August 27, 2015

1969 Mark AC Air Flow Control

Bill -

I was given your name and contact info by Chris Dunn at Lincon Land. I understand we all have something in common - all three of us have Mark IIIs without vinyl roofs! Certainly the way the designer had intended the car to be.

We need some advice with ours. We're trying to get the HVAC to function properly and the problem at hand is the air flow control. We have a competent mechanic here in Palm Springs, California who is familiar with older cars but he has reached the limits of his experience with this particular issue. As you know - access under the dash is quite limited. We only have 35K miles on the car so we're concerned about him randomly disassembling things.

We seem to be only getting air from the defroster. Chris tells me the ATC might be the culprit but we're wondering if there is any advice you can give for troubleshooting to pinpoint if that is the case?

We are scrambling to get the car fixed before the Palos Verdes Concours and the LCOC National meet in San Diego. We will be driving and showing the car at both events.

Any help you can provide would be appreciated.



Scott -

The Automatic Climate Control system on your Mark III is a complicated system for its time and it is not easily and quickly understood and diagnosed. If the technician working on it is not skilled at automotive Climate Control systems in general and does not have the correct Manual and wiring diagram for that particular vehicle he or she will have a very difficult and time consuming job ahead. Some vehicles are fraught with several problems. Trouble shooting these mechanisms is always done with the proper Manuals etc. by your side. Your description of the one particular issue " we seem to only be getting air from the defroster" could prove though to be an easy fix if you are lucky because if that system on your Mark somehow looses its vacuum supply to the ATC control box, the controls will automatically default to Full Defrost, High Speed Blower and Maximum Temperature output at any control lever setting. Therefore the first item to check should be the vacuum supply to the ATC control box with the use of the vacuum diagram. Loss of vacuum ( an unplugged/broken vacuum hose ) could be your only problem. Additional issues with other symptoms are possible however.

Good luck with a speedy repair.



August 25, 2015

1978 Town Coupe Rough Idle

Hello Bill,

Thank you for your endless patience for the woes of the Lincoln. My dad gave me the old 1978 Continental with the 7.5. l have tried everything we could think of to get it to idle smooth. It does have a re manufactured carb, just replaced the EGR valve, it has new spark plugs, wires, and coil. Dad was thinking we needed to set the float on the carb or that the Jets could be plugged, do you have any ideas?



Greetings Christian -

A 78 Lincoln Coupe with the 460 cid engine is a very nice automobile and capable of satisfying a Lincoln lovers needs in all respects.

Not knowing the history of your Lincoln or how long it has been sitting or how well it ran before you received it I can only offer the following basic suggestions. If you suspect that the jets could be plugged ( with fuel tank debris ) you could replace the fuel filter and then thoroughly inspect the old filter. Vehicles that have been unused for a period of time can in some cases form rust in the gas tank that will end up in the carburetor eventually. I am assuming that your new spark plugs and wiring are in good order but further ignition problems such as distributor cap and rotor or any of the electronic modules could also be considered as suspects.

If you are not capable of specific diagnosis, a trip to a trusted tune up shop near your location could prove less costly than guessing and replacing parts that are not faulty. A good capable tune up technician can electronically scope your engine and possibly identify electronic ignition problems or dead cylinders etc. A cylinder compression test may even be required. As these tests are performed, a good technician is led methodically to the problem area.

Even though the engine has had a remanufactured carburetor at some point in time, they are well known to disappoint especially if they are receiving rust laden fuel from the fuel tank, therefore I would begin with a fuel system inspection as you also seem to suspect with your plugged jets comment. If you have no success in the fuel area you could then move on to some of the other suggestions above if required. Good luck with a speedy repair and as usual we will stand by with any repair parts that you may require.



August 21, 2015

1975 Town Car Lights Flashing

Bill -

I have a 1975 Lincoln Continental Town Car. 90,000 original miles. My problem is, after anywhere from 10-20 minutes of driving the car my dash, tail, and parking lights start turning on and off repeatedly. I can hear a click when it does it. Like a relay clicking on and off as the lights go on and off. I do not have the auto dimmer option on my car. Just wondering if it is the relay getting hot and then cycling through an on and off stage. Or if the actual lights on pull switch on the dash is bad?? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am restricted to only driving during the day and would love to figure this out so I could cruise it at night. If it is the relays, where is it or are they located? Where can I get replacement relays and switches for the lights. Thank you ahead of time! Look forward to hearing from you soon!




Hi Sean -

Your description of the parking lamp circuit failure sounds like the Park Lamp circuit breaker which is located within the Headlamp switch is fatigued. If so, the h/l switch will need to be replaced. If however any other lights or wiring that are associated with the park lamp circuit are not operating properly and/or could be partly grounded etc. these could be suspect as well. This may include marker lamps, coach lamps, license lights, ash tray lights etc. If you happen to have any existing added on trailer towing wiring, this should also be considered as a partly grounded source in the diagnosis. Another known possibility is a bad electrical connection at the h/l switch itself. This happened to my own 1969 Continental and resulted in the clearly visible hot plug in connection transferring heat to and causing the breaker to cycle as you describe. If your problem is indeed finally diagnosed to be the Headlamp Switch etc. we will be pleased to have you as a customer and supply you with the correct repair parts. Be sure to keep us posted.



August 7, 2015

1979 Mark V New Owner Questions

Hi Bill -

I have imported a 1979 Lincoln Mark V to Denmark, it has only done 36000 miles from new, when I got the car it stalled if i was to quick hitting the gas pedal, I have cleaned the carburetor and that has helped a lot, but I still have a problem when the is hot and I stop and put it in reverse it stall, sometime it also stall when I go around a corner and not using the gas pedal, perhaps you can give me some help on fixing my problem, I think the car has spent a lot of time parked in a garage, so I also put a new fuel line filter on the car oil and oil filter?



Hi Jorgen -

Unless your carburetor floats were or are set incorrectly your stalling issues sound to me like basic tune up and carburetor adjustments are needed. In any case that is exactly where I would begin. It couldn't hurt to inspect the spark plugs for gap and wear as well. Do you have the necessary Factory Shop manuals to read, understand and perform these basic adjustments?



August 3, 2015

1968 Continental New Owner Questions


I recently purchased a 1968 Lincoln Continental 4-door sedan with the 7.5L 460 motor see attached photos. During some recent driving I have experienced the following 2 problems:

The last few times I tried to start the car I have take the air cleaner off and spray a little carb cleaner/starting fluid into the carb and she fires right up. Is this a choke problem or overall carb problem?
Also after last few rides when I get back home and turn the car off the alternator light comes on and stays on. If I restart the car it starts back up and turn off the light comes back on. The only way to get the light to go out is to disconnect the battery and I hear a click and the light goes out. I checked the battery voltage and it is reading 12 volts resting and 13+ volts when running. I also removed what at first I thought was the voltage regulator off the interior front right fender next to starter relay but this relay was actually the "Master Power Relay" I attached some photos.. Needless to say I figured out where the voltage regulator was (front left next to radiator) but when I went to the local Nappa the counter guy broke the lead off the A terminal on the Master Power Relay. Since this a plug type unit that mounts to frame I figured it just controlled "something else" that used power in the car. With the unit out the car starts up (with a shot of carb cleaner) and runs but I have no idea what this unit controls or does. I did some looking in shop manual for 1967 and the 1968 supplemental and I don't see anything. Do you know what it controls? I see new one costs $135 but I may try to solder the broke terminal and see if holds up.
The windshield wiper arms and blades that came with the car where horrible and the prior owner must have run them with blade off the passenger side because it scratched the window pretty bad. I took off the arms and noticed the one on the passenger had a different shape and the end was bent a little. Since getting new blade inserts I learned the the drivers side wiper holder should actually be the one with the bow or curve is that correct? I have attached a picture.

Whatever insight you can provide would greatly be appreciated.




Hi Joe -

Congratulations on your recent acquisition. It does sound however like you have purchased a car with several existing problems. These are actually very nice vehicles when all systems are operating as they should.

To answer some of your questions, yes, if you need to add starter fluid in order to start the engine there could be a choke or carburetor problem. Can you not determine if the choke is operative when you are adding the starting fluid to a cold engine? Of course the engine could also be in need of a major tune up in the ignition and fuel delivery department but I cannot in any way be certain from here. Do you have any information of the vehicle maintenance history to refer to?

You are correct that the curved wiper arm is installed on the left side (drivers side). The curve allows the blade to completely wipe the windshield curve on the left side.

The voltage at the battery with the engine running should be higher that 13v. This makes me believe that you may have a charging circuit problem. The same problem could be the same fault that is keeping the alt. light on with the ignition off and could be caused by the alternator itself. In any case, the charging system needs to be diagnosed as per the shop manual or by a competent automotive electrical shop. Any unknown tampering with the factory wiring installation or design by a previous owner of course can also cause strange electrical problems

The damaged relay in your photos appears to be the Power Window Safety Relay. We can offer to supply you with a replacement or to test and rebuild yours as necessary. Good luck and let us know how you would like to proceed with this.



July 29, 2015

1970 Mark III New Owner Problems...

Good Morning from Arizona:

I recently purchased this vehicle from a "dealer" in Phoenix. Even though the auto has low mileage, 56,500 miles, it has caused me a lot of problems. Before purchasing the vehicle, the dealer showed me many repairs that was made on the vehicle. It has an electronic ignition system installed as well as other repairs on the vacuum system. Left headlight will not close for example, the A/C does not work but the blower motor does. The biggest problem is the vehicle will not go into second gear! The Ford dealer in Starr Valley, AZ says it is the "governor" but will not be able to repair it as there are no parts available for it! I find that hard to believe! So, the vehicle sits and has been for the past four months at the dealer. Can you advise me if there is something else that needs to be considered or what is your recommendation! The other items can wait but without the ability to shift, the vehicle is unsafe to drive.




Hi Rance -

The C6 transmission in your newly purchased Mark III is one of the best automatic transmissions ever built. The further good news is that we at Lincoln Land have many good used parts and repair kits available for this transmission. Many transmission parts suppliers carry gaskets and general maintenance and wear items as well. Unfortunately though, you may have purchased this car a little hastily. You seem to now own a vehicle that you cannot even begin driving at this time because of an existing transmission issue and with my experience on collector cars, more repair surprises may be in your future.

There is good news though for your transmission problem. The greater Phoenix AZ area will have many skilled old school transmission technicians on staff with C6 experience who will be pleased to properly diagnose your problem and repair that transmission. You will need to do some very careful shopping and choose wisely. All of your other Mark III issues will prove equally frustrating however if you are not prepared or able to perform your own repairs and do plenty of reading of the proper shop manuals.

If all of this is new to you and you do plan to keep and drive this vehicle, the best advice that I can give you at this time is to join the national "Lincoln Continental and Owners Club". You can then contact other Lincoln owners in your locality and learn from them where the best capable repair shops are located in your immediate area for this car. We will be here for you when you need any parts and manuals etc. if you need them.



July 28, 2015

1968 Continental Battery Drain


I've got an all original 68 Continental with a 462. I'm having similar issues as this guy

Car runs and drives great. BUT even with a brand new battery and voltage regulator the car will die even while running if I over use power windows, horn, or seats.

Example, brand new battery put on yesterday. Started and stopped several times while taking it to dinner. Then this morning the car was died so I jump the car and drive it around, running great. Then I park the car in driveway and roll up the windows before shutting car off I begin to roll up windows. Rolls up fine at first but then they start slowing down until the car dies altogether.

Something seems to be draining the battery while it runs or sits. Alternator test shows the alternator to be good but I'm curious if moving to a self regulated alternator would be the trick? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Pics of my baby blue attached.




Greetings Jason -

From the information that you have provided, I can only guess that you have a charging problem or a wiring problem. You do not state how the alternator was tested or the actual charging voltage at the battery from the alternator during these tests. Meaningful diagnosis by a competent automotive electrical shop with the correct wiring diagram may be necessary.

Your link to a previous post also states an electrical problem but without the engine stalling due to loss of voltage that you seem to be experiencing. I asked that poster in my reply to him in the link to let us know what he finds but he never shared those results with us so we will never know.

You also state that "tests show the alternator to be good" and then you ask if a different design alternator will correct your problems. I do not understand your reasoning when you ask that if replacing a good working charging design with another design will correct your issues. The original 1968 charging system was quite adequate........unless you have some sort of added on high draw electrical equipment, missing ground wires or wrongly arranged original wiring that you are not revealing to us, proper diagnosis in a logical sequence will required.



July 21, 2015

1962 Continental Horn Issues

Hi Bill,

I have a 62 Continental. The horn does not work. I have replaced the contact brush in the steering column. When I short that brush to ground I hear the relay click. When connect the horns to battery directly they sound off.

Where is the 1)horn relay and 2) breaker and how do I remove them? Are they available; if so how much?

Thank you for your time in this matter


PS: I see the horn breaker is on the primary side of the relay so I guess it looks like the relay is toast. Where is it? How do I remove? How much? Thanks again


Greetings Rick -

The horn relay along with the circuit breaker should be located in the Power Box on the rt. side fire wall on the engine side under the hood. It is unfortunately a cramped location to work in. If you hear a click when you press the horn ring then the relay is a good starting point for diagnosis. An excellent drawing of the circuit and wire colors is shown on page 10-68 in the 1961 Lincoln Shop Manual. If you jump the black /yellow wire to the black wire at the relay, The horns should sound if the relay is receiving power from the breaker and if a click is heard inside the relay when you press the horn ring the relay is very likely faulty internally. These parts are removed by observing and removing their mounting fasteners and wiring connectors. Disconnect the battery first as a precaution. George will include a copy of the page 10-68 along with availability and prices of these two parts in our reply. Good luck with an easy repair.



July 13, 2015

1977 Mark V Questions & Update


I've never seen somebody so devoted to helping others with their passion. I truly love my Mark V and I'm glad to read so many helpful comments posted on your blog! You're helping to keep these treasures rolling and all of us grinning.

Here's my question:

The heat setting of my Mark's A.T.C. doesn't give me any blower function. I get great heat in defog but the fan shuts off only in Heat.

Where is the location of the C.E.L.O. on the 1977 Mark V with 7.5L? What other functions does this switch provide?

I also see some vacuum hoses going into what look like two ported vacuum switches, one directly on top of the thermostat housing and the other in front of that, by the distributor. What are the functions of those P.V.S.' as well?



Hi Dack -

We are pleased that you enjoy the blog but it is more than just a passing interest for me. The blog is available for our already loyal customers and to further promote Lincoln Land in a way to develop our customer base.

The cold engine blower lockout switch on your 1977 MkV with the 460 cid engine is located on the intake manifold ahead of the carburetor. It is integral with the temperature switch. The plug is D shaped and the wire for the blower delay portion is yellow with a white stripe. If you have correctly diagnosed this as your problem, great ....but we find that this switch is rarely ever the cause of " loss of blower" in the Heat position with a warm engine. If you are doing your own repairs and wish to diagnose this and learn about other engine controls such as the engine vacuum controls, a proper FoMoCo shop manual is a must as the vacuum controls can be confusing with the many designs during the model year. The manual explains many of these questions at length. Contact us if you need further information on your blower issue or if you would need any manuals.





I appreciate your detailed response. I couldn't find this information anywhere on the Internet!

I've found the switch and it is functional. I've narrowed it down to the fact that there is low voltage to the primary side of the EVR solenoid. If I short the wires on the secondary side, the blower and ATC function normally! The Ford wiring diagrams sure don't make it very easy to trace but it can be done in time.




Dack -

It sounds like you are on the right track now due to the correct diagnosis on your part. We of course have the necessary repair parts for you when you need them.


July 1, 2015

1966 Continental Brake Light Issue

Hi Bill,

I love your blog! You are so thorough in explaining your answers to the many varied questions. Now I have one I hope you can help me with.

I have a 66 Continental Convertible that has a weird brake light problem. It seems that the passenger side brake light doesn't light at the same brake pedal pressure as the brake light for the driver's side. A somewhat light pressure on the brake pedal that is enough to brake the car to a stop from a slow to moderate speed brings on the driver side brake lights, but the passenger side brake lights only light when a very firm pedal pressure is applied. All the turn signals work properly, as do the tail lights.

Looking at the electrical drawings, it seems like there is only one brake light switch circuit (unless there has been some undocumented modifications,during production or by an owner over the years).

Thanks in advance for any suggestions of things for me to check.



Hi Robert -

Sounds like News of the Weird! Sometimes though it doesn't take too much to upset a circuit. You are correct, more brake pressure can't send more voltage to the right brake lights. Two possibilities come to mind though. First make sure that all of the brake lights are on and have the same brightness when they DO work. The bulbs on one side may be incorrect for the car. Second there may be a bad ground at the right side bulb location or a bad connection at any switch or relay that leads to the right brake lights. The circuit for the turn signals, four way flashers and brake lights on the 1966 Lincoln is complicated and can be difficult to diagnose. You could check another possibility by applying the brakes slowly and have a helper tell you when the left side illuminates. At this point stop the pressure on the pedal with the left side on and wiggle the turn signal lever in the center ( neutral ) position area and have your helper observe for the right side to light up. If it does, the turn signal switch could be internally faulty or if you have the "tilt wheel" option it could be out of adjustment. When diagnosing it is important to concentrate mostly on the wiring for the right side and watch for some previous wiring repair that could be defective. All connections and grounds can be suspect. It is very good that you have the wiring diagram indicating the wire colors. I hope that these suggestions help to lead you to a quick repair.



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