July 29, 2015

1970 Mark III New Owner Problems...

Good Morning from Arizona:

I recently purchased this vehicle from a "dealer" in Phoenix. Even though the auto has low mileage, 56,500 miles, it has caused me a lot of problems. Before purchasing the vehicle, the dealer showed me many repairs that was made on the vehicle. It has an electronic ignition system installed as well as other repairs on the vacuum system. Left headlight will not close for example, the A/C does not work but the blower motor does. The biggest problem is the vehicle will not go into second gear! The Ford dealer in Starr Valley, AZ says it is the "governor" but will not be able to repair it as there are no parts available for it! I find that hard to believe! So, the vehicle sits and has been for the past four months at the dealer. Can you advise me if there is something else that needs to be considered or what is your recommendation! The other items can wait but without the ability to shift, the vehicle is unsafe to drive.

Regards,

Rance

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Hi Rance -

The C6 transmission in your newly purchased Mark III is one of the best automatic transmissions ever built. The further good news is that we at Lincoln Land have many good used parts and repair kits available for this transmission. Many transmission parts suppliers carry gaskets and general maintenance and wear items as well. Unfortunately though, you may have purchased this car a little hastily. You seem to now own a vehicle that you cannot even begin driving at this time because of an existing transmission issue and with my experience on collector cars, more repair surprises may be in your future.

There is good news though for your transmission problem. The greater Phoenix AZ area will have many skilled old school transmission technicians on staff with C6 experience who will be pleased to properly diagnose your problem and repair that transmission. You will need to do some very careful shopping and choose wisely. All of your other Mark III issues will prove equally frustrating however if you are not prepared or able to perform your own repairs and do plenty of reading of the proper shop manuals.

If all of this is new to you and you do plan to keep and drive this vehicle, the best advice that I can give you at this time is to join the national "Lincoln Continental and Owners Club". You can then contact other Lincoln owners in your locality and learn from them where the best capable repair shops are located in your immediate area for this car. We will be here for you when you need any parts and manuals etc. if you need them.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 28, 2015

1968 Continental Battery Drain

Bill,

I've got an all original 68 Continental with a 462. I'm having similar issues as this guy

http://www.lincolnlandinc.com/blog/2015/03/1963_continental_battery_drain.html


Car runs and drives great. BUT even with a brand new battery and voltage regulator the car will die even while running if I over use power windows, horn, or seats.

Example, brand new battery put on yesterday. Started and stopped several times while taking it to dinner. Then this morning the car was died so I jump the car and drive it around, running great. Then I park the car in driveway and roll up the windows before shutting car off I begin to roll up windows. Rolls up fine at first but then they start slowing down until the car dies altogether.

Something seems to be draining the battery while it runs or sits. Alternator test shows the alternator to be good but I'm curious if moving to a self regulated alternator would be the trick? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Pics of my baby blue attached.

Thanks!!

Jason

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Greetings Jason -

From the information that you have provided, I can only guess that you have a charging problem or a wiring problem. You do not state how the alternator was tested or the actual charging voltage at the battery from the alternator during these tests. Meaningful diagnosis by a competent automotive electrical shop with the correct wiring diagram may be necessary.

Your link to a previous post also states an electrical problem but without the engine stalling due to loss of voltage that you seem to be experiencing. I asked that poster in my reply to him in the link to let us know what he finds but he never shared those results with us so we will never know.

You also state that "tests show the alternator to be good" and then you ask if a different design alternator will correct your problems. I do not understand your reasoning when you ask that if replacing a good working charging design with another design will correct your issues. The original 1968 charging system was quite adequate........unless you have some sort of added on high draw electrical equipment, missing ground wires or wrongly arranged original wiring that you are not revealing to us, proper diagnosis in a logical sequence will required.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 21, 2015

1962 Continental Horn Issues

Hi Bill,

I have a 62 Continental. The horn does not work. I have replaced the contact brush in the steering column. When I short that brush to ground I hear the relay click. When connect the horns to battery directly they sound off.

Where is the 1)horn relay and 2) breaker and how do I remove them? Are they available; if so how much?

Thank you for your time in this matter


Rick

PS: I see the horn breaker is on the primary side of the relay so I guess it looks like the relay is toast. Where is it? How do I remove? How much? Thanks again

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Greetings Rick -

The horn relay along with the circuit breaker should be located in the Power Box on the rt. side fire wall on the engine side under the hood. It is unfortunately a cramped location to work in. If you hear a click when you press the horn ring then the relay is a good starting point for diagnosis. An excellent drawing of the circuit and wire colors is shown on page 10-68 in the 1961 Lincoln Shop Manual. If you jump the black /yellow wire to the black wire at the relay, The horns should sound if the relay is receiving power from the breaker and if a click is heard inside the relay when you press the horn ring the relay is very likely faulty internally. These parts are removed by observing and removing their mounting fasteners and wiring connectors. Disconnect the battery first as a precaution. George will include a copy of the page 10-68 along with availability and prices of these two parts in our reply. Good luck with an easy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 13, 2015

1977 Mark V Questions & Update

Bill,

I've never seen somebody so devoted to helping others with their passion. I truly love my Mark V and I'm glad to read so many helpful comments posted on your blog! You're helping to keep these treasures rolling and all of us grinning.

Here's my question:

The heat setting of my Mark's A.T.C. doesn't give me any blower function. I get great heat in defog but the fan shuts off only in Heat.

Where is the location of the C.E.L.O. on the 1977 Mark V with 7.5L? What other functions does this switch provide?

I also see some vacuum hoses going into what look like two ported vacuum switches, one directly on top of the thermostat housing and the other in front of that, by the distributor. What are the functions of those P.V.S.' as well?

Dack

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Hi Dack -

We are pleased that you enjoy the blog but it is more than just a passing interest for me. The blog is available for our already loyal customers and to further promote Lincoln Land in a way to develop our customer base.

The cold engine blower lockout switch on your 1977 MkV with the 460 cid engine is located on the intake manifold ahead of the carburetor. It is integral with the temperature switch. The plug is D shaped and the wire for the blower delay portion is yellow with a white stripe. If you have correctly diagnosed this as your problem, great ....but we find that this switch is rarely ever the cause of " loss of blower" in the Heat position with a warm engine. If you are doing your own repairs and wish to diagnose this and learn about other engine controls such as the engine vacuum controls, a proper FoMoCo shop manual is a must as the vacuum controls can be confusing with the many designs during the model year. The manual explains many of these questions at length. Contact us if you need further information on your blower issue or if you would need any manuals.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill,

I appreciate your detailed response. I couldn't find this information anywhere on the Internet!

I've found the switch and it is functional. I've narrowed it down to the fact that there is low voltage to the primary side of the EVR solenoid. If I short the wires on the secondary side, the blower and ATC function normally! The Ford wiring diagrams sure don't make it very easy to trace but it can be done in time.

Thanks!

Dack

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Dack -

It sounds like you are on the right track now due to the correct diagnosis on your part. We of course have the necessary repair parts for you when you need them.

Bill

July 1, 2015

1966 Continental Brake Light Issue

Hi Bill,

I love your blog! You are so thorough in explaining your answers to the many varied questions. Now I have one I hope you can help me with.

I have a 66 Continental Convertible that has a weird brake light problem. It seems that the passenger side brake light doesn't light at the same brake pedal pressure as the brake light for the driver's side. A somewhat light pressure on the brake pedal that is enough to brake the car to a stop from a slow to moderate speed brings on the driver side brake lights, but the passenger side brake lights only light when a very firm pedal pressure is applied. All the turn signals work properly, as do the tail lights.

Looking at the electrical drawings, it seems like there is only one brake light switch circuit (unless there has been some undocumented modifications,during production or by an owner over the years).

Thanks in advance for any suggestions of things for me to check.

Robert

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Hi Robert -

Sounds like News of the Weird! Sometimes though it doesn't take too much to upset a circuit. You are correct, more brake pressure can't send more voltage to the right brake lights. Two possibilities come to mind though. First make sure that all of the brake lights are on and have the same brightness when they DO work. The bulbs on one side may be incorrect for the car. Second there may be a bad ground at the right side bulb location or a bad connection at any switch or relay that leads to the right brake lights. The circuit for the turn signals, four way flashers and brake lights on the 1966 Lincoln is complicated and can be difficult to diagnose. You could check another possibility by applying the brakes slowly and have a helper tell you when the left side illuminates. At this point stop the pressure on the pedal with the left side on and wiggle the turn signal lever in the center ( neutral ) position area and have your helper observe for the right side to light up. If it does, the turn signal switch could be internally faulty or if you have the "tilt wheel" option it could be out of adjustment. When diagnosing it is important to concentrate mostly on the wiring for the right side and watch for some previous wiring repair that could be defective. All connections and grounds can be suspect. It is very good that you have the wiring diagram indicating the wire colors. I hope that these suggestions help to lead you to a quick repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

June 30, 2015

1963 AC Evaporator Drain & Follow Up

Good morning Bill -

Thank you for all the advice you provide to us Lincoln car owners. I have also had great help from your sales staff when purchasing replacement parts and assistance with installation advice.

My short question is "where is the AC evaporator drain located on my '63 sedan?"

The long part stems from nearing the end of our family 2500 mile road trip to the 2015 Eastern National meet. We had been using the AC most of the trip without issue. Good cold air (converted to 134). Passing through Ohio, it was quite stormy, humid but not terribly hot (around 80). AC was started early in the day around 10 AM. About 1 hour later, I noticed condensation around the AC vents, then around the radio selector keys. That afternoon, there was a cool mist vapor which started coming out of the AC vents. I quickly turned off the AC which stopped the blower and the vapor stopped. Tried it again 5 minutes later and even my 6 year old in the back seat noticed the "smoke". I was trying to postulate as to the cause. Next day I ran AC at 2/3 without further issue.

Fast forward to the question. Could the evaporator drain be plugged allowing water to back up? I don't recall ever seeing a puddle of water under the car like my modern vehicles do when running the AC. I have NOT seen water spilling into the interior of the car.

Thank you in advance.

Phil

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Hello Phil -

We are pleased that you are happy with our service here at Lincoln Land. Be assured also that our staff is pleased to have you as a loyal customer.

The condensate drain on your 63 should be found behind the engine at the extreme lower firewall area. It will be under the evaporator area and may not be easy to see immediately. If the a/c has been operating and cooling properly for awhile especially in the Fresh position with a hot humid outside condition some condensate should be seen draining from this area under the car and onto the ground. The dripping condensate will help you locate the drain for cleaning any partial clogs. If the a/c is operating properly and no draining at all is noticed you will need to locate and clean the drain.

Usually any vapor ( along with a slight coolant odor ) that is seen exiting into the passenger area though is indicative of a heater core leak . Temporarily bypassing the heater core and driving the car as usual will prove or disprove this possibility. On a 63 though, the evaporator is quite close to the ducts and therefore some vapor and condensing may be seen on the a/c outlet grille chrome under conditions of high humidity. However, there is another possibility that can occur to all a/c systems. The evaporator can freeze up into a block of ice with some droplets carried off into the air stream. This is usually followed by a drop in blower volume and a rise in cooling air temperature at the vents. If this freezing is in fact happening, a large amount of condensate will be seen on the ground after the engine is shut off and the car sits for a while. This can happen on your Lincoln if the programmable thermostatic switch is faulty, out of adjustment or bypassed because of a control switch failure etc. You can de-ice the evaporator ( if this icing is happening ) while driving by selecting Heat or Vent control position with the blower on high speed. This will turn off the compressor and yet allow the blower to melt any ice that is present. The 63 Shop Manual contains the vacuum and electrical diagrams along with some photos. Some skills and understanding of the operation are necessary in order to diagnose and correctly pinpoint a possible problem. I would advise you to do the above simple observation tests before condemning any component. I hope that this helps you.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill,

You are a Gentleman and a Scholar!!

Thank you for your detailed answer. It's all starting to make sense now. All data seems to point toward an iced over evaporator core.

Sincerely,

Phil

June 29, 2015

1971 Mark III AC Questions

Bill,

I have recently acquired a 1971 Mark III with 54,000 original miles, car is in very good condition overall. AC was blowing hot air. Compressor wire was disconnected when I got it. I reconnected wiring and compressor engages and is working as it should. I put the system under vacuum and it held vacuum for 90 minutes without dropping. So I went ahead and purged out all old R-12 that may have remained and put adapters on for 134a refrigerant. Added oil and then the proper amount of 134a to the system. Car was then blowing about 42 degrees out of vents with AC on and I was very happy. Two days later, I take it for a ride and notice what looks to be smoke/fog coming out of defroster vents inside car (AC was not on at this time). I pull over and look under the hood and there is no smoke or problems under hood. No smell of smoke in the car either. So, I think back to recent AC work and turn on AC and it is blowing hot. A leak detector was used and did alarm a bit when stuck into the defroster vents inside the car, this was a week after the AC/smoke visible in defroster vent incident.

With the limited information provided, does this seem like an evaporator leak? Is the replacement of the evaporator a tough job? Do you remove the evaporator from under the hood area or do you have to get at it from inside the car as well? Any guidance you can provide would be appreciated.

Thank you

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Greetings -

Congratulations on your recent purchase of the 71 Mark III. They are great cars to have and they are well liked by all car collectors. We look forward to helping you as our customer with repair parts as necessary to help you maintain it in good condition.

The symptom that you describe with the smoke and fog emitting from the heat/ac ducting is a common description of a classic heater core leak. Tiny amounts of anti-freeze can leak onto the hot heater core fins and then become steam. A leak in the core can usually be proven by disconnecting the heater hoses at the core and joining them together. If after driving the car a few days with the core bypassed the fog is gone, reconnect it and observe for the fog to reappear. The refrigeration system will not emit steam or fog if it develops a r134 leak. I can't tell if the charge is actually lost of course because you may not have checked the pressure in the system to find out. Hot air discharge when cool air is needed could also be a control problem.

To sum this up for you it does sound that the heater core is leaking and also that the refrigeration system has lost the charge of r134. If the a/c has indeed lost its charge I would not be at all surprised because when you purchased the car the compressor was disconnected and the system was empty. This is strong evidence of a previous undiagnosed leak. The copper evaporator coils on the Mark IIIs have proven very durable in the past, therefore the whole system should be leak tested carefully to prove a suspected leak or leaks to avoid replacing good components. A system that holds vacuum for a period of time is not absolute proof that a leak does not exist. We test for refrigerant leaks with nitrogen pressure at 120 lbs psi and if there is a drop in pressure after a good period of time, the remaining pressure can then be used to pinpoint the culprit. The heater core and evaporator core are both removed from under the hood as per the Factory Shop Manual. The evaporator will have two fasteners under the dash as well. We have new heater cores available and good used evaporators available for you as required.

Sincerely,

Bill

June 22, 2015

1964 Continental Power Steering Issues & Follow Up

Hey Bill,

I recently took my '64 Continental into a local shop for some brake issues. Those were all fixed, but while in the shop I was told the power steering lines were rotting, leaking and needed to be replaced.

I went ahead and had them do that, but then the car started making loud noises when steering. The shop claimed it was air in the hoses, but they were not able to rectify that. Ultimately, they determined that the power steering pump was bad and needed to be rebuilt as well. They quoted me $1000 to do that job, on top of what I've already had to pay for new hoses.

The car didn't have any power steering issues before I took it in, so now I'm suspect of the whole situation. I was being pressured into getting the power steering pump rebuilt because they said you can't find those for sale and if I let the old one go much longer, I
won't be able to rebuild it at all. I didn't like the pressure, so I just picked up the car and decided not to address the issue at that shop. But now I have a really loud noise from the steering and I guess I need to get that pump fixed somehow. What should I expect to have a pump rebuilt at another shop? Is $1000 the right range? Do I really have to rebuild this one or can those be found for sale out in the market?

Help!

Mercedes

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Mercedes -

While we feel sorry for you, we are well aware that most shops know absolutely nothing about these pumps and P.S. systems, and your shop could be one of them.

We have no idea what else they may have done to it and we also don't know if they allowed some debris into the lines, or if the hoses that they replaced are incorrect sizes or what fluid or additive were used.

You may want to consider talking the car to another shop for them to try to bleed the system using correct fluid and pressure test it as per the special correct shown system pressures in the Lincoln Factory Shop Manual.

If you are advised that his pump is bad, you can send it to us for inspection and we can advise you on what parts you need. There would be no charge for this other than the cost of shipping.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hey Bill,

Thanks so much for the advice.

I will contact another shop and see if they are able to rectify the issue through bleeding and proper fluids/pressure. If this pump ends up being bad, I'll send it your way for inspection.

Thanks again!!

Mercedes

Mercedes

1979 Town Coupe Issues

Hey Bill,

I just bought a 1979 Lincoln Continental Town Coupe and am happy to say that I have fallen in love with it. Unfortunately I have developed a slight issue that only occurs in the right conditions. When I got it, I drove it an hour back and have since taken it to places close by with no problems! I had to take it deeper in the cities earlier today to go meet up with someone and the speeds were fairly slow most of the way with heavy traffic and a lot of idling. I got to my destination just fine but when I went out to leave it wouldn't start! So I popped the hood and let the engine cool as it seemed very hot and after 10 minutes it fired back up. I backed out of my spot and put it in drive, and as soon as I hit the gas it quit again, like someone just turned the key off, but it fired back up and I was on my way again. Then getting onto the highway about 5 miles from where I started I got up to 50mph and it almost died when shifting but I caught it fast enough and kept going, and after getting enough air to cool down again it ran fine. So I was wondering what you might think? I was thinking maybe the coil pack or the distributor, maybe the duraspark because I heard that is a common problem when hot. Although it has only done it this one time, I'm worried it may start occurring earlier and I want to jump the gun on it.

Thanks a Bunch!

Sam

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Sam -

Yes, could be Duraspark, or could be carburetor, or fuel delivery or could be overheating etc. How are the spark plugs and high tension wiring? You have only recently purchased this vehicle and probably have no real detailed knowledge of its maintenance history. A 36 year old car of any brand can develop many unknown and common tune up issues over the years. It appears that on scene diagnosis is in your future by someone who is familiar with the fuel and ignition electronics in your 1979 Town Car. I am sorry that I cannot pinpoint your issue or issues from here without any diagnosis.

Sincerely,

Bill

1975 Mark IV Blower Motor Cover Removal

Good afternoon guys -

I have a quick question about removing the blower motor lower cover. There is a screw near the firewall toward the driver side. It is virtually impossible to reach due to the ambient air hose fitting serving the sensor. I can loosen the screw by snaking a socket extension up there, but I'm worried I won't be able to get it started back when replacing the cover due to the angle. Is there a trick to this? In other words, can the fitting be removed or loosened from the engine side to get it out of the way? As you all know, the manuals are a little lacking in information on details like this.

Thanks!!

Jim

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Hello Jim -

You are correct. Sometimes the manuals are a little sparse in certain areas. The removal section the in Mark IV section does not show the removal for the blower motor in the Factory Service manual but the Thunderbird section on page 36-45-11 has a very clear step by step procedure that should help you. The Tbird and Mark uses the same HVAC units. Figure 15 on page 36-45 16 has a great drawing of the removal and installation fasteners. I notice that the lower tabs on the lower housing at the firewall are open slotted so that complete removal of the two screws may not necessary. We do not have problems with this procedure but we do find that in some cases we need to carefully and cleverly configure our extensions and sockets etc. in order to reach some areas. If you do not have these important sections in your manual, contact George at our office and he will look after this for you. Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Bill

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