June 13, 2018

1979 Collector's Series AC Concerns

Currently running R-12, Low side return hose between evaporator and expansion valve is getting very cold, although is not freezing up. Its as though there is no air flow across the evaporator when the Automatic Temperature Controller is switched to full cold settings. I am in need of direction. Weather that be through expert advice, the OEM service manual "these customers would more than likely buy the set for the car, it is a new one for their stable". I appreciate any help that i can get to resolve this issue for our patiently waiting customer.

Thank you in advance,

Bradley

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Thanks for your question Bradley...

Do you have a Factory Shop Manual for the Vehicle? Also - I can not pull up your Lincoln Land Account using your Name or Phone Number - what is your Customer Number? Your Customer Number should be the Phone Number on your first Receipt from Lincoln Land without the Area Code - let me know.

Bill -

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Thank you for the speedy response.

I am not in possession of any service manuals for this car other than what ProDemand gives me. Which is little to no information pertaining to the customer complaint.
As far as a login. I do not have one. This is my first interaction with Lincoln Land, as this seems to be the place experts reside.

Look forward to your response.

Bradley

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Hi Brad -

Refrigeration systems need to be diagnosed in a logical sequence with proper equipment. If the proper test equipment, manuals and knowledge are not available at your shop you should do your customer a favor and sublet that job out to a trusted a/c shop.

Having stated the above, what have you checked so far? What are the running system pressures of the Evaporator and the High Pressure Line? Another observation is your statement that when the control is switched to full cold setting no air seems to flow through the evaporator. I can tell you that just because you switched the control to full cold, it does NOT mean that the controls are responding or functioning correctly. You really need to begin by studying the correct FoMoCo shop manual. We have these available. Anyone at our office can arrange this for you.

Sincerely,

Bill

June 4, 2018

1972 Mark Questions....

Hi Bill -

I have a 1972 Lincoln Mark IV that stalls out at stop lights and won't restart. Carburetor size 4300-a 4-v engine size 460. Car has 136000 miles. I've had it for 6 years and I paid 3K. Also head light doors reopen after I've parked the car, 20 minutes later. PS Do you think it could be the hot idle compensator causing it to stall out?

Sincerely,

Vic

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Hi Vic-

I have no information on your car's history, condition or what you have checked so far. However your stalling condition can easily be checked and repaired usually by testing and/or performing all of the common tune up procedures and fuel delivery as well as checking the carburetor and its adjustments. The above suggestions should be a first step.

The common problem of the headlamp doors opening is almost always caused by a leak or a series of leaks on this system's vacuum circuit any where the vacuum is routed. A proper manual is necessary! Valuable diagnosis information as well as diagrams is shown in the factory manuals.

Sincerely,

Bill

1995 Town Car Brake Pedal Height Question

Bill -

I have a '95 Town Car that I bought in December 1996 from a dealer with 27000 miles on it, now 43000 miles after 22/23 years - well I spent most of my working life overseas and never really used it. It stays in the garage with a trickle charger on it. OK I have noticed that the brake pedal is not up where it should be there are no leaks detected and I read all about the master cylinder leaking. The brake fluid cup is 1/2 empty. When the brakes are applied the car stops and the pedal travels about 1/2 way down or so it seems. I spoke to the local Lincoln dealer and he suggested it could be the booster. I said I would drop by some day for him to check. I have not seen anything on the online forums about a defective booster for this problem. Do you have any suggestions? It's been in a heated garage all its life and never saw a midwest winter.

If this has been answered many times over I apologize.

Regards,

Raymond

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Hello Raymond -

A vehicle that sits idle for a long period of time can develop any number of problems in any atmosphere. Your brake problem could also be among other things a master cylinder that is "by-passing" internally due to deteriorated seals etc. Your complete braking system including lines and hoses needs to be examined and not guessed at by a competent technician.

Sincerely,

Bill

1972 Mark ATC Box Questions

Hello Bill!

I'm writing from middle Europe, please excuse me for my English.

My heating system works like it won't accept the signal from the temperature lever. Always heat.

I took out the ATC box and did the test step by step which is in the factory service manual. It passes every single step, except were I test the amplifier and transducer. (the transducer stand alone test is passed too). I attached the page for better understanding. I examined the amplifier panel. All the resistors are ok, the adjustable resistor ok too. So in my opinion is that one of the transistors is misbehaving or destroyed. But because there is no identification number on them, it seems a dead end for me. Can you help me out on this? What kind of transistors are they, and is there any replacement transistor for them?

Best Regards,

Attila
Hungary

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Hi Attila -

If your ATC box is in good order you will need to perform the other tests shown in the manual on other components in the system. For instance if the "sensor string" has an open circuit or the system has a loss of vacuum, the ATC defaults to full heat on most models.

If the ATC box is in fact faulty we can test and overhaul this item for you as this service is a common repair item for us. We do have replacement amplifiers for the boxes in the 66-77 Lincolns and Marks. But again, we can offer you the rebuild service if needed.

Sincerely,

Bill

1963 Sedan Engine Won't Stop When Key Is Turned Off

Hi Bill,

I have 1963 Continental. The problem is that every now and then engine won't stop from the key. I did check from the ignition coil and it has 12 volts on it. Not the 6 volts as normally running. Schematic shows that 12 volts come to ignition coil at starting from the starter relay. I have a shop manual but it shows that the starter relay is located under the fusebox, but mine is in the engine bay. Is the connection different in 63 than the earlier models?

Thanks,

Tomi

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Hello Tomi -

The 12v is sent to the coil from the starter relay only while the engine is cranking in the "start" position of the ignition switch. After the engine starts and the ignition switch is released to the "run" position reduced voltage to the coil resumes from the ignition switch.

Your problem sounds like a faulty starter relay that is intermittently shorted internally. To check this theory unplug the wire at the relay that runs to the coil during the next no shut off event. If the engine then shuts off the starter relay will need a replacement. If the engine continues to run you will need to trace the ignition circuit for a possible short or intrusion from another circuit somewhere.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 4, 2018

1971 Mark III Needs Step By Step Diagnostics From The Factory Shop Manual With Follow Up

Dear Bill,

Thank you for providing this great service.

The auto headlamp dimmer worked erratically and now I can not switch to hi beam anymore. The switch feels worn and I can hear a relay clicking. I struggle to find a replacement foot switch for auto dim. Is the relay located in the switch or elsewhere? If not, is the switch serviceable? The hi beam indicator light does not work. How can one get at it or is there a way to test it? I got the radio refurbished and after putting it back in all dashbord lights are gone. I found the fuse blown. The circuit has shortened out. I struggled to read the wiring diagram I have as there is no index regarding the abbreviations for the wire colors. I found the ash tray illumination working and wires in color which I think are related to the dashboard illumination wiring but I can find nothing going up behind the dashboard! Where do I best start troubleshooting? The rear demister motor runs noisy and now blows its fuse after a short time of running. Is the motor serviceable - and where is it? Do you have to remove the rear seats? If so, how do you do this? The previous owner is unsure about what gas to use for the AC. The pump has a sticker on it saying that it got refurbished. The filler caps seem to sit on adapters. How can I find out about the gas? The heater motor runs noisy. The workshop manual suggests removing the hood, offside wheel, inner wheel arch and then pulling the whole gigantic plastic box containing the AC system through there - a somewhat daunting task! Is it true that you can get at it through the glove compartment? The view to the firewall is obscured there by a thicket of wires and things which look like vacuum motors or control boxes. Thank you so much in advance for your care.

All the best,

Guido

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Hello Guido -

The answer to many of your questions have been answered previously in our blog. Searching for these previous blog questions may turn up some good answers for you. The blog is for our existing customers but we may be able to help you diagnose and find more information for you to work with. You mention your Workshop Manual and a wiring diagram. From the information that you have posted, you may not have the necessary concise and comprehensive manuals to diagnose and repair some of the complicated workings of the Lincolns. Please send us a photo of the front cover of your manual and the wiring diagram that you are using in order that we may advise you further. If you are in need of parts after your issues are diagnosed - we may be able to help.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Dear Bill,

Thank you for your swift reply and the offer to look at my manuals and help with parts supply. Please find enclosed a picture of my manuals and diagrams.

I have read many of your previous blog entries and found a lot of closely related descriptions, however I am not yet quite sure I found all answers to my questions yet. I shall search more thoroughly in your previous answers.

Thanks again and all the best

Guido

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Hi Guido -

Thanks for the photos. Your manuals and wiring diagram appear to be reprints of the original. The original factory manuals consist of five separate publications, and we do offer a version similar to yours that has been condensed down to two volumes. Your questions regarding your manuals and wiring diagrams are valid but they should be asked to your supplier as we do not know how complete those manuals are. My set of five FoMoCo manuals for 1971 seems to answer most of your questions. A drawing of the defogger motor location is also shown on one page if you can't locate it.

From your email it seems that you believe that the radio has caused your instrument lighting to blow a fuse. Inspect all of the wires near the radio in case they were squashed during installation. If nothing is found, unplug the radio and replace the fuse and check if the fuse still blows. If the fuse still blows you will need to look elsewhere in the circuit.

The blower motor is serviced by removing the recirculating door assembly under the dash. It is described in the T-Bird section and not the Mark III section.

We would have no idea what refrigerant was in your a/c if there are no labels or info. under the hood from the previous repair shop.

George Miller at our office can give you the details on any parts you may need.

Good luck with the diagnosis.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 9, 2018

1978 Continental "Buzzing" Under Dash

Bill,

I get a fairly loud intermittent "buzzing" noise coming from underneath the dash after the vehicle has been sitting in the sun for a while, it also occurs when I first start the car up, even in the garage, but only lasts for a very short period of time.

Regards,

Bruce

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Greetings Bruce -

Not being there to hear that noise it is difficult to point a finger at the cause. Someone needs to step out of the car when the noise is sounding to make sure that is actually coming from under the dash. There are so many tones to imagine but I can suggest that you check the transmission fluid level as some C6 transmissions will buzz in neutral with the engine running if they are low on ATF. The transmission fluid must checked with the engine running.

Sincerely,

Bill

In The Market For A Mark III....

Hello Bill -

I am looking at buying a 69-71 Mark III and am wondering if you might suggest which, in your opinion is the best year for this car. I owned a 63 continental convertible years ago and loved that car and know all its quirks. Are earlier models better without any emissions equipment? Are climate control systems about the same in each? Thank you, so glad to find your website.

Bret

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Hi Bret -

There are differences in the 69-71 Mark IIIs, but with any car from this bygone era, condition and odometer reading should be a strong factor as well. The 69's have the much nicer unique heavier wheel covers and the a/c outlets are of a higher quality eye appealing design and material. The 69 was the last year for the sometimes troublesome crankshaft driven power steering pump as opposed to the corporate belt driven units. The a/c was mostly the same on all three years but a/c was optional on the 69's. Most owners ordered the Automatic Climate Control option that proved to be a great operating unit. Most of these a/c units do require maintenance and repair occasionally as does the a/c on all other vehicles. As far as the emission systems go the later ones with the pump did not seem to cause many problems but some emission systems have been removed from the 70/71 Marks that we see today. Outside there are also many very small differences but easiest to see is that the 70/71 has a longer hood to accommodate the hidden windshield wiper blades. Of these three years of Marks there are definitely no bad years. They are all great Continentals. Choosing however really boils down to your own personal desires. Good luck with your search!

Sincerely,

Bill

April 3, 2018

1979 Mark Fans Speed Questions

Bill -

The fan speed control works on all speeds except when you select heat then the fan does not come on at all also air is only Luke warm on economic vent or hi love. Also mode selector is very stiff to Operate. Thank yo,u have purchased from you in the past - you guys are great! I do have the Factory Shop Manuals.

Michael

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Hi Michael -

The inoperative blower in the " HEAT " mode sounds very likely to be the very popular failure of the EVR relay ("Electro Vacuum Relay").

The EVR operation is explained on page 36-74-2 of your FoMoCo factory manual. The wiring diagram is on page 36-74-5 and the location drawing is on page 36-74-9. We can usually rebuild these if they prove faulty or replace with a good used one. Have this item diagnosed and let us know what you may need.

Sincerely,

Bill

1972 Mark IV - AC Questions

Hello Bill,

I have a 72 Mark IV. The AC is acting up since I bought it. Sometimes it works great, others it goes on and off like it's reached temp, then decides it hasn't. I'm not sure where to start. It appears as thought the compressor and associated units are working properly, I suspect it's just not getting accurate input from the controller and/or any thermostats that regulate the system. What's the most common issue and where would I start?

Thanks in advance,

Michael

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Greetings Michael -

The Automatic Climate Control systems of this era are very complicated and do require much patience and a very good understanding of how they operate in order to repair it yourself.

You do not provide very much information (for me to work with) as to what your Mark IV's ATC is or is not doing. If you have the correct FoMoCo factory manuals you should however begin by reading them carefully and understanding how the system operates. Next you can perform the diagnosis procedures that are shown in the Manual. Many vehicles that we service at Lincoln Land have two or more issues. Since you ask, I will list some of the common Control issues that we see and repair here at our shop. Keep in mind that the refrigeration section is of course separate from the ATC control system and could also be inoperative or weak. Be advised however that there really is no single item that is a more common fail item than the others. When you can provide more information for us we may be able to lead you much closer to the problem area or areas.

ATC Box (internally)
Range Relay
High Blower Relay
Blower Motor
Blower Motor Resistor
Main Control Switch
Sensor String
Any vacuum motor (that operate the mode doors) and the blend door
Poor wire contacts or burnt wires connections at certain circuits

If the ATC system has been tampered with or altered previously, It will need to be restored in order to diagnose properly. We have the ability to supply or service most faulty items that you prove to be faulty. If there are certain parts that you are unable to test, we can offer to test them here if you wish. Good luck to you with the testing and a speedy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

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