June 14, 2017

1979 Continental Sedan - New Owner Questions....

Hi Bill -

Recently I had to buy a Collectors Series ;) The car is a survivor with some flaws that I am addressing now. With two of them I could need some help: 1) the drivers side vent window does not go down properly. Instead of moving down, it is tilting forward and blocking. The vent is loose as you can take it by the upper end and tilt it in direction forward/afterward. When you press the vent to the main glass manually, the window will go properly through the whole cycle. I opened the door and found a round black piece of plastic that seems to have had a bolt in the center that is now broken. As well I found something like a green tip that might fit to the black plastic, broken as well. On the passenger side, the black round plastic was broken inside the door, however, the green tip is still in its place in the glass and the window is working properly (for the moment). Do you know what part I'm talking about? I did not find it in the manual and I don't know how its called or if there is any replacement. If yes, do you sell it? 2) When I got the car I tested everything, including power door lock. Unfortunately, the rear door locked and stuck. Now it does not open. How can I open the door to get access to the mechanism when the door is closed and locked? Or is there a way to lubricate without the door trim panel, as I cannot remove that with the door closed... Thanks for your help!

Severin

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Hi Severin -

Very nice choice of Lincoln. The dropping vent windows option is a nice extra but is known to give their share of problems after all of these years have passed since 1979. If a repair seems too complicated for you, we can repair some of these issues such as you describe depending on the extent of damage. We also may be able supply a used assembly if necessary. Please give George a call at our office for details.

Your power door lock issue sounds like the common seized Power Actuator problem. If you were to send your actuator in to us for testing we may be able to repair it or if necessary supply a new one. If you cannot trick the lock to open with the aid of an assistant operating the switch as you try to coax a release of the lock you may need the services of AAA or an experienced automobile " lock out " service. Again, call George at our office for further information etc.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 26, 2017

1963 Lincoln Continental Running On After Being Turned Off

Bill -

I just had my 1963 Lincoln convertible serviced. They changed the oil, complete brake job, changed two core plugs, and got the air conditioning system operating. We inherited this car and before taking it to get it serviced the engine did not make much noise. I just received the car back yesterday. I went on two drives and when I turned the car off, the engine started to rattle and make banging noises. What is the potential issue here? I have also been putting in 87 ethanol free gas, could that be an issue? I have been concerned putting in any gas mixed with ethanol as I am pretty sure the car has not been modernized to take any percentage of ethanol fuel, even fuel mixed with 10% ethanol. Any help and recommendations are appreciated.

Will

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Hi Will -

Your description sounds very strongly like the engine has too fast of an idle when at operating temperature and is Dieseling a.k.a. Running On instead of shutting off immediately when the key is turned off. Show your mechanic the problem. It may turn out to be a simple carburetor adjustment that he can handle in a very short time. This is a common occurrence with all high compression engines. That engine should be using Premium high octane fuel.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 25, 2017

1969 Mark III Leaking Oil, Follow Up and Reply....

Hello Bill,

My name is Gianni and I have a concern regarding my timing cover on my 460. I have the crank driven pump which I recently rebuilt and works great, and had replaced my timing cover with another because of some damage my original had. I took all precautionary steps to get a good seal on the cover, and cover to pump seal, but I have a rather large leak coming from this area. It looks to be coming from the back of the power steering pump and is definitely engine oil. I can still drive around, but have to check the level frequently. Do you know what could be wrong, the pump doesn't leak, but the seal behind it seems to be faulty?

Thanks

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Greetings Gianni -

Several possibilities for your engine oil leak come to mind after reading your email. These are.... the crankshaft oil slinger was omitted during installation of the front cover. This could allow engine oil to scour the front seal with excess oil splash that the seal was never designed to handle. Next is the possibility of .......An incorrect or damaged front cover (at the seal area) was installed. This would cause a poor sealing situation. Another possibility is that the special seal between the front cover and the p/s pump was damaged, not installed at all or the original was not replaced with a new one and was already severely aged and ineffective after the removal and replacement procedure. What are the possibilities for any of the above suggestions?

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill -

It's hard to say? I installed a new rubber seal to the cover and made sure everything was prepped cleanly. Are 1969 covers different from those that have the 1968 year stamped on them? They looked exactly the same.

Gianni

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It's hard for you to say?? It's even harder for me to say.....from here. The front covers for 460s with crank mounted p/s pumps should all be the same. Did we supply this cover or any other parts? The facts are that if every thing was prepped cleanly and assembled correctly and you have an oil leak at that area as you described, the pump will need to be removed again and that area inspected. Are you sure that the leak is not somehow coming from higher up from the rear of the pump? What about the possibility of the oil slinger omission that was suggested to you in my first reply?

Bill

May 23, 2017

1979 Continental Sedan Battery Drain

Bill -

I have a 1979 Lincoln Continental Sedan and this last year it seems to be draining its battery while it is sitting. I put a meter on the battery and it reads 12.7 as soon as I turn off the car. While it is running it is 13.8. I know newer cars the alternator produces 14.3, but not 100% sure on this one. It seems to take about an hour to drain it down to 12.2 where at this point the starter will only click, which I expect. If I boost it at this point, it fires right back up. I should notice observations at this point. A new behaviour is; I can wind down the windows and use the radio with the key off as well as pop the trunk & run the heater blower. My guesses at this point are: a relay somewhere or the alternator regulator is bad. I can continue to drive the car and I just uncouple the negative when I stop for any period of time. Any thoughts or advise would be appreciated as I'm grasping at directions to search.

Tom

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Hi Tom -

If your readings are correct, 12.2 volts at the posts of a good battery is more than enough to crank and start that engine. After turning off the engine it is not abnormal for the voltage to drop somewhat from 12.7. I suspect that the battery is aged or faulty and therefore a load test at an automotive electrical shop would be necessary to verify the battery condition. If you suspect the alternator or a regulator, they alone could be disconnected during a period of non use to prove or disprove an internal electrical draw. Of course, all other cable connections must be correct and in good order.

After the above electrical draw is corrected and the newer accessory power problem that you have described still exists you will need to trace that circuit with the use of the proper manual and wiring diagrams. This type of diagnosis is best done in a logical sequence by a technician with this type of electrical experience.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 16, 2017

1967 Continental Coupe Running Issues & Update

Hi Bill,

I drive my Lincoln around for about 10 minutes with no problems, then eventually the accelerator starts to give up and when I press the accelerator it makes a whining sound. When its on idle it doesn't make the whining sound, only when I accelerate. I have to pull over and let it rest for 10 minutes in order to drive it again for 10 minutes and encounter the same problem. Any ideas on what can cause this? I have an electric ignition source too wondering if that's the reason... please help.

Alex

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Greetings Alex -

The description of your issue really provides me with very little information to even guess what your problem could be. The fact that you also offer no information on what has been already checked or inspected by yourself or your mechanic also adds to my problem in diagnosing.

What does " eventually the accelerator starts to give up" mean?

Whining and squealing suggests something as easy as a loose drive belt or a noisy electric fuel pump (if you have had one installed). If the engine simply stops running after 10 minutes you could be experiencing a plugging fuel filter, a failing fuel pump, old fuel from a contaminated fuel tank etc etc. For all that I know your Lincoln may have been sitting unused and untuned for many years.

Can you supply us with more and helpful information that may lead to some better suggestions for you.

We probably can't help with your after market electronic ignition without having the vehicle here to do our own testing.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Yeah sorry,

Ok so I start my 1967 Lincoln Continental Coupe and it starts up fine. As I get 10 minutes or so into driving normally, when I step on the accelerator it hesitates and very little power is given into the throttle. Also at the same time is makes this weird whining noise only when I press the accelerator. It can idle fine no problem no noise.

If I park it for 10 minute and let it rest then fire it back up it runs and drives fine again for 10 minute or so.

When I step on the accelerator it seems like it rubs on something and makes this whining noise and also shakes sometimes. This all happens after 10 minutes of driving. Before that it drives smooth and accelerator works fine.

I did have the power steering pump and transmission box repaired because of a leak.

How do you think I should start to diagnose this problem.

Thanks -

Alex

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Alex -

I would start by having your mechanic open the hood and inspect the complete accelerator linkage for some sort of interference. You should be aware that some of the linkage on this model is located under the floor at the accelerator pedal. It has a flexible bellows attached to prevent moisture intrusion. The linkage and structure at this location is known to corrode, seize and subsequently cause problems.
Then the accessory engine drive belts should be checked for condition and looseness. This type of problem may require some on scene diagnosis by only an experienced technician in order to pinpoint the issue quickly and correctly. For the next step, the engine should be running and the whining noise should be in the audible stage for you to try to locate the cause during the diagnosis. Your issue could even prove to be a carburetor problem. The above suggestions and my previous reply are the best that I can supply at this point based on the information that you have provided. I also assume that your engine and related engine parts are stock and in good order. Be sure to use extra caution and safety measures around a running engine. Let us know if anything is found during the inspections.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 20, 2017

1969 Mark III Electrical Issues

Hi Bill,

I appreciate all you do to support Lincoln owners! I have a problem with my '69 Mark III. I purchased the car four years ago. A previous owner had disconnected the passenger side window motor from the original wiring and installed his own toggle switch and wiring. He installed it the dash ashtray where the lighter used to be. Pretty crazy but it worked!
I recently had a need to replace the front passenger side glass and decided to try to get the power window functioning with the original wiring and switches. I reconnected the motor to the original wiring. Not to surprising to see that the window would not operate with the door switches. I started pushing and pulling on various connectors. Low and behold, when I squeezed the window motor connector the motor worked using the door switches (driver and passenger switches). I unplugged the connected and adjusted the make and female connectors to improve the connection. Without squeezing the connector the window continued to function.

Once I had everything back together it no longer worked. I removed the metal trim from the door pad and wiggled the switch wires and the switch connector. Window was once again working!

Now I occasionally have a condition when it stops working. The drivers side window is also acting up but not as often. When I operate the power window switches (when the motors are not working) I do hear a click and I are the interior lights dim. I am wondering if this could all be related to a bad relay or a bad ground some where? When working, the motors raise and lower the windows quickly so they appear to be good.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Brent

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Hi Brent -

There are many things that can go wrong with power windows. You have already identified one of them. Why not repair all of those bad connections first instead of wiggling wires and hoping.

We have the wiring diagram available to you at no charge. Sign in as a 1969 Mark III once you're on our Website, go to the REFERENCE - TECH INFORMATION & PARTS DIAGRAMS section and Click on the Wiring Diagram.

Then you can move on to the switches and the other problems one at a time. It does seem from your description of the previous work that you will find much more to discover and repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 17, 2017

1979 Mark V Free Play In Steering

Hi Bill,

I bought a 1979 Mark V December 2016.It has an excessive amount steering wheel free play. After I bought new tiers I had the front end aligned. The only worn part was the left tie rod end, and they replaced both sides. Is there a steering box adjustment to adjust the free play? Driving down a straight road is not good because of the free play. I also have a 1957 Ford Sunliner that has an adjustment screw on top of steering box to adjust the free play. Dose my Lincoln have an an adjustment like that? I haven't been able to find one.You have a great web site.

Thanks for any help,

Lyle

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Greetings Lyle,

You post that the only worn part was a tie rod end and then you state that there is free play in the steering box. Free play in the box can also be caused by worn internal parts. The adjustment on the box will not remove play that is caused by worn bushings etc. within the steering box. In my opinion you will need to visit another front end shop and explain the situation to them. The technician will then inspect your steering box very carefully after a road test and advise you. If you were at our shop at Lincoln Land we would lift your Mark and examine your steering system after road testing. The poor steering is usually caused by the sum of all of the worn parts and looseness. The initial road test by the technician is very important in order to perform correct and complete diagnosis.

Sincerely,

Bill

1959 Will Not Restart When Hot - New Engine Rebuild

Bill,

Restoring a 59 Mark IV. Had the engine professionally rebuilt, preformed break in on motor, but as the car gets warmed up, when I turn the car off - it will not crank back up until the car cools down for 15 minutes. We have replaced coil, points, condensor, temp sending switch was also replace at rebuild.

Signed,

pulling my hair out

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Orlando,

When this happens ALL of the general tune up items need to be verified. As well as the items that you have already tested, checked or replaced this will include battery and all starter and ground cables, starter, spark plugs, carburetor and choke etc. Other possibilities are engine severely overheating or the crankshaft vibration damper slipping and subsequently causing you an incorrect timing reading. If all of the above is in good order it may be time to contact your rebuilder. Good rebuilders will immediately become involved in these situations.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 10, 2017

1978 Mark V High Beam Question

Hi Bill -

Is there a way to manually control the high beams with the switch on the floor in a 1978 Lincoln Mark V? I turn the auto dimmer to off and press the dip switch with my foot and nothing seems to happen. At other times all 4 head lights light up. I do not seem to be able to consistently control them. Alternatively, is there a simple way/fix way to keep them on all the time? I have to drive through some dark streets to get home and do not want to hit a deer.

Thanks in advance,

Dean

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Hello Dean -

You are correct. If you rotate the H/L dimmer rheostat to the extreme position into the auto dim "off " detent position, the system should then be in the manual mode. This will be shown in the owners manual as well as the maintenance manual. There is also a 4 amp in line fuse under the dash that can be pulled as an additional test. If this does not work, the system will need to be diagnosed as per the maintenance manual. I would probably start the testing at the foot switch. We do have owners manuals and shop manuals available for shipping.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 31, 2017

1969 Thunderbird Climate Control Question

Bill,

My 1969 T-bird has only 62k original miles and only blows air through the defroster. How can I repair this problem? The blower motor works great; I just need to control the air, either through the vents, floor defroster, etc. If I need to replace a part, could you let me know which part? Thank you for your advice.

John

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John -

The 68-71 Thunderbird ATC (Automatic Temperature Control) has the exact same system and parts as the 69-71 Mark III. We have parts in stock, and we can also rebuild the servo assembly and ATC Box. You can repair yours with correct diagnosing as per the Shop Manual. Loss of vacuum supply to the controls is a very good possibility from your description. Loss of vacuum on that system will cause the unit to default to the Defrost and Heat in all settings except Off. This could be an easy fix for you.

Sincerely,

Bill

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