December 1, 2016

1967 Continental Starting Issues

Hi Bill -

I am working on my 67 Lincoln 4 door Sedan with the 462 engine and am having starting problems. I should say that the car is mechanically fully rebuilt and ran great, but was sitting for a while and now it seems that the gas in the carb drains back into the gas tank or disappears somehow, because the car wont start for a while till the carbs fill up and then it runs fine with no dying or hesitation - that's what it feels like. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Fred

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Greetings Fred -

The modern ethanol fuels tend to evaporate quicker than the fuels of the sixties. The fuel cannot drain back into the fuel tank. I would first do a complete fuel system test. This will include a fuel pump pressure and volume test as per the shop manual and an inspection of the fuel lines hoses and possibly the fuel pickup in the fuel tank. The fuel pump must supply the correct volume and pressure in order to fill the carburetor quickly on an engine that has been sitting for a period of time. The pumps can be weak and/or the push rod that operates it could be worn to less than the necessary 4 and 13/16 " to operate it properly.

Sincerely,

Bill

1994 Continental Wiper Issues

Bill -

When the wipers are on Full does it still run through the intermittent Governor. My wipers stop after 10 minutes of driving, kick back in 10-15 minutes later. Today they did not kick back on. I opened the hood and when I closed it must jarred something because they started to work. What should I check as it is intermittent.

Randy

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Randy -

We usually diagnose these issues as per the shop manual. In your case and as a start, an examination of the hidden wiper linkage first for debris that has accumulated could be a good idea. Next would be to check for loose electrical connections at the motor etc. Be advised however that we do not have too many parts available for this year and model of Continental.

Sincerely,

Bill

November 28, 2016

1979 Mark V Blower Motor Removal

Bill -

I can't find a procedure in my Factory Shop Manual for removal of the Blower Motor for my 1979 Mark V.

Thank you -

Ken

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Hi Ken -

That procedure seems to have been omitted from the 1979 shop manual. We are sending you the procedure from the 1972 manual for a Thunderbird. this should be the correct procedure for your 1979 Mark. Please let us know if this works for you. We stock many parts for your vehicle and we look forward to your first purchase from us.
Sincerely,

Bill

1969 Mark III Headlight Indicator

Hey Bill,

My headlight indicator light at the top started acting weird. Normally, I'm pretty sure it only lights up for a second or two right after you turn on the lights. But now, it stays lit up when I have my headlights on. If I had the lights on and quickly switched it off-then-on, it lights up instantly and stays on. If I turn it off, wait a few seconds, then turn them back on, it lights up after a few seconds and stays on. I'm worried, because I don't want the light to over heat the panel or plastic. Any help will be appreciated, thanks.

John

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Greetings John -

You don't mention if you have the Automatic Headlamp Dimmer option. If you have this option and it is turned ON, the system may be trying to warm up and operate. The owners manual will explain this operation to you if you have one. Or are you referring to one of the over head panel light indicators above the windshield. This light advises you if the headlamp covers are open or not with the headlamps turned on. The manual should explain this operation as well.

Sincerely,

Bill

October 18, 2016

1973 Continental Starter Removal Issues

Hi Bill,

I am replacing the starter on my 73 Continental. I can get the existing starter disconnected but when it comes to actually removing from the car the steering linkage is in the way. I saw in an earlier response you suggested disconnecting the idler from the frame. I also read in an old Mitchell manual I have that I may need to turn the wheels to the right and disconnect the idler. The only problem is I still don't think I have enough room to wiggle it out and away from the car. I also thought about trying to take off the solenoid to gain more wiggle room but I don't know if that's a good idea. Any suggestions? Please feel free to email me directly, thanks!

Tom

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Hello Tom -

The removal of the starter is shown on page 28-03-04 of the 1973 Factory Shop Manual for that style of starter on the 460 cid engine. It describes turning the steering linkage for a right turn and disconnecting the idler arm from the vehicle frame in order to maneuver the starter out on the Mark IV. There may also be a brace in the way and blocking removal that will need to be disconnected at one end as well. The full size Lincoln model may not require this procedure at all. If you have some aftermarket type of exhaust pipe or any other non factory parts etc. interfering, you will need to disconnect these parts. Another thought to possibly consider is that a badly deteriorated motor mount could be lowering the engine and causing some interference. Removing the solenoid from the starter prior to removing the assembly is not advised.

Sincerely,

Bill

October 14, 2016

1977 Town Car Headlight Door Issues

Bill,

Saw your response to another post about similar problem they had with a Mark V. The 77 Town Car I have is in Hawaii and no local mechanic seems to be able or want to find that vacuum leak. What's happened so far is when I got the car a few years ago, the leak was such that doors stayed shut for about 3 days before starting to gradually open. Both would open at the same time and at the same rate. The problem got gradually worse. Upon investigating this, somebody suggested trying to change check valve near fire wall. Did this. No change. Also changed headlight switch as that too was suggested as possible culprit. So car had to go into shop for over a year to get engine changed. When I got car back, doors were worse. Driver side door slow to open and close even when engine on. Passenger side opens and closes quickly like before. But now will fully open if car left parked for even a few minutes. I got a shop to look at it and even got them the large ford pamphlet/ book on the vacuum / electrical system. Unfortunately they are not patient to try to really get to the root of the problem. They just want me to obtain two new door actuators which are hard to find. Oh in addition I disconnected air line to driver side actuator to check hose connection and a significant amount of water came out. So probably the driver side actuator is bad, but not positive on passenger side one. Do you agree actuators are likely cause or how water could get inside driver's side actuator? Can you suggest parts to tell them to check and if you have these parts you could sell or direct me to where I could find them?

Thanks,

Robert

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Hello Robert -

Several blog replies have been posted here regarding vacuum leaks and they all have similar information. Vacuum leaks can be located anywhere that the vacuum is routed and the total amount of loss will be the sum of all of the leaks that are found. We only recommend performing proper diagnosis to repair these systems. Without diagnosing you can consider every component that is shown in your shop manual a suspect. The vacuum motors (actuators) can very easily be tested for leaks and determined absolutely without doubt if they are leaking or not but unfortunately you have described the technicians that work on your car as impatient which is incompetence in my opinion. To sum up, I can sit here and type out ALL of the other parts that you have not "tried out" as culprits but that would be only guessing and a disservice to you.

We usually do stock most of the parts needed to repair these vacuum systems. Some components can also be successfully repaired in our shop.

The one possible way that water can be inside the lines etc. is that a sizable vacuum leak or leaks has the outside air entering the components and is condensing on the walls of the interior where the vacuum is routed. This of course is only a theory.

Although the headlamp door actuators are very popular leak areas I do hope that someone will diagnose and qualify them as faulty before you order replacement parts. As our customer we can offer to properly test any parts for you that are sent to us if you are unable to receive that service where you are located. Please check with George before sending us any parts for inspection.

Sincerely,

Bill

October 12, 2016

1963 Continental Acceleration Problems

Hi Bill,

I have a 1963 Lincoln Continental and having some acceleration problems. All started when my mechanical fuel pump died and installed an electric Carter pump, still no good. Then my mechanic thought my original carb was the problem (old and tired), so I installed an Edelbrock 750 with electric choke. Still ran the same, very sluggish and a hesitation during acceleration and an occasional backfire under load. Then thought it might ignition, so removed the points to a Crane points conversion kit. Then finally installed a MSD pro billet with vacuum advance. In the meantime I upgraded the battery cables, spark plug leads, coil and starter motor cable. The car is still doing it.

What can I look at next as I am running out of patience. Your help will be grateful.

Regards,

Angelo

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Hi Angelo -

I am not sure of the performance and/or quality of the aftermarket parts that you have installed but if you and your mechanic are confident that the fuel and ignition are more than sufficient, please have your mechanic carefully read the enclosed blog question and reply from the Lincoln Land Blog of January 2013. Does this information sound like your issue? Let us know the results.
Sincerely,

Bill

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January 21, 2013

1965 Continental Is Sluggish

Hi Bill,

I have been working on a customers 65 Continental for a couple of months now. He brought it to me saying it shut off on him one day and when he started it back up it was running rough and had little power. I have have been through this thing in and out, top and bottom. Did all the usual diagnosis stuff and have changed parts as I have found defects. The car was running rough at idle and would break up real bad when trying to accelerate, popping back back through the carburetor and smelling very rich. The first thing I did was rebuild the distributor, it wasn't advancing and the plate was very corroded. That didn't help at all. I pulled the timing cover to check the chain and marks and that was fine so I pulled the intake and discovered the lifters were seizing in the bores. I cleaned the bores, installed a new camshaft, lifters and timing chain set. While I had it that far down I sent the heads to the machine shop and 500 bucks later they were fixed with a few valves and all new springs. All the rockers are free and pushrods not bent. After all that the car idles as smooth as a brand new car, but still have no power and can barely accelerate. New coil, 12 volts to the coil, new cap and rotor, timing set at 10 degrees ( have tried it from 6 to 16 degrees), 5-6psi fuel pressure at the carb, new helper fuel pump near the tank, compression is 130-140 on every cylinder after warm-up. After all this the car still has very little power, breaks up during acceleration and is still slightly popping through the carburetor at WOT. You can see a mist of fuel with a flashlight coming out of the top of the carb while power breaking it at half throttle. I've hit a brick wall with this one, its the first 430 Ive ever worked on, I'm too far in it to stop now. Any ideas or advice? Thanks so much.

Andy

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Greetings Andy -

After reviewing your letter several times and reading what you have done so far with this engine and assuming that all of your work has been done correctly as per the engine's specifications etc. I can offer the following. The factory exhaust systems on these engines use a " double wall" exhaust pipe. These of course are the pipes that bolt up to the exhaust manifolds and continue on to the next flange connection rearward. It is not unheard of for the inner pipe to develop a separation in such a way as to severely seal up the exhaust on one side enough to cause the symptoms that you are describing. When this occurs the outer wall remains intact and no exhaust leak is heard. Because of the exhaust heat factor this final "plug up" can take place in a very short period of time as your customer has described to you. If the vehicle has the original style pipes on it you should remove them for a careful internal inspection.

Two other items to be aware of when tuning or servicing this era of engine are...The damper pulley on the crankshaft can separate from the rubber damper material and give you an incorrect timing reading. These are available rebuilt. The second is that the vacuum advance units on the distributor are well known to seize or rupture and become inoperative. These are available new.

I hope that the above helps you and I would ask you to let us know here at Lincoln Land what you find.

Sincerely,

Bill

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January 30, 2013

1965 Continental Is Sluggish - Update

Bill I can't thank you enough for the advice, I unbolted the exhaust just before the muffler's and sure enough the passenger side exhaust pipe was clogged shut. I ran 2 new pipes from the manifolds to the mufflers and the car runs perfect!! I've run into double walled exhaust pipe problems before but 99% of those cases were on Honda's. I had no idea these Lincolns were manufactured with it and probably never would have checked it.

Thanks again,

Andy.


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Hi Bill,

Thank you for your advice, being way over here in Australia it is a bit hard to find anyone with any experience at all with these cars. They have their querks and I guess that's part of the reason we love them! I think your blog from Jan 2013 is quite interesting in relation to my car. I had the exhaust built new but(there's always a but) the exhaust guy couldn't undo the bolts on the end of the headers and was worried about snapping them of if he applied too much force, so he left about 3 foot of original pipe and then welded a flange and continued with new pipe. So my problem could may aswell lie there.

Can I also ask, he recommended only using two mufflers before the diff so that they would run hotter and wont collect any water in them due to the fact that as we don't use these cars all too often enough, and thus avoid any rusting away in the muffler.

I forgot to mention last time that the car ran beautiful at idle and cruising at slow speeds runs great, and on the open freeway at about 60 mile/hr runs even better(there's not enough road ha ha) its just that acceleration problem I cant handle. I tell you that I wont rest til I fix that gremlin in there. Cheers again Bill.

Regards,

Angelo

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Angelo -

Everyone has their own opinion and there is plenty to read on the internet regarding exhaust systems. I personally only go with all of the original components on my systems because I enjoy the "Lincoln Quietness" of the factory installations. The available quality (and of course more costly) stainless steel components that are available do not rust out. Be advised however that the cheaper stainless exhaust parts are usually NOT of the optimum quality in all respects. In the end it is up to you according to your wants, needs and affordability. We wish you luck in diagnosing your recent engine issues.

Sincerely,

Bill

October 4, 2016

1970 Continental Starting Issues

Bill -

My 1970 Lincoln Town Car ("Ivy") with 58K miles has problems starting. My mechanic put in a new battery and rebuilt the starter. The car starts well, but when you shut it off after it's been running for 5-10 min, it doesn't always start again; it cranks and cranks. It needs to sit for about 10 min, and then it will start. The mechanic said it needs to cool down, but he can't pinpoint what's causing this malfunction. Any advice?

Thanks,

Tom

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Hi Tom -

After reading your problem description without knowing any tune up maintenance history on your 1970 Lincoln there are a few items that come to mind. The basic tune up components must be in good shape and properly adjusted exactly as required per the shop manual by a technician who is very familiar with this era of ignition systems. These tune up components are of course the engine ignition timing, ignition points and condenser, distributor cap and rotor, high tension wiring and spark plugs etc. After running a cold engine for ten minutes the carburetor choke MUST be moving to the wide open position as the engine warms up and the carburetor should not be flooding the intake manifold with any fuel after engine shut down. A hot flooded engine will most certainly not start easily until that excess fuel is allowed to evaporate somewhat. An engine that has been fuel flooding could also have blackened spark plugs causing a further poor spark condition. If the carburetor is NOT flooding the intake manifold after turning the engine off and you have no record of the tune up history as mentioned above I would have a tune up performed asap to assure that the engine is receiving a strong spark at the spark plugs. No engine that is in good tune "needs to cool down" in order to re start unless it has a serious cooling system failure and has been operated while overheated. Show the above to your mechanic and let us know the outcome. If all of the above is in good order and you still have starting issues let us know and we will proceed further.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 22, 2016

1969 Mark III - New Owner Questions

Hi Bill -

Just had my 1969 Mark III imported and am starting to address a few issues.

Sent for a wiring manual from one of your competitors, but whilst using it found the wire colour references to be wrong??

To be sure could you tell me what the three wire colours are to the power window safety relay. Also do you have window switches?

Thanks,

John
Liverpool
England

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Hello John -

Congratulations on your recent Mark III purchase! Great car.

The wire colors at the Power Window Safety Relay in my wiring book shows that they should be Blue/Red/and Yellow. The plug itself is Red. It also has a separate Black ground wire. Some wiring diagrams are incorrect from FoMoCo. The relay is located on the firewall behind the left (drivers side) valve cover. The wire colors as mentioned above could be slightly different but the plug connector is Red.

We usually have stock of new power window switches on hand and we also can offer a rebuild service to any switches that are faulty and re-buildable. The best way to go is to contact us when you find out what you need for availability and prices etc.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 9, 2016

1969 Mark III Headlight Issues

Hey Bill,

Greetings from east Texas. Just when I think everything is working correctly a snake raises it's head. On our Mark III, I installed a NOS headlight switch (w auto/dim). The headlights had been flashing off and on after 5 minutes of driving. The new switch cured my flashing headlights. Now after 5 minutes of driving the dash lights and park lamps/tail lamps go to flashing. This has never happened before. The auto/dim feature also quit working. This had never been a problem before. Auto dimmer had always worked perfectly. What the heck is it NOW? PS, I just bought a bucket list car, a 69 Marquis convertible. Dark Orchid and white. It's a solid scab now but in my hands she'll return to glory. Does Chris have anything on hand for a 69 Marquis?

Patrick

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Greetings Patrick -

Flashing headlamps is usually caused by a fatigued circuit breaker within the headlamp switch and /or upgraded heavy power draw headlamps. The new switch has evidently corrected that issue but these switches also have another breaker inside for the park , tail lamps and dash lights. The dash lights also have a 4 amp fuse to protect that circuit separately. Because the new switch has corrected the first issue it would appear to me that the NEW switch is faulty or a wiring problem to the park lamps and the Automatic Headlamp Dimmer was created somehow during the new switch installation. The switch installation and wiring should be examined and if nothing is visible the old switch could be plugged in to see if the problem reverses back to the original headlamp problem and the new park lamp problem disappears. If the installer was inexperienced, the dash light dimmer rheostat area at the switch possibly could have been damaged etc. I am assuming that the wiring at the tail lamps, park lamps and license plate lamp. have NOT recently been disturbed and are now shorted out. Please let us know what you find out with this interesting event.

That 1969 Mercury sounds beautiful - but it's going to be a hard one to find parts for, feel free to check with us as you needs parts - we may be able to point in the right direction.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Thank you Bill,

I have the original FOMOCO bulbs in the headlights. Nothing disturbed or altered in my Mark III. NO whack job on any of the wiring or plugs, all factory original. I installed the switch with the battery disconnected. The auto dim no longer worked after I installed the switch. I had no issues with the dash/tail/park lamps until a year later now. I have driven the Mark at night and they were not flashing until last night. I thought for the last year I could deal with the issue of a non functioning auto dim even though I'm a perfectionist. Can I examine this circuit breaker within the switch ? I am extremely mechanical.

My best to ya'll in Florida! It's still 100 degrees and muggy here in East Texas.

Patrick

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Patrick -

For starters - we would suggest swapping back to your old Switch and seeing if your issues remain the same.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill -

Do you guys have a used switch for the Mark III? I plugged my old switch in and the dash lights work but the headlights flash again, the auto dim works! I called my engineer
buddy in Kilgore and he told me he thought if I added relays it would take the load off the switch. I have no idea what that is all about but had to run that by you guys. My GAWD I want to pull my hair out. I love my Mark III but sometimes.

Pat

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Hi Pat -

I'm glad that you decided to follow the advice on our Blog to swap in your old headlamp switch as a test. You have now proved that both of your switches are evidently faulty but in different ways as I suspected. Your engineer friend is correct in that adding relays will transfer the headlamp load away from the switch and its circuit breaker to a relay with a separate fused battery source. The headlamp switch circuit breaker would then only need to operate the lower amperage draw relays instead of the higher draw headlamps. These relays are added usually to vehicles that have had higher amperage draw headlamps installed in place of the original seamed beams. In your case however the success of adding relays depends on how much your breaker has deteriorated inside your switch. This of course we do not know. Also for your information I have seen a poor connection at a headlamp switch pin become so hot that the heat was transferred to the breaker inside and was enough to open the circuit. This is always easily discovered because of the visible melted plastic at the switch electrical plug. Show all of the above information to your friend to see if he agrees.

Headlamp relay harnesses with relays and the necessary fuses or breakers are available in kit form from many aftermarket headlamp suppliers or are improvised on site as necessary by local competent electrical shops or the vehicles owners.

Headlight Switches with the Autodim feature have to be sent into us for Rebuild - please contact us to make those arrangements.

Sincerely,

Bill

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