September 15, 2014

1965 Continental Possible Carb Issues?

Hi Bill,

I was hoping you could help me. My Lincoln (430) was having carburetor issues, at least so I thought. I bolted up a new 600cfm Edelbrock and am having similar issues. Popping thru exhaust and run on sometimes. Any help or direction will be appreciated. New plugs, wires, points, condensor.

Thank you,

Geri

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Hello Geri -

Your symptom information is a little sparse so other than common and accurate tune up diagnosis and the possibility of timing chain issues etc., I am going to refer you to our January 21, 2013 blog question and reply below:


1965 Continental Is Sluggish

Hi Bill,

I have been working on a customers 65 Continental for a couple of months now. He brought it to me saying it shut off on him one day and when he started it back up it was running rough and had little power. I have have been through this thing in and out, top and bottom. Did all the usual diagnosis stuff and have changed parts as I have found defects. The car was running rough at idle and would break up real bad when trying to accelerate, popping back back through the carburetor and smelling very rich. The first thing I did was rebuild the distributor, it wasn't advancing and the plate was very corroded. That didn't help at all. I pulled the timing cover to check the chain and marks and that was fine so I pulled the intake and discovered the lifters were seizing in the bores. I cleaned the bores, installed a new camshaft, lifters and timing chain set. While I had it that far down I sent the heads to the machine shop and 500 bucks later they were fixed with a few valves and all new springs. All the rockers are free and pushrods not bent. After all that the car idles as smooth as a brand new car, but still have no power and can barely accelerate. New coil, 12 volts to the coil, new cap and rotor, timing set at 10 degrees ( have tried it from 6 to 16 degrees), 5-6psi fuel pressure at the carb, new helper fuel pump near the tank, compression is 130-140 on every cylinder after warm-up. After all this the car still has very little power, breaks up during acceleration and is still slightly popping through the carburetor at WOT. You can see a mist of fuel with a flashlight coming out of the top of the carb while power breaking it at half throttle. I've hit a brick wall with this one, its the first 430 Ive ever worked on, I'm too far in it to stop now. Any ideas or advice? Thanks so much.

Andy

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Greetings Andy -

After reviewing your letter several times and reading what you have done so far with this engine and assuming that all of your work has been done correctly as per the engine's specifications etc. I can offer the following. The factory exhaust systems on these engines use a " double wall" exhaust pipe. These of course are the pipes that bolt up to the exhaust manifolds and continue on to the next flange connection rearward. It is not unheard of for the inner pipe to develop a separation in such a way as to severely seal up the exhaust on one side enough to cause the symptoms that you are describing. When this occurs the outer wall remains intact and no exhaust leak is heard. Because of the exhaust heat factor this final "plug up" can take place in a very short period of time as your customer has described to you. If the vehicle has the original style pipes on it you should remove them for a careful internal inspection.

Two other items to be aware of when tuning or servicing this era of engine are...The damper pulley on the crankshaft can separate from the rubber damper material and give you an incorrect timing reading. These are available rebuilt. The second is that the vacuum advance units on the distributor are well known to seize or rupture and become inoperative. These are available new.

I hope that the above helps you and I would ask you to let us know here at Lincoln Land what you find.

Sincerely,

Bill

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1965 Continental Is Sluggish - Update

Bill I can't thank you enough for the advice, I unbolted the exhaust just before the muffler's and sure enough the passenger side exhaust pipe was clogged shut. I ran 2 new pipes from the manifolds to the mufflers and the car runs perfect!! I've run into double walled exhaust pipe problems before but 99% of those cases were on Honda's. I had no idea these Lincolns were manufactured with it and probably never would have checked it.

Thanks again,

Andy.


Does that sound at all similar to your problems? It will be necessary for someone to perform precise and meaningful diagnosis in order to avoid replacing parts that are not faulty.

Run on is usually caused by too fast of an engine idle but correcting your main concern may also eliminate the run on. Let us know what you find out.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 9, 2014

1995 Town Car Shifter Won't Move

Bill -

When I start the engine and try to put it in gear, but the shifter won't move. I have to turn the key without turning on the car to get it to move. Then have to fire up in neutral. What can I do?

Sincerely,

Luke

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Luke -

This is not an uncommon problem. That system that won't allow you to shift from Park is known as " shift lock". It is operated electrically by the brake light switch under the dash and therefore your brake lights may also be inoperative. It is possible that the switch is out of adjustment, faulty or disconnected etc. and can be an easy fix in most cases. If you are repairing it yourself you will need to check that switch first with a test light and a wiring diagram. If you are not skilled in these repairs you can have it serviced by any local automotive repair shop. I would ask them first if they are familiar with this "shift lock" feature before allowing them to repair it though. As mentioned above, this problem is well known in the trade so you should make sure that the shop is capable in order to save yourself unnecessary costly diagnostic expense.

Sincerely,

Bill

1963 Continental Engine Noise

Hi Bill,

My 1963 Continental just had the engine completely rebuilt; all new bearings, a valve job, new lifters, gaskets, etc. At the same time the carburetor, alternator, power steering pump, water pump, fan clutch, fuel pump, all hoses and belts were replaced (or rebuilt). The engine is working well except for an annoying rhythmic squeak when it is idling and up to temperature. When the engine is cold, there is no discernible noise. And, the squeak either goes away at higher RPMs, or is covered by the sound from the engine and fan.

The noise appears to be coming from the right front of the engine and seems to be internal rather than external. I have used a mechanics stethoscope to try to locate the noise with little success. The only time I seem to be able to hear it is at the intake manifold at the front where the first attaching bolt is located. But even that is questionable. Any thoughts?


Steve

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Hello Steve -

An internal squeak from an engine that has recently been rebuilt as you describe sounds like a vital part is not being lubricated properly. The car should really be sent by flatbed truck to the rebuilders of the engine for them to diagnose before possible damage can occur. If you wish to check a few possibilities yourself you could do the following. Install a " master oil pressure gauge" to the oil pressure switch port on the engine, remove the valve covers and observe the oil pressure as the engine warms to full operating temperature. The oil pressure should be well into the correct specification for a freshly rebuilt engine if all is well. At the same time you can visually inspect the upper engine for correct oiling action and possibly diagnose a problem in this area.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 8, 2014

1969 Mark III AC Questions

Hello Bill,

Just wanted to let you know that a while back I emailed you about the battery draining as a result of some electrical issue. You narrowed it down to the starter relay/solenoid. I replaced it and it solved the problem. Thanks for the help!

This is about the AC system. I had the entire system completely restored. Every component is brand new with the exception of the evaporator which was "restored".

Yesterday it was 90 degrees here so it probably wasn't the best day to charge the system for the first time.

In any event, here is what I've done so far:

Charged the system with 48 ounces of R-12. Shop manual indicated small cans in the day were in 16 oz cans and to use 3 for a complete charge. I double checked pressures today with an outside temp of 66 degrees. Low "suction" side was stabilized at roughly 35 psi. High "discharge" side was at roughly 165 psi and increased only slightly but stayed below 200 psi. Throughout the duration of this test, the pressures pretty much stayed at the stated numbers with only slight deviations (~1-3 psi).

This leads me to believe that the expansion valve and rest of the system (at least the components under the hood) are working properly. The compressor is engaged and is silent. No lines at the evaporator are icing up. The larger pipe on evaporator as well as the line to suction side of compressor is cold. The lower (smaller) pipe on evaporator is cold before the expansion valve and the opposite side of the expansion valve (small line that runs to accumulator) is warm. I'm not sure if either side of the TEV is supposed to be different temps. I have covered the TEV bulb at suction line with plumbers putty to make sure it is insulated.

With all this being said, the air coming out of the vents with the control lever on HIGH and temp control at 65 is only 60 degrees at idle. When I drive it, it gets to roughly 48 (on a cool day, on a hot day it stays at around 60). It's been my experience that the register air should be around 40 degrees and maybe even get a little colder once the engine RPM's pick up. I'm not familiar with the older systems.

Is it possible there are other issues such as mode door actuators that are not working properly ? When I change temp control to higher temps, heat does come out of the correct ducts but the AC is just not as cold as I think it should be. Please help!

Thanks,

Dan

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Hi Dan -

The a/c system on the 69-71 Marks will perform very well when all of the components are in good working order. Your outlet temperature of 60 degrees on a hot day of 80-85 ambient is too high if the controls are set at 65 degrees on High Range and the control system has responded accordingly with all features operating correctly. There are several items that are easily overlooked when diagnosing however that can contribute to this high outlet temperature. Assuming that all of the components that you have stated were restored or replaced etc. are indeed in good working order I can suggest the following for you to address. Your r12 charge of 3 lbs. is incorrect. The r12 charge for this system is 2 1/4- 2 1/2 lbs. max ( 36-40 oz ). The 8-12 ounces that you are overcharged can and usually will cause problems on hot and humid daytime outside temperatures. On those days of high outside temperatures and high humidity, the following two items must also be operating as designed. They are the vacuum controlled Water Valve and the Recirculation door device located in the air inlet system to the blower. The water valve module will receive vacuum to close the valve in the high cooling mode. Even if this valve is correctly receiving vacuum and appears to be operating o/k on the outside, it may not be sealing properly on the inside. It must be removed, examined and tested to be sure that it is completely sealing internally when vacuum is applied. I have seen some valves that have failed and cause a 6 degree rise to the outlet temp. on hot days. The recirc. door can be checked for operation by hearing the blower become louder when it opens and draws in air from the right cowl kick pad area. The correct operation as designed of the above two items is very important for all automotive air conditioners of this era on hot days. Another component to consider that you may have already checked is the thermostatic fan clutch that controls the engine cooling fan. On hot days it must engage at idle and low speeds in order to cool the engine and at the same time pull additional air through the a/c condenser. The above suggestions are good places for you to start and I hope that they will help you find an easy problem to correct.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 2, 2014

2001 Continental Dies After Starting

Hi Bill,

I have a 2001 Lincoln Continental limited series and I was trying to see what my problem with my car could be because when cranked it dies right back out as well as the lights an radio have been blinking off an on. I had my battery checked an its fully charged no dead cell.

Thank you for your time.

Trish

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Hello Trish -

I would move on to first check all of the battery cables and grounds as well as all of the main cables and wiring to the major power points and fuse boxes etc. as well as the starter circuits. With these complex newer vehicles and electronics a good technician with the proper manuals and test equipment may be necessary.

Sincerely,

Bill

1969 Starting Issues

Hi there!!

I'm a very proud new owner of a 1969 Continental and am doing a restoration, cars in fairly decent shape but does need work. One of the things I'm trying to figure out is why I only hear the starter solenoid on the fender click when I turn the key? It used to work and the car runs good , did have charging issues and after sitting for 10 years I changed some stuff anyways like battery, alternator, voltage regulator and starter solenoid. But still can't get it to start by key consistently, have to jump s terminal to battery terminal on the solenoid, so I'm assuming starter is okay when I do that as it will start then.

Clay

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Hi Clay -

Congratulations on your recent purchase. They are great Lincolns. If the starter does not engage when you turn the key to the start position you should test for power at the S terminal wire at the solenoid on the fender. That wire should be red with a blue stripe. If there is no power there at that terminal with the ignition switch in the start position and jumping that terminal to the positive battery post engages the starter then the cranking circuit must be tested from the Ignition switch to the Neutral Safety switch and to the solenoid. The Neutral Safety Switch could be faulty or out of adjustment , the ignition switch itself could be faulty or there could be a bad connection at any part of that red and blue wire in that circuit. The Shop Manual explains the special N.S. switch adjustments for the 1969 Lincoln in the transmission section. Call our office if you need the Shop Manuals.

Sincerely,

Bill

August 29, 2014

1979 Mark Headlight Door Issues

Hello Bill,

I recently bought a '79 Lincoln Mark V with the headlight doors nonfunctional. The doors will stay closed when the motor is running and will open when the motor is off. With the guidance of your blog I have narrowed it down to the vacuum module (I believe its called) and found it is disconnected but cannot find where it connects back up to. Here are pictures of the module. I was wondering if you know where this might connect to?

Thank you,

Charlie

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Greetings Charlie,

Your email indicates that a previous owner or mechanic has possibly disabled the " Autolamp" system on your Mark. To what extent I can't tell from here. This is usually done in frustration because of a fault in the system. Your first photo is the vacuum control module with three vacuum lines unplugged. They should be near by or the previous owner may have eliminated them. Your second photo is unclear but could be the electrical connection for the Autolamp amplifier. It may have been removed also if it is not near by. In any case you will require the Shop Manual to test the various components. The manual is excellent for these tests but seems to be lacking in vacuum schematics. If the previous owner has turned the system into a manual setup you should consider repairing it to operate correctly as such and then repair the automatic section later. The shop manual is helpful for this repair also but you will need to study it and be familiar with the operation of the various vacuum operated components in order to do the proper diagnosis. Headlamp doors that open shortly after the engine is turned off indicates rapid vacuum loss. Popular fail items are ....Leaking headlamp vacuum motors, vacuum check valve, vacuum reservoir, headlamp switch and any position that the vacuum hoses are routed to. Unfortunately, this diagnosis and repair could be challenging if you or your technician is inexperienced and unfamiliar with these systems and even more difficult if some needed parts have been discarded by the previous owner. We wish you good luck and if you need help with any repair parts, please call our office.

Sincerely,

Bill

August 21, 2014

1966 Continental Turn Signal Issues & Follow Up

Hi Bill,

I have read your online Lincoln tips and info and have found some very useful stuff. Thank you for sharing! Can you please help me with a particular issue I'm having on a friend's 66' Continental?

The turn signals were not working until recently. Turns out someone had installed the incorrect turn signal relay. I found a used one to install and it mostly fixed the problem. Now when I turn on the left signal, the front and rear lights blink normally like they should. However, when I turn on the right signal, the front light blinks normally but BOTH rear lights blink. I have heard that this could be a grounding issue, but I don't know which ground(s) to investigate. Have you ever heard of this and do you have any advice? I recently installed a new reproduction turn signal switch just so you know. It's a tilt wheel type.

Another problem is that the horn does not work. I have not done much investigating yet but I do see that the horn relay is available online to purchase. Do these go bad very often? I'm guessing not but will be curious if you have any ideas.

Again, thanks for your online postings! I hope to hear from you.

Sincerely,

Jerry

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Hello Jerry -

As you know the turn signal switch on a 66 Lincoln with tilt steering wheel is cable operated and is mounted on the lower column area. If you feel however that an electrical ground is faulty then you need to carefully trace each light position with a test light or continuity tester for a possible bad ground. The t/s switch mounting is adjustable therefore my first check though would be for proper adjustment of this switch before any other tests. A small adjustment here can possibly be your problem and could correct the issue. One other area of concern is the four-way flasher switch in the glove box. We have seem some that have melted contacts which have caused strange lighting problems. The melted part should be visible on the exterior when examined carefully. If none of the above helps then you need to trace the circuits with the use of the correct wiring diagram. That year of Lincoln has a complicated turn signal circuit for some unknown reason.

The horn circuit on these cars is the same as most other horn circuits. Since you state that you haven't even looked at it yet, I don't have anything to work with except that it does not operate. Common horn problems that we see at Lincoln Land are .....faulty horn units, missing horn units, unplugged horns, faulty relays, faulty wiring and or horn contacts at the steering wheel sw. and loss of power in the circuit etc. So as you can see this is another circuit that would need to be diagnosed in a logical sequence with the use of the wiring diagram and a test light. A good place to start diagnosing would be at the relay which that Lincoln should have. I would never just go out and purchase a horn relay or any other parts without proving that the part was actually defective. Another fact to know is that the tilt wheel horn system on the 1966 Lincoln has a different circuit than a fixed wheel as the fixed wheel system does not use a horn relay. The electrical circuits on these vehicles can be very complicated and that is why a correct wiring diagram is a must for correct diagnosis and most electrical repairs.

Sincerely,

Bill

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The Follow Up Email:

Bill,

That was good advice to check out the hazard flasher switch in the glovebox. That was the culprit. I disconnected and the problem of both rear lights flashing when the right t/s was activated is gone. I have not checked out the item in detail as to why. Perhaps a contact was fused to another like you said. But now on to the horn problem. Thanks for your help on these items!

Jerry

August 18, 2014

1970 Mark III Power Brake And Vacuum Issues

Hi Bill -

I just purchased a 1970 Mark III and after a week of learning and hassles, I have finally got Urzula back on the road. I have replaced the original intake manifold and carb with a new Edelbrock setup, but now I am having a couple issues. Most importantly my brakes have lost, seemingly, the power assist. I have checked vacuum going to the booster and while it is present I don't know how much vacuum is there. I now have it directly connected to the rear port of the carburetor. Furthermore I was negligent in my documentation and could very well be completely missing a vacuum hose. I have consulted the 1970 shop manual and can't make out the problem. When I step on the brakes, there is a "heavy clicking" for lack of better description, while depressing the brake until it starts braking. Phew. Hope that is enough for an idea, and some much needed help!

Thanks,

Scott

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Hi Scott -

After reading your post a few times it seems as if you have lost power brake assist after you have replaced the intake manifold and carburetor. The power brake booster needs to receive a large volume of vacuum as provided by the original style intake manifold and carburetor. The vacuum required is such that if you disconnect the supply hose to the booster with the engine running at idle the engine will stall or run extremely rough. Since you seem to be unsure of how much vacuum you now have available at the booster, I think that you should pursue that avenue first. If the power booster is not defective but the vacuum to it is found to be low you then may need to consult with the supplier of your new non original manifold and carburetor in order to find out how to supply the needed vacuum to the booster with their manifold. We are familiar with mostly the factory designs in that regard. They may even have some sort of adapter available for this purpose if your present booster vacuum is insufficient. If your shop manual is the factory 1970 FoMoCo shop manual there is a section in Volume one that describes a booster test. If it happens that you need further booster help or replacement please call our office and ask for Al.

Sincerely,

Bill

1979 Fuel Delivery Issues

Hi Bill,

I am the proud owner of a 79' Continental. I am having issues with the fuel delivery system, as in non fuel is being delivered to the carb. The first step I took was to remove the fuel line from the filter and have someone pump the gas to ensure that there was in fact no fuel being delivered. Next I assumed that the fuel pump was bad, so I headed down to auto zone and bought a replacement, I changed it but before I hooked up the fuel lines I had someone pump the line again while I held my finger over the intake. No suction, damn. So either I put the arm that does the pumping in wrong or the mechanism that activates the pump is not working. Please advise oh great ruler of all things Lincoln.


My sincerest regards,

Zachary

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Hi Zachary -

I don't understand what you mean by "had someone pump the line again" or how you are really testing those pumps. In any case and if you think that it is the pumps that are not working, you or a knowledgeable technician could first bench test both pumps for pumping action and at the same time you can check to find out if the new pump has the same pump lever configuration as the original pump. It is rare but not unheard of for the pump eccentric that drives the pump lever to fail. Other very popular fuel delivery problems to consider are plugged filters, rusted/ flaking fuel tank interiors, rusted/perforated fuel lines and rusted and broken fuel sending unit inlet tubes in the tanks. Of course any fuel line perforations can cause the pump to draw air instead of fuel and may not immediately show up as an external fuel leak. Correct diagnosis by someone familiar with the system is important to avoid unnecessary parts replacement and labor.

Sincerely,

Bill