July 1, 2015

1966 Continental Brake Light Issue

Hi Bill,

I love your blog! You are so thorough in explaining your answers to the many varied questions. Now I have one I hope you can help me with.

I have a 66 Continental Convertible that has a weird brake light problem. It seems that the passenger side brake light doesn't light at the same brake pedal pressure as the brake light for the driver's side. A somewhat light pressure on the brake pedal that is enough to brake the car to a stop from a slow to moderate speed brings on the driver side brake lights, but the passenger side brake lights only light when a very firm pedal pressure is applied. All the turn signals work properly, as do the tail lights.

Looking at the electrical drawings, it seems like there is only one brake light switch circuit (unless there has been some undocumented modifications,during production or by an owner over the years).

Thanks in advance for any suggestions of things for me to check.

Robert

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Hi Robert -

Sounds like News of the Weird! Sometimes though it doesn't take too much to upset a circuit. You are correct, more brake pressure can't send more voltage to the right brake lights. Two possibilities come to mind though. First make sure that all of the brake lights are on and have the same brightness when they DO work. The bulbs on one side may be incorrect for the car. Second there may be a bad ground at the right side bulb location or a bad connection at any switch or relay that leads to the right brake lights. The circuit for the turn signals, four way flashers and brake lights on the 1966 Lincoln is complicated and can be difficult to diagnose. You could check another possibility by applying the brakes slowly and have a helper tell you when the left side illuminates. At this point stop the pressure on the pedal with the left side on and wiggle the turn signal lever in the center ( neutral ) position area and have your helper observe for the right side to light up. If it does, the turn signal switch could be internally faulty or if you have the "tilt wheel" option it could be out of adjustment. When diagnosing it is important to concentrate mostly on the wiring for the right side and watch for some previous wiring repair that could be defective. All connections and grounds can be suspect. It is very good that you have the wiring diagram indicating the wire colors. I hope that these suggestions help to lead you to a quick repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

June 30, 2015

1963 AC Evaporator Drain & Follow Up

Good morning Bill -

Thank you for all the advice you provide to us Lincoln car owners. I have also had great help from your sales staff when purchasing replacement parts and assistance with installation advice.

My short question is "where is the AC evaporator drain located on my '63 sedan?"

The long part stems from nearing the end of our family 2500 mile road trip to the 2015 Eastern National meet. We had been using the AC most of the trip without issue. Good cold air (converted to 134). Passing through Ohio, it was quite stormy, humid but not terribly hot (around 80). AC was started early in the day around 10 AM. About 1 hour later, I noticed condensation around the AC vents, then around the radio selector keys. That afternoon, there was a cool mist vapor which started coming out of the AC vents. I quickly turned off the AC which stopped the blower and the vapor stopped. Tried it again 5 minutes later and even my 6 year old in the back seat noticed the "smoke". I was trying to postulate as to the cause. Next day I ran AC at 2/3 without further issue.

Fast forward to the question. Could the evaporator drain be plugged allowing water to back up? I don't recall ever seeing a puddle of water under the car like my modern vehicles do when running the AC. I have NOT seen water spilling into the interior of the car.

Thank you in advance.

Phil

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Hello Phil -

We are pleased that you are happy with our service here at Lincoln Land. Be assured also that our staff is pleased to have you as a loyal customer.

The condensate drain on your 63 should be found behind the engine at the extreme lower firewall area. It will be under the evaporator area and may not be easy to see immediately. If the a/c has been operating and cooling properly for awhile especially in the Fresh position with a hot humid outside condition some condensate should be seen draining from this area under the car and onto the ground. The dripping condensate will help you locate the drain for cleaning any partial clogs. If the a/c is operating properly and no draining at all is noticed you will need to locate and clean the drain.

Usually any vapor ( along with a slight coolant odor ) that is seen exiting into the passenger area though is indicative of a heater core leak . Temporarily bypassing the heater core and driving the car as usual will prove or disprove this possibility. On a 63 though, the evaporator is quite close to the ducts and therefore some vapor and condensing may be seen on the a/c outlet grille chrome under conditions of high humidity. However, there is another possibility that can occur to all a/c systems. The evaporator can freeze up into a block of ice with some droplets carried off into the air stream. This is usually followed by a drop in blower volume and a rise in cooling air temperature at the vents. If this freezing is in fact happening, a large amount of condensate will be seen on the ground after the engine is shut off and the car sits for a while. This can happen on your Lincoln if the programmable thermostatic switch is faulty, out of adjustment or bypassed because of a control switch failure etc. You can de-ice the evaporator ( if this icing is happening ) while driving by selecting Heat or Vent control position with the blower on high speed. This will turn off the compressor and yet allow the blower to melt any ice that is present. The 63 Shop Manual contains the vacuum and electrical diagrams along with some photos. Some skills and understanding of the operation are necessary in order to diagnose and correctly pinpoint a possible problem. I would advise you to do the above simple observation tests before condemning any component. I hope that this helps you.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill,

You are a Gentleman and a Scholar!!

Thank you for your detailed answer. It's all starting to make sense now. All data seems to point toward an iced over evaporator core.

Sincerely,

Phil

June 29, 2015

1971 Mark III AC Questions

Bill,

I have recently acquired a 1971 Mark III with 54,000 original miles, car is in very good condition overall. AC was blowing hot air. Compressor wire was disconnected when I got it. I reconnected wiring and compressor engages and is working as it should. I put the system under vacuum and it held vacuum for 90 minutes without dropping. So I went ahead and purged out all old R-12 that may have remained and put adapters on for 134a refrigerant. Added oil and then the proper amount of 134a to the system. Car was then blowing about 42 degrees out of vents with AC on and I was very happy. Two days later, I take it for a ride and notice what looks to be smoke/fog coming out of defroster vents inside car (AC was not on at this time). I pull over and look under the hood and there is no smoke or problems under hood. No smell of smoke in the car either. So, I think back to recent AC work and turn on AC and it is blowing hot. A leak detector was used and did alarm a bit when stuck into the defroster vents inside the car, this was a week after the AC/smoke visible in defroster vent incident.

With the limited information provided, does this seem like an evaporator leak? Is the replacement of the evaporator a tough job? Do you remove the evaporator from under the hood area or do you have to get at it from inside the car as well? Any guidance you can provide would be appreciated.

Thank you

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Greetings -

Congratulations on your recent purchase of the 71 Mark III. They are great cars to have and they are well liked by all car collectors. We look forward to helping you as our customer with repair parts as necessary to help you maintain it in good condition.

The symptom that you describe with the smoke and fog emitting from the heat/ac ducting is a common description of a classic heater core leak. Tiny amounts of anti-freeze can leak onto the hot heater core fins and then become steam. A leak in the core can usually be proven by disconnecting the heater hoses at the core and joining them together. If after driving the car a few days with the core bypassed the fog is gone, reconnect it and observe for the fog to reappear. The refrigeration system will not emit steam or fog if it develops a r134 leak. I can't tell if the charge is actually lost of course because you may not have checked the pressure in the system to find out. Hot air discharge when cool air is needed could also be a control problem.

To sum this up for you it does sound that the heater core is leaking and also that the refrigeration system has lost the charge of r134. If the a/c has indeed lost its charge I would not be at all surprised because when you purchased the car the compressor was disconnected and the system was empty. This is strong evidence of a previous undiagnosed leak. The copper evaporator coils on the Mark IIIs have proven very durable in the past, therefore the whole system should be leak tested carefully to prove a suspected leak or leaks to avoid replacing good components. A system that holds vacuum for a period of time is not absolute proof that a leak does not exist. We test for refrigerant leaks with nitrogen pressure at 120 lbs psi and if there is a drop in pressure after a good period of time, the remaining pressure can then be used to pinpoint the culprit. The heater core and evaporator core are both removed from under the hood as per the Factory Shop Manual. The evaporator will have two fasteners under the dash as well. We have new heater cores available and good used evaporators available for you as required.

Sincerely,

Bill

June 22, 2015

1964 Continental Power Steering Issues & Follow Up

Hey Bill,

I recently took my '64 Continental into a local shop for some brake issues. Those were all fixed, but while in the shop I was told the power steering lines were rotting, leaking and needed to be replaced.

I went ahead and had them do that, but then the car started making loud noises when steering. The shop claimed it was air in the hoses, but they were not able to rectify that. Ultimately, they determined that the power steering pump was bad and needed to be rebuilt as well. They quoted me $1000 to do that job, on top of what I've already had to pay for new hoses.

The car didn't have any power steering issues before I took it in, so now I'm suspect of the whole situation. I was being pressured into getting the power steering pump rebuilt because they said you can't find those for sale and if I let the old one go much longer, I
won't be able to rebuild it at all. I didn't like the pressure, so I just picked up the car and decided not to address the issue at that shop. But now I have a really loud noise from the steering and I guess I need to get that pump fixed somehow. What should I expect to have a pump rebuilt at another shop? Is $1000 the right range? Do I really have to rebuild this one or can those be found for sale out in the market?

Help!

Mercedes

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Mercedes -

While we feel sorry for you, we are well aware that most shops know absolutely nothing about these pumps and P.S. systems, and your shop could be one of them.

We have no idea what else they may have done to it and we also don't know if they allowed some debris into the lines, or if the hoses that they replaced are incorrect sizes or what fluid or additive were used.

You may want to consider talking the car to another shop for them to try to bleed the system using correct fluid and pressure test it as per the special correct shown system pressures in the Lincoln Factory Shop Manual.

If you are advised that his pump is bad, you can send it to us for inspection and we can advise you on what parts you need. There would be no charge for this other than the cost of shipping.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hey Bill,

Thanks so much for the advice.

I will contact another shop and see if they are able to rectify the issue through bleeding and proper fluids/pressure. If this pump ends up being bad, I'll send it your way for inspection.

Thanks again!!

Mercedes

Mercedes

1979 Town Coupe Issues

Hey Bill,

I just bought a 1979 Lincoln Continental Town Coupe and am happy to say that I have fallen in love with it. Unfortunately I have developed a slight issue that only occurs in the right conditions. When I got it, I drove it an hour back and have since taken it to places close by with no problems! I had to take it deeper in the cities earlier today to go meet up with someone and the speeds were fairly slow most of the way with heavy traffic and a lot of idling. I got to my destination just fine but when I went out to leave it wouldn't start! So I popped the hood and let the engine cool as it seemed very hot and after 10 minutes it fired back up. I backed out of my spot and put it in drive, and as soon as I hit the gas it quit again, like someone just turned the key off, but it fired back up and I was on my way again. Then getting onto the highway about 5 miles from where I started I got up to 50mph and it almost died when shifting but I caught it fast enough and kept going, and after getting enough air to cool down again it ran fine. So I was wondering what you might think? I was thinking maybe the coil pack or the distributor, maybe the duraspark because I heard that is a common problem when hot. Although it has only done it this one time, I'm worried it may start occurring earlier and I want to jump the gun on it.

Thanks a Bunch!

Sam

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Sam -

Yes, could be Duraspark, or could be carburetor, or fuel delivery or could be overheating etc. How are the spark plugs and high tension wiring? You have only recently purchased this vehicle and probably have no real detailed knowledge of its maintenance history. A 36 year old car of any brand can develop many unknown and common tune up issues over the years. It appears that on scene diagnosis is in your future by someone who is familiar with the fuel and ignition electronics in your 1979 Town Car. I am sorry that I cannot pinpoint your issue or issues from here without any diagnosis.

Sincerely,

Bill

1975 Mark IV Blower Motor Cover Removal

Good afternoon guys -

I have a quick question about removing the blower motor lower cover. There is a screw near the firewall toward the driver side. It is virtually impossible to reach due to the ambient air hose fitting serving the sensor. I can loosen the screw by snaking a socket extension up there, but I'm worried I won't be able to get it started back when replacing the cover due to the angle. Is there a trick to this? In other words, can the fitting be removed or loosened from the engine side to get it out of the way? As you all know, the manuals are a little lacking in information on details like this.

Thanks!!

Jim

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Hello Jim -

You are correct. Sometimes the manuals are a little sparse in certain areas. The removal section the in Mark IV section does not show the removal for the blower motor in the Factory Service manual but the Thunderbird section on page 36-45-11 has a very clear step by step procedure that should help you. The Tbird and Mark uses the same HVAC units. Figure 15 on page 36-45 16 has a great drawing of the removal and installation fasteners. I notice that the lower tabs on the lower housing at the firewall are open slotted so that complete removal of the two screws may not necessary. We do not have problems with this procedure but we do find that in some cases we need to carefully and cleverly configure our extensions and sockets etc. in order to reach some areas. If you do not have these important sections in your manual, contact George at our office and he will look after this for you. Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Bill

June 18, 2015

1977 Mark V AC Questions & Update

Hi,

I am currently having a problem with my AC on my 1977 Lincoln Continental Mark V. It only blows hot air. There is an HVAC located under the dash that is not connected to anything. However, when I suck on the HVAC the AC begins to work correctly and blow cold air. I can't find where to connect the HVAC to. Any ideas? I could send a picture if that would be of any help.

Sam

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Greetings Sam -

Yes, please send a "clear" photo and I may be able to identify the part that is disconnected. Sometimes certain vacuum lines are pulled off from a certain servo by owners or technicians in order to overcome the lack of needed heat in the car that is due to a another component that has failed. Your description is not uncommon for a part that is well known to fail. If I identify the part it will be up to you to find and reconnect the vacuum hose to the servo. Skills here would be very helpful and you may need the vacuum schematic for this. You will probably also need to replace the failed part that I mentioned above. It is a popular fail item that we usually have in stock. Be prepared to purchase this part from us and become another satisfied Lincoln Land customer. We will wait for your photo to arrive and then proceed to the next step.

Sincerely,

Bill

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View image

Here you are Sir, here is the photo you asked for

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Hi Sam -

Your photo is clearly showing a disconnected vacuum hose. Is that what you are referring to as a disconnected Hvac? If I understand you correctly you are saying that if you apply vacuum to this hose, the Heating Ventilating Air Conditioning (HVAC) system starts to operate on a/c. If that is true, you will need to find the disconnect under the dash and connect it properly. This I cannot do from here. Your photo also seems to reveal other wiring or vacuum hoses that may be in a state of disarray under the dash. Wiring and vacuum schematics/diagrams may be required in order to correct this and any other parts that are disconnected or misconnected.

Sincerely,

Bill

June 17, 2015

1979 Mark V Instrument Panel Lights, Door Chime Questions

Hi Bill,

Dumb question but are ***all*** the lamps on the idiot panel suppose to light up when the key is turned to "on?" (All of mine don't come on, only about four of them.)

I have a picture of the idiot panel. (1979 Bill Blass Mark V.)

All the bulbs are new and I don't see any burnt/black marks on the backside of the panel.

Also, I have that nice, melodic sounding seat belt warning chime. Even though I've taken it a part and rebuilt it/cleaned it up, and the wires appear to be grounded and not torn anywhere (because I have the inside gutted and carpet pulled), it doesn't chime and that makes me sad.

Do you have any suggestions regarding the chime and do you know if all of the bulbs should light up when the key is first turned to "on."

Thanks a million,

Paul

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Greetings Paul -

Some of these warning lights can be confusing at times because there are so many of them that can light up at various times. Fortunately FoMoCo has included a full explanation of their operation in your owners manual on pages 10 through to 12. These little manuals are handy for owners to read up and learn the operation and function of the many features of their car.

The seat belt warning chime feature has several other electric components included in that circuit in addition to the chime module that you have apparently "rebuilt". When you rebuilt that chime unit, you must have bench checked it and verified that it was then operable as part of the repair. At Lincoln Land we are able to substitute good known units that we have on hand to test them first. If the chime then operates as designed with the replaced part, the repair is complete. If the original chime module in the vehicle proves o/k however we move to the next step and refer to page 34-30-6 of the 1979 Shop Manual in order to diagnose the remaining components of the circuit according to the diagram. We then replace any units that are diagnosed as faulty in the tests. If you find that you need any of these parts for your repair we should have them available. Do you have a parts account with us at the present time?

Sincerely,

Bill

June 16, 2015

1976 Town Car Windows Not Working

Bill -

Here a question from the Netherlands. I have a Continental Town Car from 1976. And none of the windows work. Now I read somewhere that there must be a switch or relay that can cut out the whole circus ( I remember my Rover sedan had one in the glovebox). Now I have been looking but can not find one. Is there one in the car or do I have to dig for the problem?

Thanks.

Jef

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Jef -

The Factory Shop Manual, as well as the Wiring Diagram both show the Relay located on the Firewall for the AC and the Power Windows. Both of these items are well worth the investment if you are planning on keeping the car. Lincoln Land can supply you with both.

Sincerely,

Bill

1969 Mark III Restart Issues

Hi Bill -

I have a 69 Mark III with 37k miles. Car runs just about perfectly (idle is very smooth, definitely has full power) except for a minor issue.

When restarting the car when it's hot, sometimes it starts then immediately dies. It may take 5 to 6 times to finally restart the car, each time I crank it, the car fires immediately then dies. The symptoms remind me of a bad ballast resistor in the early 70s Chryslers. Pumping the pedal does not expedite the starting procedure.

I took the air cleaner off while trying to start it and the choke is clearly open (which it should be). If anything, it feels like the car floods itself. However, once the car restarts, it doesn't behave as if it was flooded (i.e., no chugging smoke, no rough idle, no need to keep foot on the throttle to clear out unburned fuel). When it does restart, it simply settles into a smooth idle.

Any ideas what's going on? Is this typical for these cars? Have owned the car for 4 years and don't recall having this issue before this year. Is there a ballast resistor on these cars?

Adam

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Hello Adam -

It is not unusual for all cars to develop a variety of starting and running problems over a period of time. To answer your questions though.....No, I do not know what is going on at this time. You haven't given us any useful diagnosis information that would help anyone try to pinpoint your problem without guessing......Yes, this could be considered typical for these Lincolns and all other cars that may be in dire need of a tune up or that could have a carburetor issue or old fuel etc......Yes, there is an ignition resistor under the dash installed and hidden in the main wiring harness. The ignition part of the wiring diagram will show this and the Shop Manual describes the replacement procedure. It is difficult to get to but of course could be tested under the hood and verified for proper voltage to the coil. These resistor wires are not known as a common failure item on these cars. Hope this helps you diagnose your starting problems. When you are ready, we can supply you with all of the quality tune up items etc. that you may need.

Sincerely,

Bill

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