January 8, 2018

1979 Mark Headlight Switch Questions

Hi Bill....

My 79 Mark V has the autolamp system which allows for auto dimming of the headlights from high to low beam and has the delay feature for the lights to stay on after the car has been shut off. My question is do you set the flag dial to the right and left of the headlight switch with the headlights off on the car?? The reason why I ask is when I turned the lights on the other day and tried to move the flag dials they were both real loose..I am not sure if it is broken and I need to replace the whole switch..If I need to replace he switch do you have a replacement and how much are they??

Thanks,

Bill

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Hi Bill -

Both of those AUTOLAMP adjustment tabs on the headlamp switch can be moved to a new setting at any time with no problems. This operation will be explained in the owners manual as well. You should inspect the switch to find out why these tabs are loose before purchasing a new switch. The fix could possibly be simple and easy to see and repair by yourself. If not we can repair most switch problems for you with the spare parts that we have available or we can special order a new switch if necessary.

Repairing and testing your switch would cost $125.00, and a NEW one (if needed) would be $275.00. After you or your mechanic have checked your switch for a simple fix and find that you need to have it serviced here or a new complete switch ordered please give George a call at our office. In any case, please let us know what you find and good luck with an easy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

January 3, 2018

Worthwhile Tip for collectible Lincoln owners...

Greetings fellow Lincoln owners -

Whether or not you are planning on doing your own maintenance and repairs, the correct FoMoCo Shop Manual and Wiring Diagram set is a must for you to have at your side. The pluses for having this information on hand cannot be over emphasized. They can save you many hours of confusion, along with saving you from replacing parts that are not faulty, etc. However if you are having a local favorite technician diagnose and repair your Lincoln, he or she will be delighted to have these manuals available as a reference as they could speed up the procedures and even save you many dollars and time wasted. Used correctly they can be the most valuable tools in your tool box.

The factory manuals have changed over the years and after approximately 1967 the detailed wiring diagrams were a separate publication and therefore needed to be obtained as a separate item by the Dealers from FoMoCo. In some years, there are even separate vacuum diagrams to aid in your repair.

If you would like more information on these manuals please contact George at our Lincoln Land office at any time...727 446 2193...

Sincerely,

Bill

December 29, 2017

1977 Town Coupe New Owner Heater Question

Hi Bill,

I just purchased a 1977 Lincoln Continental Town Coupe and was testing the heater core. The heat works however it only blows out under the dash. Is there a way to make it blow out of the vents or is that now possible?

Thanks,

Roark

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Hi Roark -

That ATC system is an excellent fully automatic control unit. As it is set up it will not blow heat from the a/c vents. The system will switch from a/c vents to floor ducts automatically as necessary. It will however blow heat from the Defrost ducts if the selector is set on Deice or defog. This ATC can be complicated and difficult to repair and understand. If you are performing your own diagnosis and repairs the Factory service manuals and wiring diagrams are a "must have" for you. If you need any manuals, we can arrange this for you. Please call George at our office and he will look after this for you. We wish you good luck with your "new" 77 Lincoln.

Sincerely,

Bill

November 30, 2017

1968 SEDAN NEW OWNER AUDIO SYSTEM QUESTIONS

Hello Bill,

Just picked up a 1968 4 Door Sedan from Portland, Oregon. This car only has 27K original miles, very nice find indeed. It has a AM radio stock, and my buddy found a AM-FM rebuilt radio, very nice shape. It also has the optional Amplifier box. We are not sure where this Amplifier mounted-I guess under the dash within reach to turn both knobs. Looks like it should have some sort of bracket to mount under the dash. There are 2 small holes on the underside of the Amplifier and faint outlines of a bracket that used to be there. I do not see this Amplifier anywhere in the 68 brochure I have. Looked at dozens of cars on the web, but none have this option. I have photos of both the radio & amplifier with corresponding wiring if needed.

Thanks,

Blake

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Greetings Blake -

What you have sounds like the ( available at that time ) FM Multiplex adapter option the converts your FM radio section to a stereo sound FM system. It also adds additional left and right as well as front and rear speakers. The system was made by the Bendix Corp. and had a high quality warm sound when new and in good working condition.

The adapter mounted on the carpet at the transmission hump with the use of a special bracket set up.

Sincerely,

Bill

November 28, 2017

1973 Mark New Owner Questions

Hi Bill -

I bought a Mark IV Continental last week, but it broke down on the journey home, after 100 miles. It was running very well, for around 80 miles, but then, after a coffee break at motorway services (I am in the UK by the way) it started misfiring slightly. This increased over the next few miles, and it also started backfiring too, then it eventually lost power. The engine doesn't smoke, but what with me only having just bought the car, I have no history of how well it ran, except for the previous owners comments. The previous owner said "It has had a new coil, rotor, cap, condenser, points, plugs and leads and I've set dwell and timing carefully." - and they do all indeed look new. Also, he recently restored the fuel system, as the tank has an internal rust problem, so he sealed it, and replaced the fuel lines, filter and cleaned the carb. I was wondering if your knowledge could shed some light on possible causes of the failure. I did fuel up with regular unleaded at the start of the journey (I was told the Mark IV can accept unleaded), and since the breakdown, I have tested for earthing/wiring issues, and found none. There also appears to be no problem with vacuum in the fuel tank. Tomorrow I intend to check spark and re-check the fuel pump and filter. One other thing - the fuel cap doesn't lock on this car, but I have seen a locking cap on eBay for "1970 Lincoln Continental California only cars except Mark III" - so would this also fit a '73 Mark IV? - Fuel is very expensive here in the UK ($6 per US Gallon) - and so I don't fancy anyone siphoning my car. Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to give me.

Mark

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Greetings Mark -

From your description I also would first suspect a fuel problem as you do. You could begin with a fuel pressure / flow test as per the Shop Manual or inspect the fuel filer and the pick up sock in the tank. The aged fuel pump can also be a candidate for failure on these vehicles. Another result of debris in the fuel tank and lines is that some "fine" rust has entered and contaminated the carburetor. Checking the above should find or eliminate a fuel issue.

Sincerely,

Bill

November 15, 2017

1974 Mark - No Power At Fuse Box

Hello Bill -

Yours is a wonderful site. I have learned so much just from reading here. Otherwise, I might have 100 more questions. One thing I have learned here is how important an accurate schematic is. I have seen a couple and so many wire colors and paths were wrong that you don't know how much may be correct. So I wanted to know how much is the wiring schematic for a 1974 Mark IV.

But I was hoping you could get me out of a rut by telling me why the clips on my fuse box powered by the large black wire with green dots don't have voltage. They are not switched (I don't think) because there is no heavy black wire in the ignition switch. I pulled off all the tape in the factory harness back to the battery looking for a junction for it but it was not there either, only the heavy black wire with orange stripe which sprouted 4 yellow wires that fed two relays on the firewall and went into the connectors to the interior. The big black wire seemed to go to the blower motor resistor coil rack on the ATC system. Which makes no sense to me. I'm about to jump my fuse box to a heavy switched wire out of aggravation, but wanted to hear from you first.

I would appreciate your help,

Thank you ,

John

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Hi John -

Wiring problems sure can be frustrating at times. No one can hazard a decent guess as to why you have no power at any connection at the fuse box without some meaningful diagnosis. The first test that I always make when following an electrical power path is to verify that my test light is working properly at the vehicles battery. Testing equipment can fail. Any testing such as you are describing should also be performed ( as you agree ) with the correct wiring diagram at your side. Circuit testing with the use of this diagram would also save you needing to unwrap the factory wiring harness.

A specific Wiring Diagram is needed so that you can diagnose the issues in proper sequence. We are able to supply you with most repair parts needed.

Sincerely,

Bill

November 6, 2017

1964 Continental Wheel Balancing Questions

Hello Bill -

I have a 1964 Lincoln Continental convertible with standard 15-inch wheels. I am getting a vibration at about 30 miles an hour that disappears at higher speeds. I am thinking that this is a wheel balancing issue, as all the front end parts are in good condition. Can I get a dynamic wheel balance using weights only on the inside of the rim? If not, how can I get a good wheel balance where the weights don't show on the outside?

Thanks,

Elaine

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Greetings Elaine -

Many shops are able to balance the wheels with the weights on the inside of the wheel. The key is to visit a good known shop with up to date modern well kept equipment and discuss this with the manager. You can also ask them to record the out of balance information that your wheels had before their weights were added. A little bit of shopping should produce the results that you are after.

Sincerely,

Bill

October 30, 2017

1979 Town Car Wiper Issues

Hi there!

Love the blog, just got my first Lincoln and I'm going through some minor issues. One is the wipers. They stop wherever they happen to be when you turn them off. They don't return to the start position. The switch feels pretty loose, but maybe that's just the way it is, I'm not sure. Do you think it's a switch, module, or motor issue? I should add that the intermittent feature doesn't seem to work either. The regular speeds work, but I can't seem to make the intermittent feature work. Thanks!

Patrick

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Greetings Patrick -

Congrats on your recent Lincoln purchase . They are great vehicles. Wipers that will not park when turned off is NOT a rare issue with electric wipers for this era of FoMoCo products and we have many times found the problem to be the dash switch, the internal motor switches, or a bad ground etc. To be accurate, the faults must be diagnosed as per the correct shop manual to avoid guessing and possibly replacing good parts. The manual also explains the intermittent wiper operation and chances are that correcting the " no park" issue will correct the intermittent wiper operation as well. We can supply the necessary manuals if you would need them.

Sincerely,

Bill

October 27, 2017

1965 Power Steering Issues

Bill,

I have a 65 Lincoln and replaced the power steering pump because when I bought it the old one was leaking. Even with the good pump, the power steering turns to the right by itself, even with the wheels on the ground. No leaks anywhere, Ford type F ATF in the system and I bleed the system as documented using the windshield wipers. Any ideas why this would happen? I am assuming it may be a seal leak in the power steering gear?

Thanks in advance,

Greg

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Greetings Greg -

Whether or not your steering system rotated the wheels without you turning the steering wheel before or only after the pump replacement the issue certainly sounds like a problem in the steering gear. The pump supplies hydraulic pressure to the gear for both left and right hand turns. Without you directing the gear for a turn with the steering wheel, no turning action should occur. Something must be amiss or plugged inside the steering box as you suspect. The system should be further diagnosed by a competent local steering technician in order to pinpoint the problem. It would be helpful for you to know the history of any previous repairs to these components by the former owner. We do have repair kits and a rebuild service available for these boxes.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 25, 2017

1966 Continental Sedan Brake Light Issues

Bill -

I'm having brake light problem with my Lincoln. Turn signals running lights and emergency flashers work but no brake lights. I have power coming and going from the brake switch to turn signal switch but no power to anything in the trunk. In the schematic it shows a "stop lamp relay" but I cannot seem to locate it or find anything online. Also shop manual says there is a stop light breaker "r.h. Cowl side panel" page 15-8 I also can't find location of that. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Rob

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Hi Rob -

The brake light relay on a 66 is located under the hood on the left side ( drivers side ) inner fender mounted on a rubber pad, near the cover with the other relays. The breaker panel should be located under the dash forward of the glove box. The wire colors at the relay should be:

Red with white tracer

Green with white tracer

Green

You will of course need to trace the power path from the brake switch to the relay and turn signal switch and to the rear lights. Keep in mind that the vehicles with the tilt steering wheel option use a very different turn signal switch than those with a fixed wheel.

Sincerely,

Bill

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