As I understand it, the alternator was replaced because it was not charging properly and now it is not charging at all. Was it replaced with a rebuilt and tested one or only another one with an unknown condition. An important fact that you should be aware of is that most Mark III's of this era (69- early 70) were unique in that they have a special exterior mounted electronic voltage regulator. Many alternators are replaced without any meaningful diagnosis therefore I would advise you to have the charging system checked out at a local automotive electrical shop to find out if the alternator has any output etc. or if it is indeed correct for your vehicle.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 4, 2014

1968 Continental Power Steering Issues

Hi Bill -

I found your blog and that you've helped so many people, I hope you can help me.

I have a 68 Continental and the power steering fails to assist after the power steering system begins to warm up... maybe after 1 hour of the engine running. It works fine when cold, with no sounds of the pump straining.

I put the car in the air and disconnected the Pittman arm to see if the linkages were causing extra strain on the pump or steering box. Some joints moved freely with just a noticeable amount of tension to a few joints as compared to the rest. Ball joints were free as well. With the front wheels on turntables and the linkages connected without the Pittman arm connected, I can manually move the wheels left and right with slight effort but I'm not straining. Without the Pittman arm connected, I can steer at the steering wheel all day and have no issues with the steering box or pump. I reassembled the Pittman Arm, and put the car back on normal ground surface. I had a friend who is an expert in steering and suspension suggest that I install a pressure gauge between the pump and the steering box, and the readings were unusually high as I steered left and right (pressures that he was not used to seeing in a steering system). PSI reading from 600-800 PSI for normal left and right turns...without hitting the stops. Someone also suggested I get a temperature reading on the components to see which got hotter first or was the hottest...maybe indicating a restriction in the system. By the way, the wiper motor works perfectly. I've done a lot of research and investigating and my guess is to condemn the steering box. I'm thinking that the valving has become worn/ restricted and is sensitive to the slightest strain put on it. Any input on your part would be very helpful.

Sincerely,

Shane

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Hello Shane -

I'm not sure if you have the Factory Service Manual or not but shown in this manual are specific pressure tests for this era of Lincolns. Since you indicate that your steering is fine when cold I am leaning toward a possible pressure drop from the pump that is due to the thinner oil at normal operating temperature. If this is so, the pump may be failing. The correct p/s fluid as specified MUST be used in this system. Incorrect fluid can produce low pressure when hot. Accurate diagnosis is of course very important because of the parts and labor costs of the unnecessary replacing or repairing components that are already in good order. We are including in our reply to you a copy of the shop manual pages for pressure testing Lincoln and other p/s pressures. You can then note the high normal operating pressures needed for the Lincoln p/s system and you can also perform your tests with the fluid cold and hot in order to compare. These crankshaft mounted pumps are well known to require overhauling after all of these years and we do offer this service. If we can be of further service, do not hesitate to contact us.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 1, 2014

1962 Continental Lighting Issues

Hi Bill -

My name is Jeremy i have a 1962 Lincoln Continental with a couple electrical problems . The first problem is when the headlights are on with the high beams, the right turn signal indicator comes on solid instead of the high beam indicator. Also if the right turn signal is activated at the same time, the high beam indicator flashes instead of the turn indicator. All outside lamps seem to operate normally, and if the high beams are not on, the inside lamps function normally as well. However if the headlight switch dimmer is turned to full dim, all the dash lights dim, but the right turn indicator comes on full bright .

Thank you,

Jeremy

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Hi Jeremy -

Interesting issue and I like the way that you word your question. It sounds like a trick riddle. Your problem seems to be centered in the instrument cluster area and related as to whether or not the high beams are activated or not. The 62 Lincolns have a printed circuit for these bulbs and for that reason and the symptoms that you describe I think that I would want to start by removing the cluster assembly and examining all electrical paths of the printed circuit board very carefully for "breaks" or other issues. Some of the boards can be repaired easily and some are deteriorated and require replacement. You may even find evidence of a previous repair. While doing this work be sure to ascertain first that the unit and the grounded portion of the printed circuit is in fact grounded as designed during the inspection. A manual with the correct wiring diagram can be a big help in this diagnosis.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 31, 2014

1965 Continental Defrost Issues

Hi Bill -

How you doing? I have a 1965 Lincoln Continental and the defrost will not work the heat vents and all work but the first time I took the dash apart the blower switch was fried and a little melted I replaced that and then found a vacuum leak I traced the leak to what I thought was the evaporator shutter actuator which I replaced checked the new/used one and it was leaking but it held vacuum fine when I installed it. Then I got a N.O.S. one and put it in checked it and everything was good so I put most of it back together and once all the vacuum lines were hooked up I checked the system and it was leaking again! And I checked the evap shutter actuator and it was leaking again. Do you have any ideas of what it could be or what to check, change or replace or guidance in the right direction?

Thank You,

Domenic

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Domenic -

Your statement "And I checked the evaporator shutter actuator and it was leaking again" suggests that you may be working with old and deteriorated vacuum actuators. Unfortunately it is entirely possible for even n.o.s. parts such as this to be aged and ready to fail when they are installed. This can happen with certain parts that are fifty years old and stored in all sorts of environments. In any case the best way to test and diagnose a/c-heat vacuum systems is with the use of a shop manual that has the " correct vacuum schematics" shown and using a hand held vacuum pump as you may have been doing already. This manual will also show you the defrost duct work installation and the vacuum flow of the various switch positions. This way you can test the integrity of the vacuum switch and all of the vacuum components separately as well as determine if the vacuum hoses are routed correctly by color code etc. If required we have many parts available for your 65 Lincoln. Good luck and let us know how the repair goes.

Sincerely,

Bill

1966 Continental ATC Issues

Hey Bill,

I just recently purchased a 1966 4dr Sedan and am currently trying to get the air conditioning working. It is equipped with the ATC system, my symptoms are as follows: The blower only works in the De-Ice position. The shop manual calls for locating a disconnected vacuum hose from MCU to a tee near the steering column. Is there a vacuum diagram available? Or do you have any experience with the same symptoms. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

Brandon

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Brandon -

Yes, we do have the correct Shop Manuals available for your recently acquired 66 and we do have experience with the symptoms that you are describing. This unique 1966 Lincoln ATC control system was only used for the one year. The 67-69 Lincolns used an improved set up supplied by Bendix and the suggested repair for any problems that were internal to the ATC box in a 66 was to convert to the later improved units. Ford supplied a kit at that time that contained a new atc box and control head etc. with instructions for the conversion procedure. We can assemble and supply such a kit to you if one is required for this repair but you should first determine what unit is presently in your car. Yours may have already been converted. A part number can be found on the atc box that will identify the year. Of course you can still trace the vacuum hoses and electrical connections on your car for a possible disconnect but most issues can be found within the atc box and or the control head. If we can be of further assistance please do not hesitate to contact our office.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 25, 2014

1979 Mark V Upper End Noise

Bill -

I have a 1979 Mark V with a 400 Engine, it has noise in the upper end. I was wondering if the valves are adjustable on this motor.

Sincerely,

Randy

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Randy -

The valves are not adjustable in the manner that we would like in order to eliminate the upper valve noise. The noise should be diagnosed and pinpointed accurately as it may be a worn part or parts in this area that will need replacing. Technicians will also consider such items as engine mileage and engine oil pressure etc. when diagnosing upper end noises such as you are experiencing. The FoMoCo shop manual for the 79's has a very good engine section describing engine noise diagnosis.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 13, 2014

1963 Continental Exhaust Manifold Gasket Question

Hello Bill,

The exhaust manifold gasket on the passenger side of the car has just started to leak. Having never replaced one before, are there any tips or suggestions you may have. A few questions: Is it necessary to disconnect the manifold from the exhaust pipe? Could I just remove the 8 nuts and pull it off, is there enough clearance to do it that way? Is it necessary to have it machined or should I use a fiber gasket verses metal? The repair manuals don't really touch on this topic, so I am pretty blind going into this. Any tips or advice would be great! You have helped me in the past with other issues, and it's much appreciated!

Thanks,

Robert

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Robert -

In theory your statement "could I just remove the eight nuts and pull it off, is there enough clearance " is wishfull thinking in most cases when a vehicle is fifty years old and may have years of corrosion and overtightened components etc. by previous owners. In some cases heads need to be removed for broken studs and refinishing the gasket surfaces of both parts may be required. If you have an exhaust leak in this area you must proceed carefully and do what is necessary to remove and replace the manifold gasket. You may indeed be lucky and need only a new gasket. We recommend and sell a high quality fiber gasket to assure a good seal.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 6, 2014

1970 Mark III Blower Motor Question & Update

Hi Bill,

I have a 1970 Mark III and the blower motor is making a noise. I have the 1970 shop manuals. I don't know if something changed between 1970 and 71 but I just don't see the recirc door assembly. In the Electrical book 34-05-13 there is a picture that just doesn't look like what I am seeing. I'm assuming you have to take the piece of side carpet out? Also what is so special about the blower motor? I see a lot of them available but it says w/o AC.

Thanks in advance for your assistance. The car has 49K miles on it. See attached picture.

Jim

mk-b.jpg

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Hi Jim -

The blower motor for a heater only and heat/ac car are one and the same for the 69-71 Mark III's (same part number for their respective years) although there was some design differences that we have seen during those years. Always compare before installing a replacement as some years use a different blower wheel. The removal procedure should be shown in your manual in the heater section if it is not shown in the a/c section. The recirc. assembly behind the rt. kick pad must be removed for access. Contact us for any further information or parts that you may require.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Bill,

Thank you for your reply. Unfortunately the directions for the Mark III are sketchy and there are no pictures. It says remove the right cowl side trim panel. I'm assuming that means the little kick pad of carpet in the floorboard well? I've looked at it and there's not a lot of room down there so I'm hesitant to go ripping things up without really knowing where I'm going.

Any assistance would be a greatly appreciated.

Thank You,

Jim

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Hi Jim -

The manual is unclear regarding the blower removal procedure. We are sending you a drawing via email of the recirc. assembly that must be removed in order to gain access to the blower. As mentioned the right kick pad panel at the rt. cowl needs to be removed to expose the recirc. assembly. This assembly is held in place by several screws which will need a 3/8 inch socket to remove. One vacuum line and one wire plug will need to be disconnected as well. Removal of the glove box liner and possibly disconnecting the fuse box will be a visual aid in this removal. The blower is then held by one screw. After this screw is removed the unit is rotated counterclockwise to clear the tabs that hold it in place. Sometimes age and rust can make the rotation difficult therefore patience may be required. We hope that this helps.

Sincerely,

Bill