May 15, 2015

1989 Town Car AC Questions

Hello Bill,

I have a 1989 Lincoln Town car that blows cool air when it wants to. I read the post from Justin in VA ( Permalink) which is pretty close to my situation except my car's AC would turn on randomly, but most likely at start up. Here's the basis for all the following scenario: it is 85 degrees outside (and probably hotter in):

Scenario 1:
If I cold start the car, leave on Park, turn the AC on (setting on Panel) with the temp set to lowest, the compressor will very likely cycle once, maybe twice, (cold air through the vents) then stops cycling (then 85 degree air vent plus some humidity). Switching back to Vent then back to AC/Panel, the compressor won't cycle.

If I redo the scenario 1 by turning the engine off then on, the compressor won't even cycle once.

Scenario 2:
If the car is running and I am at constant speed, and turn on the AC, I get the same scenario as above. The compressor just won't cycle more than twice.

Please note that once, while I was testing scenario 1, going from AC/Panel to Vent on the climate control dash, the car stalled.

I think I must have a vacuum leak, but then, if I did have a leak, wouldn't the compressor keep cycling at least when I am on idle (scenario 1), like Justin in VA?

I have tested the following for leaks:

- Vacuum canister (aka Coffee Can): perfect vacuum seal; holds 25 inHg for minutes...
- Cruise Control servo: bad leak there; have isolated by sealing the hose going from vacuum manifold on the firewall to the latter, re-tested scenario 1 with same results. I will replace the servo anyway but looks like it is not the issue there.
- Hose going to coffee can from firewall: odd seal here. Anything above 5 inHg is immediately lost, then vacuum is held at 5 inHg pretty well: should it be tight at higher vacuum?
- The actual AC freon pressure (134a) is super tight with the right pressure on both High and Low at the end of a compressor cycle

Of course, documentation is hard to come by so anything you can send my way would be greatly appreciated. Here are some questions you may be able to answer:

- Define holding a vacuum: is loosing 1 inHg in 1 minute qualifying as tight?
- I have located one check valve on the AC on the accumulator. Is there another one?
- What actually triggers the compressor to cycle? is there a vacuum servo in charge of that?

Thanks in advance.

Nic

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Nic -

Do you have a set of the correct Factory Shop Manuals, a set of AC gauges and prior refrigeration experience?

Bill

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Hello Bill,

Thanks for responding so fast. To answer your questions:

Q1: no unfortunately I don't have the manuals. I had the car for less than a year now. The previous owner did update from r12 to r134a most of the ac high and low pressure parts. I still have his phone number. I will give him a call. Maybe he has an idea.

Q2: I would say I am intermediate level. I know more than the basics and the equation of perfect gas PV=nRT.

Q3: yes I do have AC gauges with the proper r134a adapters. I can monitor both high and low pressure when that silly compressor is kind enough to run.

Let me know what you have in mind. I can take pictures and/or shout a small movie for better diagnostics. Let me know what works.

Again, thanks so much.

Nic

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Hello Nic -

Thanks for the additional information regarding the a/c on your 1989 Lincoln Town Car. I will advise you that unless you have plenty of time on your hands, you will not get too far without a proper Shop Manual. These manuals contain wiring diagrams and vacuum schematics for the Automatic Climate Control as well as how most of it operates etc. There are two basic sections for the HVAC system. They are a control system and a refrigeration system.

I will answer your questions from your first email to us. Loosing 1in of vacuum 1 minute after engine shut off is not excessive. Loosing 1in per minute however will soon deplete the vacuum which may indicate enough of a leak to cause operating problems at certain acceleration levels. The accumulator tank does not have a vacuum valve on it. The vacuum check valve for the controls is located on the engine side of the firewall at the rear of the engine. The a/c compressor clutch normally cycles on suction pressure according to system refrigerant pressures. This cycling switch is located on or close to the accumulator tank. This sw. also serves as a low pressure cut off sw. and an ambient cut off sw. during cold weather. There is also a Wide Open Throttle relay that will disengage the compressor for certain acceleration demands. I have no idea if your refrigeration system has the correct charge of refrigerant nor do I know the system running pressures. We hope that this information helps you decide to get a hold of a maintenance manual.

Sincerely,

Bill


May 14, 2015

1969 Mark III Cold Start Issue & Updates

Hi Bill -

Have a hard time starting when cold. Butterfly closes, fast idle works etc., but takes forever to start. When warm it starts up with no problem.

Ed

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Greetings Ed -

Some automotive issues are really tough but this one sounds like an easy fix. Since you provide no other information regarding the vehicle maintenance history or if any thing at all was done recently to correct this "hard start cold" condition I can only start by asking you when the last full basic tune up was performed on your Mark? What condition are the points, condenser, wiring and spark plugs in? Maybe all that you need to do is a tune up.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill -

Thanks for the response. The car was tuned up last August and runs great and starts great when warmed up.

When I add a small amount of starting fluid in the carb when cold, and starts right up?

Having another mechanic take a look.

Ed

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Hi Ed -

Thanks for the new information. If you need to prime the carburetor when cold for a fast start there are several items for you to check. The choke butterfly should not only be closed when cold but should have enough adjustment to be closed fully while cranking a cold engine as well. If not adjusted correctly the valve can flutter or open slightly while cranking thus supplying a leaner unwanted mixture to the engine. Todays modern fuels that are laced with ethanol evaporate from the carburetor faster therefore the longer that a vehicle sits unused, the longer the engine will crank to refill the carburetor. At this time the fuel flow and pressure to the carburetor could be tested as per the manual. If the flow is low because of a weak fuel pump or a plugged up fuel filter etc. and cannot replenish the fuel bowl fast enough the engine of course will need to crank much longer in order to start. It is also important to remember that old fuel does not ignite as fast as when it was fresh. I am assuming that your plugs are gapped correctly and that your dwell setting and timing were adjusted as per the specifications. These items are very important for a cold engine to fire up easily but lesser important when the engine has been started and warm.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 13, 2015

1970 Mark III, No Spark

Hello Bill,

I have a 70 Mark 3 and have had some starting issues lately. Went through two rebuilt carbs and finally ended up with a new Edelbrock. Installed the new carb and no start. Did many of the usual checks and determined the carb was good to go, but no spark. Ran a jumper wire directly from the battery to the positive side of the new coil and boom, she fired right up. So, that being the case, do I likely have a bad voltage regulator? Alternator? Or ignition switch? Seems the coil is getting no or weak power from its source. If I remove a plug and crank the motor I do get spark, but it seems weak.


Thanks in advance!

Steve

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Hello Steve -

From your description, it does seem that you have no power to the coil from the start/run circuit. When the key is rotated to the Start position power is sent from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid that is mounted on the starter. The solenoid engages the starter and at the same time sends full 12v to the coil for easier starting while cranking. After the engine starts and the key is released to the Run position, power is then sent from the ign. sw. to the coil via a resistor wire which is installed (buried) in the wiring harness under the dash assy. The resistor wire drops the coil voltage to a lesser voltage so that the points do not burn out. Power to the ignition sw. is through a wire that is attached with the battery positive cable that attaches to a connection at the starter. A fuse link is also built into this wire behind the engine from the starter to the ign. sw. You may have an electrical disconnect or burnout somewhere in the circuit or a bad ign. sw. etc. Good places to look for wiring problems are in the harness at the back of the engine to the starter and coil. In any case the power path for this circuit will need to be carefully tested for continuity in order to pinpoint the problem. To do that properly a correct wiring diagram will be very necessary for you or your technician to follow. We stock many parts that you may need for this and other repairs. Let us know what you find.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 12, 2015

1965 Starting Issues & Follow Up

Hey Bill,

Having issue with my 65 Continental. I recently drove it to the gas station, filled up with Shell premium gas. Car ran fine. I drove probably about 30 minutes around town then, park to visit a friend, an hour later started the car put it in reverse from his driveway and it died This went on for about 10 minutes, finally had to tow the car home. After a few hours I pulled and checked the fuel filter, it was clean. Need your help.

Joel -

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Joel -

Trying to diagnose your problem from here and provide suggestions for you is futile without more information. You don't indicate if the car is recently out of storage or newly purchased etc. Was any recent work done on the engine such as a tune up, carburetor work etc.? Was it actually running perfectly before this issue appeared or? You found that the fuel filter was not plugged but the in tank pick up tube screen could be plugging. All that I can determine from the information that you have provided is that you will need to check all of the basic tune up items pertaining to ignition and fuel. However, it does sound like the carburetor air fuel mixture could be upset and causing this condition or a major engine vacuum hose has become disconnected. A competent technician should be able to quickly pinpoint the problem for you.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Bill,

The car was running fine, it had driven for 2 days the problem started. The carb was rebuilt, new plugs, pretty much the whole engine was rebuilt.

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Joel -

The new information that you sent does not tell me very much more or help at all in the diagnosis. I cannot diagnose that kind of problem from here without any real on scene information. All you really are saying is that something is wrong but it can't be wrong because it was already done. You have only checked one item, the fuel filter so far. Sometimes a technician needs to "backtrack" in order to diagnose a problem. Follow the basic tune up advice in my original reply regarding ignition (points, condenser, distributor etc.) carburetor and fuel supply testing as well as the other suggestions that I have stated. Someone knowledgeable will need to do some meaningful on scene diagnosis to pinpoint the problem. One final thought.....Is it possible that you somehow received a bad tank of fuel?

Sincerely,

Bill

May 4, 2015

1966 Continental Exhaust Manifold Questions

Hi Bill -

I have a 66 Continental with a damaged passenger side exhaust manifold gasket that's leaking. I was hoping for some advice on changing the gaskets with the motor still in the car. Thanks.

Dave

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Hi Dave -

The removal and installation of the exhaust manifold can be as easy as it looks or may require removal of the head because of bolt or stud breakage etc. The amount of difficulty could be dependent on the vehicle history and when the manifold was last removed as it could have been over tightened at some point in time. Of course we do not have this history information so you may need to find out by attempting to loosen the parts in order to find out. Every disassembly seems to be different in some way from the last. I would advise using penetrating oil and quality six sided sockets or wrenches that are tight fitting and not worn out. If you determine that the head does indeed need to be removed you may want to, depending on the present overall condition of the engine consider doing a valve job. This should include planing the manifold attaching area. More information can be found on the internet on the subject of exhaust manifold removal as many owners and mechanics have been faced with this problem. We have gaskets and new brass fasteners available at Lincoln Land to make assembly and future disassembly easier for you.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 1, 2015

1965 Continental Gear Shift Issues

Hi Bill,

I enjoy reading through your blog. I have owned this car since 1997 and mostly perform repairs on my own. I have a gear shift issue that I cant seem to diagnose, perhaps you can provide some guidance.

I shifted into R and backed out of garage, then was unable to go forward in any gear (reverse still worked). After about 10 minutes of going through all the shift points I eventually was able to move the car forward back into the garage (not sure which shifter position worked). The trans was serviced several years ago when i had drive shaft repaired - all has worked well since servicing except for Park - the car has difficulty holding park on a surface with any incline. Any advise you can offer is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Rob

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Greetings Rob -

The issue that you are describing is not uncommon and is not only inconvenient but is not a safe condition for you to drive with. The transmission can jump out of Park to Reverse if the vehicle is left idling and unattended. To begin someone qualified will need to carefully inspect the shift linkage starting at the transmission levers through to and up the steering column to the shift lever. All of the pivot points and any bushings can be a suspect. It is possible to locate several faults, therefore the total looseness of all of the faults that are found will govern the amount of unwanted movement in the linkage. In addition, this year of Lincoln has a very important bushing in the lower area of the column that may well be worn out and require replacement. This bushing could be a large part of your problem. At this time you would be well advised to inspect your engine and transmission mounts as they help hold the engine and transmission assembly along with the shift linkage to the correct operating position as designed during all engine torque conditions. We have new parts available here at Lincoln Land to correct these issues properly. After your inspection, call our office and ask to speak to Al. He will guide you further if necessary and suggest the correct parts that you need in order to correct this condition.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 29, 2015

1969 Mark III Blower Motor Questions & Response

Bill,

I am currently working on the HVAC system on my 1969 Continental Mark III. I have read many of your posts and have learned and used a lot of your advice for my car. My car has the Automatic Climate Control and has a funny noise coming from the blower motor. From what I have learned so far it sounds very much like a bad bearing in the blower motor. My shop manual is not very clear on the removal of the blower motor.I have gotten as far as the recirculation diverter valve loose but the problem is I cannot seem to fully remove the valve assembly. It gets stuck about halfway of its travel coming out. I tried and tried to somehow find a way on how to properly remove the valve without damaging it but I had no luck. It would be great if you could lend me some of your advice and knowledge on how to remove it fully.

Thank you for your time and I would love to hear back from you!

Jett

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Hi Jett -

The complete re-circ. assembly needs to be removed for access to the blower removal and not only the valve. This is probably what you are actually referring to. There is one vacuum and one electrical connector to unplug as well as the removal of six screws. The whole unit is then carefully pried from the original body caulking and rotated and pulled as necessary for removal. The removal of the glove box liner and the two screws for the fuse box and allowing it to pivot out of the way will allow you to see the operation much better. You may need to carefully observe and then loosen or remove some other component etc. that are blocking the path of removal. I have no other removal tips as I have never had any problems removing this assembly. The factory manual is short on the subject but there are some drawings to be found in the Heat/A/C section. Because of the removal labor, replacement of the motor with a new or one with good bearings is advised. We should have one available for you.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Bill,

Thank you very much for your reply. As it turns out I had to remove the ATC box and temporarily slightly bend the fuse box support to remove the recirc. Door assy. I then removed the blower motor only to find that I had indeed had a bad bearing and that my squirrel cage was the round top style. I see on your Lincoln land website that the only blower motor you sell is for a flat top squirrel cage. Do you recommend I buy a flat top squirrel cage to fit a blower motor that requires it or do you have a blower motor that is compatible with a round top. If you don't do you know where to get one and what is the part # for it. Once again thank you very much for your reply, it helped me very much.

Sincerely,

Jett

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Greetings Jett -

Thanks for the update and I am real pleased that we were able to help. Yes there were some variations for the 69-71 Marks regarding blower motors and wheels. Call our office and ask to speak to Al. Refer him to your recent blog post. We should be able to find correct parts that will work fine for you as the availability of these parts is constantly changing. Al is aware of this and he is very good at sourcing hard to find items from the aftermarket as well as our inventory. Do not throw out any of your used blower motor parts as they may be needed for rebuilding in the future.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 27, 2015

1979 Mark V Oil Suggestions

Hi Bill,

I recently purchased a 1979 Mark V, do you recommend synthetic oil and at what weight..

Thanx,

John

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Hello John -

Congrats on your Mark V purchase. If you have a nice Clean, Quiet engine in Good running order that uses (burns) not much or minimum oil between scheduled oil changes, a good brand of premium high detergent 10-30 motor oil for normal summer driving or 10-40 motor oil for high speed hot weather driving will be a good choice. Synthetic oil is even a better choice for a clean good running engine. Unfortunately, no brand or weight of any oil will repair worn out parts inside of any engine. This opinion is only my opinion though, many other opinions can be found all over the internet in automotive forums.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 24, 2015

1971 Mark III Emission Tube Questions - Progress Update

Hi Bill,

My name is Dan. I picked up a couple of pieces from John that have helped me along with my 71 Mark III. Having redone the doors and electronics in there,along with the signal flasher via epoxy magic I reconditioned the interior wood all around and have now moved on to the engine, vacuum and emission systems; finding lost grounds, seized
washer pump, leaky vacuum canisters, a few lines that needed new rubber; reconditioned the power steering, vacuum air canisters and lines and emission air pump in need of some serious lube. Redid all the water lines, rad and air conditioning rad and so I am thinking this is looking like the clean up of the day having resolved about 5 inoperable accessory problems. Now I would like to deal with the emission tubes on
the back of the heads Bill. I saw some reference to these from your blog information about these tubes . Thank you for the great resource. From the wisdom I've garnered from your site, 18 months into my 71 Mk III adventure, I say you are a man of knowledge for sure when it comes to these beastly babies. What a delight the way big metal indulges luxury with the last of a bread. Anyway, when you remove the pipes from the block; I am thinking they are pressure fit from what you were saying; so just twist them off Bill? Then refit a pressure type connector back into the outlet. They are not threaded are they Bill?

I know you mentioned the option of seal these but I was thinking that I may as well put it back into the system as original for now anyway. I did have a lot of success reconditioning all the auxiliary canisters in the system. Or would you say save the effort to spin the air pump and save emissions that way Bill.

Thanks again and have a great day.

Dan

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Hi Dan -

Good to hear that you are doing so well in the restoration of your Mark.

You are correct, Those emission pipe ends merely insert snuggly into the heads and are held in tight with a finger clamp and bolt that is similar to the speedo cable installation into the transmission. They should pull out easily with the removal of the hold down bolt. As mentioned in previous posts you can restore to original ( if you have the necessary good parts ) or you can remove the whole system along with the tubes. Push in plugs that are a version of frost plugs for the block but smaller are available for the elimination of the tubes into the heads.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 23, 2015

1976 Mark IV Dash Disassembly Questions

Hey Bill,

My name is Harley and I recently bought a 1976 Lincoln Continental Mark IV. I need to remove the dashboard to rewire the radio, which is the part I know. The part I don't know is how to remove the dashboard's wood-grain plate. I have tried all that is obvious to me and I would appreciate it if you could help me with this!

Thank You

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Greetings Harley -

Congratulations on your recent purchase.

The step by step procedures with drawings are shown in section 33 and 35 of the factory set of shop manuals for removal of the radio and the dash cluster area. It is quite lengthy and well written. If you are planning on doing your own repairs etc. on your Mark IV, a set of manuals would be a great plus for this and future procedures . We may be able to arrange to print up and send to you only these specific sections for your car. Call our office and ask for George. He is aware of your email and will be able to arrange a print up on the information that you need for this dash board removal work and rewiring that you are now doing.

Sincerely,

Bill

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