April 24, 2015

1971 Mark III Emission Tube Questions - Progress Update

Hi Bill,

My name is Dan. I picked up a couple of pieces from John that have helped me along with my 71 Mark III. Having redone the doors and electronics in there,along with the signal flasher via epoxy magic I reconditioned the interior wood all around and have now moved on to the engine, vacuum and emission systems; finding lost grounds, seized
washer pump, leaky vacuum canisters, a few lines that needed new rubber; reconditioned the power steering, vacuum air canisters and lines and emission air pump in need of some serious lube. Redid all the water lines, rad and air conditioning rad and so I am thinking this is looking like the clean up of the day having resolved about 5 inoperable accessory problems. Now I would like to deal with the emission tubes on
the back of the heads Bill. I saw some reference to these from your blog information about these tubes . Thank you for the great resource. From the wisdom I've garnered from your site, 18 months into my 71 Mk III adventure, I say you are a man of knowledge for sure when it comes to these beastly babies. What a delight the way big metal indulges luxury with the last of a bread. Anyway, when you remove the pipes from the block; I am thinking they are pressure fit from what you were saying; so just twist them off Bill? Then refit a pressure type connector back into the outlet. They are not threaded are they Bill?

I know you mentioned the option of seal these but I was thinking that I may as well put it back into the system as original for now anyway. I did have a lot of success reconditioning all the auxiliary canisters in the system. Or would you say save the effort to spin the air pump and save emissions that way Bill.

Thanks again and have a great day.

Dan

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Hi Dan -

Good to hear that you are doing so well in the restoration of your Mark.

You are correct, Those emission pipe ends merely insert snuggly into the heads and are held in tight with a finger clamp and bolt that is similar to the speedo cable installation into the transmission. They should pull out easily with the removal of the hold down bolt. As mentioned in previous posts you can restore to original ( if you have the necessary good parts ) or you can remove the whole system along with the tubes. Push in plugs that are a version of frost plugs for the block but smaller are available for the elimination of the tubes into the heads.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 23, 2015

1976 Mark IV Dash Disassembly Questions

Hey Bill,

My name is Harley and I recently bought a 1976 Lincoln Continental Mark IV. I need to remove the dashboard to rewire the radio, which is the part I know. The part I don't know is how to remove the dashboard's wood-grain plate. I have tried all that is obvious to me and I would appreciate it if you could help me with this!

Thank You

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Greetings Harley -

Congratulations on your recent purchase.

The step by step procedures with drawings are shown in section 33 and 35 of the factory set of shop manuals for removal of the radio and the dash cluster area. It is quite lengthy and well written. If you are planning on doing your own repairs etc. on your Mark IV, a set of manuals would be a great plus for this and future procedures . We may be able to arrange to print up and send to you only these specific sections for your car. Call our office and ask for George. He is aware of your email and will be able to arrange a print up on the information that you need for this dash board removal work and rewiring that you are now doing.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 22, 2015

1966 Continental Coupe Running And Fuel Pump Issues

Hey Bill,

I was hoping you may be able to help. I have a 1966 Lincoln Continental Coupe dies when shifted out of park or neutral.

I am on my 3rd fuel pump and I am not sure what to do. The first 2 I had placed under the hood near the carburetor. This 3rd one I place right up on the tank by the outlet. It starts great, idols great shifts great then dies. UGGG!

Please help,
Thanks,

Troy

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Hello Troy -

Sometimes these issues can be a challenge can't they. Your symptom of stalling when the transmission is engaged is a common complaint. The problem can be caused by many components however. The biggest failure in many of these repairs is "Incorrect Diagnosis". You seem to believe that you have a fuel delivery issue. Did anyone actually prove your belief with a proper fuel pump pressure and flow test as per the factory maintenance manual? Why do you think that you have a fuel delivery problem? These engines run real well with all of the factory fuel system parts in place and in good working order without electric pumps. Before performing ANY repair though you must be sure that you are on the right track with accurate diagnosis. You need to prove that the engine stalled because of lack of fuel to the carburetor. Because I cannot diagnose the cause from here I can only make some other suggestions for you to consider. Other causes of stalling when engaged in gear could be.......ALL basic carburetor set up and adjustments internal and external (very important), vital ignition maintenance and adjustments ( points, plugs and wires etc.) Be accurate in the diagnosis. Do not guess. Use the factory service manual for diagnosing.

If you do prove for sure that lack of fuel at the carburetor is the problem and that all of the fuel hoses and lines as well as the filters and the fuel tank inlet at the fuel sending unit and pick up in the tank are all o/k, send us an email in that regard and we will respond with more fuel system suggestions. Let us know what you find.

Sincerely,

Bill

1966 Continental Coupe Window Issues

Bill,

I just recently bought a 1966 Lincoln Continental Coupe. I am having issues with the power windows. I can hear the window motors turn on when I push the window switches up. However when I move the switch to roll the windows down nothing happens. This problem is consistent on all 4 windows. I also have to have the switch moved to the bypass position before the switches will operate. I have taken the window motor out on the drivers side to ensure it does work and again the motor on operates when I move the switch to the up position. Can you help me diagnose the problem so I can purchase the correct parts from Lincoln Land.

Thanks,

John

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Hello John -

From your description, it sounds like you are having plastic Gear problems with the motors as well as some switch problems. In your case I suggest that you call Al at our office as he is able to rebuild most of these switches and we are also able to supply parts for the window motor gears if necessary.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 21, 2015

1979 Mark V Fuel Gauge, Sending Unit Questions

Hey Bill,

I have a 1979 Bill Blass Mark V I just bought 4 months ago and the gas gauge doesn't work (not digital). So I jacked the back end up and turned the key to "on." With the sending unit plugged in, the needle moved to almost "E." I unplugged it and the needle didn't move at all. What does all this mean? Attached is a pic of the unit, but I'm perplexed because you can see it only has 2 of the3 prongs. Can it still work if it only has 2 prongs?

Thanks again,

Paul

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Hi Paul -

From your photo I can't determine if your wiring plug has two or three wires to it to match the sending unit. If there is only two wires on the female plug then it is correct and should work. I also cannot see in the photo if one of the male pins is missing or if it is a correct blank off third pin style as designed and is a two wire unit.

The best way to test the fuel gauge circuit is the method that is shown in the1979 factory shop manual. However we find that many of these in tank sending units have due to age corroded badly and require replacement or repair. From the appearance of your tank unit it would not hurt to remove and inspect it. It may be badly deteriorated and/or the float could have developed a leak and rendered it useless. If you do not have a shop manual or the test equipment, we would offer to test your sending unit and advise you further if you could remove it and send it to us. Call our office for more information.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 20, 2015

1972 Mark IV Power Door Lock Issues

Dear Bill,

I'm a proud recent owner of a Lincoln Mark IV from 6-1972.

I have a problem with the power lock system from the doors. The passenger door is stuck and will not be opened by key or by pulling from inside on the knob or door handle. They driver's side can be opened with key although keys are worn out little.

What could be the problem here? I would think that even if a relay or breaker is broken the door should be possible to open by key right?


With kind regards,

‚ÄčAlex‚Äčander

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Greetings Alexander -

Some of these issues can be frustrating and because your car is a recent purchase the fact that you may not know the history of the door lock failure will make it harder to diagnose. This problem can be caused by any one of several faults within the door. The key that you are using could be incorrect for the passenger door because of a previous repair to the drivers or passenger door. There may even be some sort of hidden lock damage inside the door that cannot be seen from the outside if you purchased the car with that door not operating. The power door lock module could be seized inside the passenger door and subsequently causing the lock to become non operative. Does the drivers door power lock operate correctly? The lock mechanism or the remote rods inside the door could be seizing or are maladjusted. Sometimes removal of the lock mechanism and a complete cleaning and oiling of all moving parts can get the mechanism working as new. An experienced inspection of the inside of the door will probably be necessary to find the culprit.

Of course the door will need to be opened in order to remove the trim panel and gain access to the repair therefore you may need to seek the service of a locksmith who can trip the mechanism in order to open the door for you. If you are having a repair shop do the entire repair, that shop may have the proper "lock out" tools on hand. If we can help you further with any parts or advice when you have more information available, call our office and refer to your blog.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 13, 2015

1993 Town Car AC Question & Follow Up

Hey Bill

I was wondering why my 1993 Town Car blows cool AC while I'm driving, but many times if I make a turn I hear some kind of swoosh sound and the AC will then blow hot air. I usually have to perform the AC diagnostic test and the AC will usually blow cool after the test is complete. Any idea?? Thanks

JT

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Hello JT -

Do you not get any display codes from your diagnostic tests? Not being able to hear the actual sound that you describe or where it is coming from, your description sounds much like a faulty Temperature Blend Door Actuator or the Blend Door itself inside the heater/ac plenum. These two items are well known to fail on these systems. The fact that the issue surfaces when you make a turn though leads me to side with a blend door malfunction of some kind. The actual repair can be time consuming and definitely is not for persons that are unskilled in under dash and heater/ac work. Even good automotive ac/heat techs need experience with a few of these to become comfortable with them. If you are planning on doing this repair yourself I would strongly advise you to first get a solid second opinion from a good local a/c technician who is familiar with these systems. While I am quite confident at this point in my opinion, an actual on scene opinion may be more accurate and valuable for you due to the difficult location of the failed parts. If we can be of further help with any shop manuals or repair parts please call our office.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill -

I remember the diag test displaying a 02 and I believe that's the only number it shows. It does sound like extensive work but I really appreciate your email. It is very good advice thank you.

JT

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JT -

Thanks for the quick return information. That code 02 is the fault code display for the Blend Door Actuator module. We are pleased that you enjoy the blog.

Sincerely,

Bill
Bill

March 30, 2015

1963 Continental Battery Drain Issue

Hey Bill!

Something seems to be draining my battery and I haven't been able to determine what it is yet. Maybe u can shed some light?

I've replaced the alternator, voltage regulator, starter solenoid, battery cables and connections, fuses, plus I've even replaced the battery itself.

The car runs and drives but if I don't disconnect the battery when parked in the garage then the battery drains.

I ran the car and disconnected the positive post while car was running and it caused it to shut off.

I'm thinking there's a wiring issue in between the battery, alternator, and voltage regulator. When I replaced them I put the connections exactly where they were on the original parts. Perhaps original owner didn't have them correct in the first place.

My generator gauge light stays on as well.

Any suggestions?

Thank you

Matt

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Hello Matt -

Did you replace those parts to correct that same problem of battery drain? Were any of these parts purchased at Lincoln Land? You don't mention if the battery is being charged properly or not with the correct voltage or not by these replaced parts. In any case, if you suspect a wiring problem you will need to carefully inspect and test your wiring as per the (correct) wiring diagram for your vehicle and repair the faulty wiring as necessary. I would probably start though by disconnecting the alternator from the circuit separately to find out if the battery drain then goes away overnight and then move on to the regulator if the drain still exists. One of the new parts could be defective and causing the battery drain. Meaningful diagnosis with the correct tools and testing equipment along the Shop Manual is necessary to pinpoint most charging and electrical issues. This method also helps to avoid replacing components that are not defective. Let us know what you find out.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 24, 2015

1979 Mark V Electrical Gremlins

Hi Bill,

I'm slowly trying to fix a few electrical gremlins on my recently-purchased 8000-mile 1979 Bill Blass Mark V. The power windows now work fine, and I've moved on to a power seat issue. The driver's side functions correctly in all directions, except none of the switch controls control the function direction they are supposed to control. This is true for both the 2 two-way buttons, and the four-way joystick. For instance, front tilt may instead cause the seat to go rearward, joystick forward may cause the seat to go down. It all seems quite random, and moving a switch in the opposite direction doesn't give the opposite function, but rather a different movement altogether. Needless to say, getting the seat in the correct position is like trying to play a memory game and recall which button does what. (The power lumbar on the side of the seat works fine) The passenger side works exactly as it should by the way.

So my thoughts have been that the motors seem to be all working as intended, and perhaps the issue is the switch itself getting it wires crossed, so to speak. Have you seen this before, and if so is the answer a new switch? Or is there a way the wires going to the seat motor could be plugged in wrong, like if the seat was removed for service and hooked up wrong? I see this can't happen with the switch design in the armrest, as it only connects one way. Can the wires to the seat motor attach in such a way to make this happen? I'm leaning towards the switch itself, even though it does function in an oddball manner, but don't want to throw money at an expensive switch until I have a second opinion.

On an unrelated note, in order to replace a power antenna that just broke on me, do I access it by removing the passenger front tire and front wheel splash shield? The motor still runs when I hit the switch but the antenna doesn't move on its own, so I'm thinking a stripped plastic gear or ripcord strip in there somewhere. Is there a rebuild kit for these like there is for the power window motors? This of course happened AFTER I recently lubed it...Murphy's Law!

Thanks again,

Jim Smithbauer
Interior Design Manager
The Lincoln Motor Company

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Hi Jim -

I have never heard of a power seat switch failing internally and causing all of the functions to still operate but in an incorrect pattern. The wire connections somehow could have been installed incorrectly however during some previous repair inside the armrest near the switch or at the seat drive motors and solenoids. Only a previous owner would know for sure what caused this or when it developed. I don't believe that the vehicle could have been delivered from the factory in this condition without being corrected by the selling Dealer and the original owner. As a first step, these above mentioned connections should be carefully examined and corrected if necessary as per the factory wiring diagrams and electrical plug wiring configurations. The possibility may also exist that an incorrect switch was installed at some point in time as these switches are known to fail. We can assist you with more advice, information or parts after you have investigated the wiring and switch type further.

The power antenna can be accessed for removal as you describe but full removal of the wheel well is not necessary as it is flexible and can easily be folded partly in order to gain access for removal of the antenna after enough bolts are removed. We do have parts available to service these antennas. In addition we can also perform this repair for you if the unit is sent to us.

If you would need wiring diagram information etc. please contact our office and mention your blog inquiry.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 23, 2015

1970 Mark III !@#$% Brake Problem

Bill-

I have a 1970 MK III. Current problem started with what seemed like a bad master cylinder; peddle would go to the floor if you hit it hard.

I took it to my long time mechanic who has been in the business decades, and worked on this car as well as its predecessor 1971 MKIII. He checked all the other brake elements and agreed, the master cylinder should be changed.

I had acquired a "new-old stock" master cylinder that was installed. No improvement.

He observed that the "brake light warning switch" seemed to be leaking. It was replaced with an overpriced after-market unit. No improvement. And question if in fact the replacement unit was defective because it seemed to leak.

Completely by-passed the Sure-Trac system. No improvement.

Rear brakes have been adjusted properly, calipers centered properly, booster rod proper length. No improvement.

System bled numerous times after various steps above; good stream. No improvement.

Installed a brand new master cylinder. SOME improvement; push peddle once and goes almost to floor, push second time and comes up pretty good. But not right.

Paul

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Greetings Paul -

If the system has been bled properly and NO air is remaining in the system the fluid would need to leak out externally and be visible if the pedal goes to the floor. However, if the master cylinder is bypassing internally the pedal will go to the floor and no leaks will be visible and the pedal can be "pumped up" somewhat only to go to the floor again if held down under pressure. Therefore because of your recent experience as you have described I would remove the master cylinder and bench test it for bypassing. You would need to bleed it and seal the outlet ports and then apply pressure to the piston in order to observe if the piston travels to the applied position or not. If it does under heavy pressure it would be bypassing as you are describing because of failed internal seals. Let us know what you find.

We should have proportioning valve parts available if you still need them.

Sincerely,

Bill

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