April 9, 2018

1978 Continental "Buzzing" Under Dash

Bill,

I get a fairly loud intermittent "buzzing" noise coming from underneath the dash after the vehicle has been sitting in the sun for a while, it also occurs when I first start the car up, even in the garage, but only lasts for a very short period of time.

Regards,

Bruce

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Greetings Bruce -

Not being there to hear that noise it is difficult to point a finger at the cause. Someone needs to step out of the car when the noise is sounding to make sure that is actually coming from under the dash. There are so many tones to imagine but I can suggest that you check the transmission fluid level as some C6 transmissions will buzz in neutral with the engine running if they are low on ATF. The transmission fluid must checked with the engine running.

Sincerely,

Bill

In The Market For A Mark III....

Hello Bill -

I am looking at buying a 69-71 Mark III and am wondering if you might suggest which, in your opinion is the best year for this car. I owned a 63 continental convertible years ago and loved that car and know all its quirks. Are earlier models better without any emissions equipment? Are climate control systems about the same in each? Thank you, so glad to find your website.

Bret

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Hi Bret -

There are differences in the 69-71 Mark IIIs, but with any car from this bygone era, condition and odometer reading should be a strong factor as well. The 69's have the much nicer unique heavier wheel covers and the a/c outlets are of a higher quality eye appealing design and material. The 69 was the last year for the sometimes troublesome crankshaft driven power steering pump as opposed to the corporate belt driven units. The a/c was mostly the same on all three years but a/c was optional on the 69's. Most owners ordered the Automatic Climate Control option that proved to be a great operating unit. Most of these a/c units do require maintenance and repair occasionally as does the a/c on all other vehicles. As far as the emission systems go the later ones with the pump did not seem to cause many problems but some emission systems have been removed from the 70/71 Marks that we see today. Outside there are also many very small differences but easiest to see is that the 70/71 has a longer hood to accommodate the hidden windshield wiper blades. Of these three years of Marks there are definitely no bad years. They are all great Continentals. Choosing however really boils down to your own personal desires. Good luck with your search!

Sincerely,

Bill

April 3, 2018

1979 Mark Fans Speed Questions

Bill -

The fan speed control works on all speeds except when you select heat then the fan does not come on at all also air is only Luke warm on economic vent or hi love. Also mode selector is very stiff to Operate. Thank yo,u have purchased from you in the past - you guys are great! I do have the Factory Shop Manuals.

Michael

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Hi Michael -

The inoperative blower in the " HEAT " mode sounds very likely to be the very popular failure of the EVR relay ("Electro Vacuum Relay").

The EVR operation is explained on page 36-74-2 of your FoMoCo factory manual. The wiring diagram is on page 36-74-5 and the location drawing is on page 36-74-9. We can usually rebuild these if they prove faulty or replace with a good used one. Have this item diagnosed and let us know what you may need.

Sincerely,

Bill

1972 Mark IV - AC Questions

Hello Bill,

I have a 72 Mark IV. The AC is acting up since I bought it. Sometimes it works great, others it goes on and off like it's reached temp, then decides it hasn't. I'm not sure where to start. It appears as thought the compressor and associated units are working properly, I suspect it's just not getting accurate input from the controller and/or any thermostats that regulate the system. What's the most common issue and where would I start?

Thanks in advance,

Michael

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Greetings Michael -

The Automatic Climate Control systems of this era are very complicated and do require much patience and a very good understanding of how they operate in order to repair it yourself.

You do not provide very much information (for me to work with) as to what your Mark IV's ATC is or is not doing. If you have the correct FoMoCo factory manuals you should however begin by reading them carefully and understanding how the system operates. Next you can perform the diagnosis procedures that are shown in the Manual. Many vehicles that we service at Lincoln Land have two or more issues. Since you ask, I will list some of the common Control issues that we see and repair here at our shop. Keep in mind that the refrigeration section is of course separate from the ATC control system and could also be inoperative or weak. Be advised however that there really is no single item that is a more common fail item than the others. When you can provide more information for us we may be able to lead you much closer to the problem area or areas.

ATC Box (internally)
Range Relay
High Blower Relay
Blower Motor
Blower Motor Resistor
Main Control Switch
Sensor String
Any vacuum motor (that operate the mode doors) and the blend door
Poor wire contacts or burnt wires connections at certain circuits

If the ATC system has been tampered with or altered previously, It will need to be restored in order to diagnose properly. We have the ability to supply or service most faulty items that you prove to be faulty. If there are certain parts that you are unable to test, we can offer to test them here if you wish. Good luck to you with the testing and a speedy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 12, 2018

1979 Mark V AC Servo Vacuum Motor Questions

Hi Bill -

Purchased a plastic manifold from you, trying to solve hot water valve issue, long and short of it , I believe my problem is the the vacuum motor, it will not pull the little cable back far enough to let vacuum out of the manifold to the green black hose. Tested with another vacuum connected and it does what it is supposed to do. Big question how to remove vac motor (easily ??)

Kenny

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Hi Kenny -

If the system pulls that servo vacuum motor only with another source of vacuum, the servo may be o/k but the Climate Control Sensor may not be sending enough vacuum to the servo. What can cause this? The possibilities are......The ambient temperature is too cold and the system cannot and will not drive to the full cooling position enough to operate the water valve and recirc. door motors even if the control selector is adjusted to 65 degrees.......The ATC Sniffer Sensor above the glove box liner could be faulty or maladjusted.......or the ATC system may not be receiving enough engine vacuum because of a vacuum leak. To remove those servo assemblies along with the plastic manifold can be tricky therefore consider the above possibilities before trying to remove it as it may not be the problem.

If you have the factory shop manual the adjustment for this sniffer sensor is shown in the climate control section. They are a well known fail item. We use a hand held vacuum pump to test these control systems.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 8, 2018

1978 With Rear "Dome Lights" Stuck On.... And Responses

Bill,

I just got a Lincoln in very good condition. Recently the circular rear 'dome' lights are on and I cannot turn them off. I can turn the under dash lights off and on with the light switch but the rears stay on. Can you give me some help on these?

Jim

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Hi Jim -

Did you purchase the car with these rear lights stuck on? Have you checked in the rear seating areas for separate left and right passenger on/off switches for each rear light? Is your car the smaller Continental or the full size Town Car four door sedan or coupe? Do you have the original owners manual? If you need one, we may have one available.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill -

Thanks for the response. It is the full size Sedan (233 inches according to the manual). It also has the 460 cu in although that is irrelevant in regard to the light problem but a fun fact! They both went off when I purchased the car about a month ago. Now only the right rear stays on (and drains the battery). I do have the original owners manual. There are separate switches that I can find.

Jim

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Jim -

I assume that you have checked both of the manually operated separate switches that you have found to assure that they are both in fact switched to the off position. Your owners manual should explain the complicated courtesy light operation. If the light remains on, you will need to remove the door jamb plunger switch in the affected side and unplug the wires to see if that light then turns off. If the light goes off with that plunger switch unplugged, that switch may be faulty. If not, you can try unplugging the manual switch for that light to see if it is faulty and not turning off. If you still have no luck you will need the courtesy lights wiring diagram to understand how the system works and the possibilities that could keep the lights on. At Lincoln Land we find sometimes that previous owners have somehow made wiring changes which have caused unintended consequences. The courtesy light wiring for the late seventies Lincolns and beyond can be somewhat complicated. That is why a wiring diagram is necessary for correct and easier diagnosis.

Bill

Considering Becoming A Classic Car Owner....

Hello Bill -

Thank for a very good site. I am a Norwegian man who has a DREAM of owning an american classic full size car. I am considering Lincoln, since it seems to be nice and luxurious car.

I have a few questions if you have the time to give me some tips.

1) What should I be looking for / be aware of before buying? any typical issues I should know about?

2) How is Lincoln compared to for instance Cadillac or Buick's and Pontiac's from the same time period (late 60' to late 70' ) ? By this I mean quality, problem wise, or any other good tips.

3) If you were to choose, Mark III, IV or V...and why?

4) Fuel consumption between the Mark III, IV and V? I live in Norway, and the prices on fuel are VERY high... I am also no skilled mechanic, but I have done some work on Japanese and European cars when younger.

Yours sincerely

Stig from Norway :-)

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Greetings Stig -

Welcome to the old car lovers hobby and the desire to own one for your own pleasure.

The era of luxury vehicle that you are interested in has produced some wonderful collectible cars. Choosing one is a very personal decision and can be a difficult task. Collectible vehicles from all years and manufactures each have their own issues and disappointments for their owners to contend with. A well maintained Cadillac, Imperial or Lincoln is a joy to own but will cost money to maintain now and in the future. Older classic car parts are becoming harder to find and can be costly. There is definitely no way to choose a collectible car without some problems and disappointments down the road. The above is just the nature of this great hobby. The joy of ownership, the challenges and the wonderful new friends that you will meet can however outweigh the possible maintenance issues that you will encounter.

The best advice for you could be to make a list of your favorite desirable cars and visit the many forums and clubs on the internet. There are many clubs and forums on line for you to read up on and gather information pertaining to the vehicles that you desire.

At Lincoln Land, we stock hundreds of body and mechanical parts from the Nineteen Fifties and well in to the present century. We also have access to new recently manufactured parts for older Lincolns. We also acquire and sell many beautiful and well maintained examples of all years of Lincolns. We are very proud to have gathered a large following of very happy and satisfied customers as the owner here is a long time and dedicated Lincoln aficionado. Please let us know if we can help you locate the car of your dreams.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 6, 2018

1979 Town Coupe 400 Engine Questions

Hi Bill!

My name is Justin Lindberg. I own a beautiful 79 Town Coupe with 35K miles on it. I just cannot get it to run the way it should. When the engine is relatively cold (after warming up a 2-3 min) - the car drives wonderful. Accelerates nice and smooth, and shifts gears beautifully. There is no hesitation or anything to complain about. However - once the engine warms up (after a few minutes tops) - it becomes a different experience. It idles ok (could be a little better) but mainly - it does not accelerate with the same confidence as it does when "cold." It also hesitates and does not accelerate smoothly. It shifts harder into 2nd and 3rd. Not nice and smooth like it does "cold." I know that vacuum leaks can be an issue. But, this particular vehicle was purchased from the original owner and you can tell that the hoses are still all in the right places. Also - yes I know that the hoses are 40 years old but they truly look brand new. No cracks or anything in them, even when bent or twisted to check. So, maybe there is a leak someplace but I wouldn't suspect it yet. The fuel pump is new, and I had a guy clean up the carb and the accelerator pump was replaced. fuel coming out of the pump is clean. Fuel filter replaced and rubber fuel lines. What I want to know is - is this normal for the car to run more sluggish when warmed up? Maybe due to all of the emission control stuff and the small cam? I am thinking of replacing the cam/upgrading to new manifold and 4bbl carb. But I really don't want to do that. I would say maybe it is ignition related if the car ran bad when cold as well, but it doesn't. I have a suspicion that it is the carb not acting right. It is the stock autolite. My thoughts are replacing the autolite with a new 2bbl and keeping everything else stock. Or, going all out and doing the cam, manifold, and upgrade to 4bbl. But again, I don't really want to do that. Maybe you can recommend someone near Chicago that knows these old 400 engines on a 79?

Thanks for reading!

Justin

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Hello Justin -

It is not normal for an engine to become sluggish as it warms to operating temperature. Not being there to see what you are experiencing I can however offer the following.

Ensure that the engine is actually reaching operating temperature by checking the thermostat. Make sure that all of the tune up items are in good shape. This will include ignition timing, carburetor adjustments, spark plugs, high tension wiring, distributor cap etc. The vacuum advance and choke operation should also be tested for correct operation. All of the above along with their adjustments are explained in the factory Shop Manuals. Any failures or combination of failures of the above can cause poor hot engine performance therefore they should be addressed first.

In my opinion upgrading to performance equipment is not a good choice as it most likely will produce no difference as these engines performed perfectly with their original factory installed parts. Checking the original parts to expose problems is the best way to go. Good luck on an easy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 19, 2018

1996 Town Car Air Suspension Questions

Hi Bill,

I have a 1996 Town Car. The problem is that when I shut off the car the rear suspension lowers about 1-2 inches and holds till the next time I start the car. After starting the air pump starts and brings the car back up the same 1-2 inches and holds. Everything in the air suspension seems to work fine, no warning lights, no leaks, no codes.. When the car has a load the suspension works properly.. Any Ideas?

Sincerely,

Russell

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Greetings Russell -

If you are diagnosing correctly as per the manual with no success, some of these air spring leaks can be difficult and tricky to locate. One possibility is that the air springs have developed some very fine cracks that leak down somewhat, lower the rear suspension and then seal up tight when the vehicle lowers. This may be seen with a very close careful inspection with the car on a frame lift and the switch turned off inside the trunk. With this inspection the rubber bags will be stretched and small cracks will become visible. If this is so, these tiny leaks will worsen and over work the pump to a point of failure. Vehicles of this vintage that have not had new bags installed are usually overdue at this time. Good luck with a speedy diagnoses. We do have quality replacement bags available if needed.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 8, 2018

1978 Mark High Beams Stay On

Hey Bill,

My question to you is that the high beams are staying on, no matter what I do they will not turn off, I have tested the switch on the floor and it's good. It has the auto feature for the lights, and the switch function is good and tight. Is there something I am missing?

Thanks,

Jon

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Hello Jon,

Some of these " Autolamp " systems can be difficult to diagnose without the Factory Shop manual and wiring diagram as they use relays and amplifiers that can fail. Have you tried turning off the Autodim and the Autolight tabs at the main headlamp switch on the dash to find out if the headlamps operate properly in the manual position? When you tested the foot switch did you do a continuity test in all positions? We have seen these switches lock up and seize on many vehicles. In any case and because you are a parts customer at Lincolnland I will ask George to send you copies of the necessary " Autolamp " section from the FoMoCo service manual. You will then see where the 4 amp inline fuse is located above the dimmer switch and be able to check if any critical components are unplugged etc. This section should also offer diagnostic procedures.

Sincerely,

Bill

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