August 16, 2017

79 Stalls Out - Carb Issues

Hi Bill,

Josh here. I have a 79 Lincoln Continental and well, she idles really high. And I'm not sure how to tone it down, I've adjusted the carb idle screw. It wont turn anymore without the engine shutting off. It likes to stall out quite a bit. I'm guessing because of the same issue? When I shut off the key after running into town and she is all warmed up to op temp. She sputters for a few seconds and sometimes even about 15. Shakes the whole car then finally makes a sound like air out of a tire. Before shutting off. I was told that the timing is too advanced, I've been told to get a new carb. And I've been told to adjust the carb more. (Which I cannot) any help would be great. She will be going to a shop this Friday. It's 8/14/17

Sincerely,

Josh

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Greetings Joshua -

From your description, carburetor adjustment or a worn out binding carburetor does indeed seem to be your "too fast of an idle" problem. The adjustments for the various carburetors that were used in 1979 are clearly shown along with all of the other carburetor functions in the Factory Shop manual which you need to perform the adjustments. Unfortunately I cannot observe the state of adjustment, condition of your carburetor or even see if it is the original carb. with all of the original controls installed and functioning correctly. If you for any reason are unable to follow the adjustment procedures in the correct shop manual, someone local in your area with carburetor experience will need to do this for you. If we can be of further help with any parts for this repair please contact us again at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 27, 2017

1979 Mark V Heater Control Valve Question & Follow Up

Hi Bill,

Thought I needed a heater control valve I am in the processes of assessing the problem. I find I have no vacuum at the valve. Going through the manual I see I have a green hose, purple and a black, green going to heater valve, black has vacuum at the plastic manifold but doesn't continue to flow thru green hose to heater valve. When I jump the black hose (Vacuum) to green it operates the valve. Could there be a problem with the plastic manifold that I may not be seeing? There is also a thin cable with a rubber part that moves in that plastic manifold with the cable, don't know if that has an effect. Thanks so much.

Kenneth

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Hi Kenneth -

That green vacuum hose that routes to the water valve will only receive vacuum from the valve on the power servo when the system calls for full cooling and the power servo has pulled that thin wire on the servo valve to the extreme cooling position,. The water valve will receive no vacuum and be open in any other position. This operation is shown on page 36-74-3 of your Factory service manual. If this valve is receiving vacuum but cannot send vacuum to the water valve it could indeed be at fault. the rubber plunger inside of this valve is known to deteriorate and fail with age or if transmission fluid has intruded into the ATC vacuum system because of a vacuum shift valve leak at the transmission. The presence of transmission fluid at the servo valve under the dash will be evident.

If the complete power servo with the valve mounted properly on the side is sent to us we can test and evaluate it for you and possibly repair it for you. The mounting pins on that valve can be brittle and collapse so do not over tighten them.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Thanks Bill,

I may take you up on removing servo if nothing else pops up and forwarding it. I want to check the ATC switch if I can find it on the motor, also is there a test for the ATC temp sensor at glove box.

Thanks again, hope to hear back from you.

Kenny

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Hi Kenny -

Before you tear anything apart you need to be sure how that system operates. As I stated previously, that water valve does not close all the time for a/c, only in the maximum servo a/c position. You did not share the problem that you are experiencing with your ATC that prompted you to check this water valve. Read your manual carefully to know how each component operates. What issue prompted you to suspect a water valve problem ( no cooling, poor cooling etc. )?

Sincerely,

Bill

79 Collector's Series Sedan Interior Lights

Hi Bill,

I purchased a 1979 Lincoln Continental Town Car, Collector's Series about a week ago. Its a great car, but with anything that is almost 40 years old it has a few issues. I am baffled by the rear map lights. They come on when you open the doors/turn on the cabin lights on the dash. However, they will not turn on by the switch on the door panel itself. Now, when the lights are on and you flick the switch, then the lights will blink as the switch toggles on/off. However, once the lights shut off, the switch does nothing again. I don't think its a switch related issue as the lights seem to respond to the switch when they are already illuminated. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Anthony

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Greetings Anthony -

That lamp circuit is complicated and can be even more complicated to diagnose if you do not have the correct manual and wiring diagram. You can start by testing for power with a 12v test light at the light green/yellow tracer wire at the door switches. If there is no power there you will need to find out why with the use of the wiring diagram. If there is power there, the switch when activated should send power directed to that reading light only. Your owners manual should tell how and when these lights operate.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 18, 2017

1979 Mark V Hard To Start

Hi Bill -

Thank you for getting back to me on the A/C issue with my Mark V. I will share with my mechanic..

I have a new issue... I previously had my mechanic work on the carb to get it to where it starts just like the owners manual advises where if it sits idle for a few days or more, then depress the accelerator pedal two or three times. After I got the car back all was perfect with the cold start where I would do like the owners manual advises and it would start up in like 3-4 seconds in which I would let the choke warm up and then drive away no problem. In the past few months, the cold start process is taking longer each time even if starting the car the very next day. It will just crank and crank and then start after now up to 6-10 seconds. It never did that before and seems like each time the cold start process is taking longer each time I go to start it. Keep in mind that this is happening here in Phoenix, with a brutal heat wave in which some days the air temp is 118 degrees, and the car is stored in a enclosed storage facility. I had the mechanic replace the power valve twice in the carb now and I am wondering if that is the issue again, or is it the brutal heat or vapor lock? I had the gas tank cleaned out, and added fresh gas with a fuel stabilizer that they said I should use since I don't drive the card that often. By the way, when I drive the car, no problem at all with acceleration or deacceleration - it's just this recent cold start issue taking longer, and keep in mind I sometimes go to the storage facility to start it say on a sat morning and the temp outside is about 85-90 degrees. I also had a new fuel filter put on it as well. I appreciate your help with this new issue.

Bill

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Hi Bill -

Agreed, it does sound like a fuel mixture or fuel availability problem. Have your mechanic check the carburetor for cold choke operation and the availability of fuel from the internal carb air inlet under the choke butterfly to the engine from the accelerator pump while pumping but not cranking when the engine has been sitting COLD. Fuel in abundance must be available immediately for an instant cold start.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 10, 2017

1979 Mark V AC Questions

Hi Bill -

I have a 1979 Lincoln Mark V with 10K original miles and have a A/C issue.. When I bought the car I found out from my mechanic that the A/C compressor has a leak and would need to be replaced..It had already been converted to R-134 before so I had the compressor replaced and filled with R-134 again..This was done in early spring and it seemed to work fine but what the climate control system does is when you start the car and turn on the A/C it works fine..When you put it in drive and drive slow it still works fine however when you get on the highway and get it up to speed like over 30MPH approx and above with the A/C temperature selector set as low as it will go the climate control system kicks in and slightly warm air starts coming in from the floor heater ducts and a little from the dash and then the A/C will come back on and start blowing cold again and then back to the heat mode..Keep in mind here in Arizona when I drive it is above 100 Degrees F outside. The A/C should be blowing colder for a longer time and the climate control system is kicking the A/C out sooner than it should..I was wondering if it could be the A/C temperature control sensor that is bad and is not recognizing the true inside cabin temp inside the car..What are your thoughts??

Thanks,

Bill

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Hello Bill -

The system on your Mark does not cycle the compressor so therefor it is engaged all of the time that the Climate Control is on. The compressor will be off in the Vent position, the Heat position and in the winter when the ambient temp. is under approximately 35 degrees F. Loss of vacuum anywhere in the control system will cause a drift towards blended heat and defrost. You should check the ATC vacuum system as per the factory service manual for a vacuum leak or a vacuum servo internal leak. A system that is undercharged with refrigerant can loose some cooling at higher speeds because of refrigerant shrinkage but will not cause a default to the floor ducts. Did you check to see if any air was blowing out of the defrost ducts when the symptoms appeared? The ATC temperature sensor above the glove box assembly. can also be faulty as you suggest but it also cannot cause a default to heat at the floor ducts. Another possibility is some vacuum lines crossed under the dash or under the hood. Vacuum can leak anywhere that the vacuum is routed including the a/c vacuum reservoir and its Vacuum check valve. Engine vacuum can drop at higher speeds and if there is also a vacuum leak somewhere in the system, the controls cannot and will not maintain maximum cooling. I think that you will find that air is also blowing out of the defrost ducts when this heating occurs. In any case the a/c vacuum system should be tested in a logical sequence ( do not omit any a/c lines or vacuum motors) using the proper vacuum pump with a built in vacuum gauge and shop manual with the vacuum diagrams in order to pinpoint any leaks. Show this reply to your a/c mechanic. He may be experienced and able to locate the problem quickly. Some vacuum leaks can sometimes be spotted easily under the hood. We wish you a speedy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 6, 2017

1968 Continental Will Not Turn Off

Hi Bill,

I have a 1968 4 door Lincoln Continental with the 462 engine. When I turn the key off the engine will not shut off, unless I turn the radio on?? I have replaced the Alternator and Voltage Regulator, but the problem has not gone away. It is like the coil is getting a back feed through the circuit somewhere. Any help you can give would be appreciated.

Thank you, Regards,

Aaron

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Greetings Aaron -

Some of these types of issues can be time consuming to diagnose but accurate diagnosis is very important. You need to know a few things about your car before trying to uncover the actual problem.

Did the problem begin after some" recent" repair or addition to the vehicle?

Do you have a non factory ignition system (Petronix etc)?

You could start testing at the ignition coil with the key in the off position and with the engine off. If you have power at the coil in this position you would need to test why power is available there in this off position. A proper wiring diagram and 12v test light is a must for the testing. The power path will lead from the coil to the ignition switch and also to the starter solenoid. A short inside the starter solenoid could cause the coil to be powered up with the key off. Unplugging that wire at the starter solenoid will remove the power to the coil if the solenoid is faulty. The other possibility is that the ignition switch or its electrical connection is shorted. Unplugging the ignition switch and carefully inspecting the plug will remove power to the coil if there is a problem in that area. You can observe the power at the ignition coil with every disconnect that you do to find out if that component is shorted etc.

I have no idea what the radio could have to do with your problem unless some unknown wiring deviation was added to your Lincoln. Do you know if any non factory wiring was ever added to your vehicle?

Sincerely,

Bill

1979 Mark V Draw On System

Bill -

I have a 3.5 amp draw that I can't find.I have a battery disconnect switch that I turn off when I'm not running the car. If it gets left on it will run the battery down over night. What I've done so far. Removed each fuse one at a time and checked the draw each time I remove a fuse. With the neg. battery cable disconnected I check with my amp meter between the neg.cable end, and the neg. battery post. All fused wiring checked good. I removed the battery cable to the alternator same 3.5 amp draw problem. Any ideas what it could be? It has to be something that is on all the time or a short somewhere.Thanks for any help.

Lyle

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Hello Lyle -

It sounds like you have been busy with that draw. Disconnecting components one at a time is a good idea and should expose the culprit. Have you checked the trunk light, under hood light and the glove box light carefully to be sure that no lights remain on when the trunk, hood and glove box are closed? Do you have any alarms, radios or other aftermarket accessories added to the car? How old is your battery? A battery load test and charge test may be a good idea even though you disconnect it overnight.

To check the charging system for a draw, ALL of the wires must be disconnected at the alternator as well as the voltage regulator. Your email indicates that only one wire is disconnected at the alternator for your test.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 5, 2017

1976 Mark IV Radio Removal

Hi Bill :) hoping you can help my Dad and I in removing the radio on my Lincoln. We have removed the cover for the instrument panel and can not figure out how to remove the simulated wood plate that the knob posts come through. The FM does not work and we want to replace it with another stock unit. I don't have a shop manual for it, I know it's probably a simple step I can't figure out. Can u please help? :) Thank you so much!!!

Michael

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Hi Michael -

Very nice choice of Lincoln to have and drive. I have one also with 32000 miles on it. That woodgrain mask may not need to be removed to service the radio. The radio removal procedure begins on page 35-01-06 in the factory service manual. If you are going be keeping the car and doing your own repairs, the correct set of manuals is an absolute must in order to save time and money. We may be able to send you a copy of the radio removal procedure from our files. A copy of the complete manuals is available from Lincoln Land when you are ready. Good luck with your "new" Mark !

Sincerely,

Bill

1971 Mark III Aftermarket Shock Question

Hallo Bill-

I recently purchased a Mark III - 1971. Because of the mileage my mechanic suggested replacing the shock-absorbers, which was fine with me. He installed the most basic, standard (cheapest) Monroes. But I don't like them. They feel too "light", not suitable for a 4750 lbs car. The car feels "wobbly" (lack of a better word) and unstable / unsafe especially at (European) standard highway speed, eg 75-80 mph. One can not hold the steering wheel straight and still for more than a couple of seconds, it needs constant re-adjusting and correcting. Where I live (Belgium) it is difficult to find reliable and/or technical information let alone other Mk III owners to share information with, hence I address you with my question. What is a good (the best?) replacement for the shock absorbers? Monroe is the most common brand in Europe (+service) although all other brands can be found and ordered (KYB, Gabriel etc) Based on what I read, and what would be my choice with what I know so far, Monroe Load Adjusting shocks are a good choice. (the "Monroe" brand just for the sake and ease of its broad service network over here - other brands have identical types) The car is daily used and doesn't carry / tow loads. Just me and the occasional passenger. What is your recommendation, all help and advice is most appreciated. Kind regards.

Samuel - Leuven, Belgium

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Greetings Den -

Because of the many shocks available and the many needs and wants of the owners we do not get too involved with the selection of these types of parts. If you are not happy with the shock absorbers that your mechanic has chosen you will need to speak to him for a correction.

More important than shock absorbers at this point in time is your description of the steering and handling of your Mark III. A vehicle that exhibits the symptoms such as you describe clearly needs to be immediately inspected and corrected by a competent "front end" technician. Your vehicle may have some serious worn out parts. We can supply most steering and suspension parts if needed.

Sincerely,

Bill

June 14, 2017

1979 Continental Sedan - New Owner Questions....

Hi Bill -

Recently I had to buy a Collectors Series ;) The car is a survivor with some flaws that I am addressing now. With two of them I could need some help: 1) the drivers side vent window does not go down properly. Instead of moving down, it is tilting forward and blocking. The vent is loose as you can take it by the upper end and tilt it in direction forward/afterward. When you press the vent to the main glass manually, the window will go properly through the whole cycle. I opened the door and found a round black piece of plastic that seems to have had a bolt in the center that is now broken. As well I found something like a green tip that might fit to the black plastic, broken as well. On the passenger side, the black round plastic was broken inside the door, however, the green tip is still in its place in the glass and the window is working properly (for the moment). Do you know what part I'm talking about? I did not find it in the manual and I don't know how its called or if there is any replacement. If yes, do you sell it? 2) When I got the car I tested everything, including power door lock. Unfortunately, the rear door locked and stuck. Now it does not open. How can I open the door to get access to the mechanism when the door is closed and locked? Or is there a way to lubricate without the door trim panel, as I cannot remove that with the door closed... Thanks for your help!

Severin

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Hi Severin -

Very nice choice of Lincoln. The dropping vent windows option is a nice extra but is known to give their share of problems after all of these years have passed since 1979. If a repair seems too complicated for you, we can repair some of these issues such as you describe depending on the extent of damage. We also may be able supply a used assembly if necessary. Please give George a call at our office for details.

Your power door lock issue sounds like the common seized Power Actuator problem. If you were to send your actuator in to us for testing we may be able to repair it or if necessary supply a new one. If you cannot trick the lock to open with the aid of an assistant operating the switch as you try to coax a release of the lock you may need the services of AAA or an experienced automobile " lock out " service. Again, call George at our office for further information etc.

Sincerely,

Bill

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