September 22, 2016

1969 Mark III - New Owner Questions

Hi Bill -

Just had my 1969 Mark III imported and am starting to address a few issues.

Sent for a wiring manual from one of your competitors, but whilst using it found the wire colour references to be wrong??

To be sure could you tell me what the three wire colours are to the power window safety relay. Also do you have window switches?

Thanks,

John
Liverpool
England

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Hello John -

Congratulations on your recent Mark III purchase! Great car.

The wire colors at the Power Window Safety Relay in my wiring book shows that they should be Blue/Red/and Yellow. The plug itself is Red. It also has a separate Black ground wire. Some wiring diagrams are incorrect from FoMoCo. The relay is located on the firewall behind the left (drivers side) valve cover. The wire colors as mentioned above could be slightly different but the plug connector is Red.

We usually have stock of new power window switches on hand and we also can offer a rebuild service to any switches that are faulty and re-buildable. The best way to go is to contact us when you find out what you need for availability and prices etc.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 9, 2016

1969 Mark III Headlight Issues

Hey Bill,

Greetings from east Texas. Just when I think everything is working correctly a snake raises it's head. On our Mark III, I installed a NOS headlight switch (w auto/dim). The headlights had been flashing off and on after 5 minutes of driving. The new switch cured my flashing headlights. Now after 5 minutes of driving the dash lights and park lamps/tail lamps go to flashing. This has never happened before. The auto/dim feature also quit working. This had never been a problem before. Auto dimmer had always worked perfectly. What the heck is it NOW? PS, I just bought a bucket list car, a 69 Marquis convertible. Dark Orchid and white. It's a solid scab now but in my hands she'll return to glory. Does Chris have anything on hand for a 69 Marquis?

Patrick

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Greetings Patrick -

Flashing headlamps is usually caused by a fatigued circuit breaker within the headlamp switch and /or upgraded heavy power draw headlamps. The new switch has evidently corrected that issue but these switches also have another breaker inside for the park , tail lamps and dash lights. The dash lights also have a 4 amp fuse to protect that circuit separately. Because the new switch has corrected the first issue it would appear to me that the NEW switch is faulty or a wiring problem to the park lamps and the Automatic Headlamp Dimmer was created somehow during the new switch installation. The switch installation and wiring should be examined and if nothing is visible the old switch could be plugged in to see if the problem reverses back to the original headlamp problem and the new park lamp problem disappears. If the installer was inexperienced, the dash light dimmer rheostat area at the switch possibly could have been damaged etc. I am assuming that the wiring at the tail lamps, park lamps and license plate lamp. have NOT recently been disturbed and are now shorted out. Please let us know what you find out with this interesting event.

That 1969 Mercury sounds beautiful - but it's going to be a hard one to find parts for, feel free to check with us as you needs parts - we may be able to point in the right direction.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Thank you Bill,

I have the original FOMOCO bulbs in the headlights. Nothing disturbed or altered in my Mark III. NO whack job on any of the wiring or plugs, all factory original. I installed the switch with the battery disconnected. The auto dim no longer worked after I installed the switch. I had no issues with the dash/tail/park lamps until a year later now. I have driven the Mark at night and they were not flashing until last night. I thought for the last year I could deal with the issue of a non functioning auto dim even though I'm a perfectionist. Can I examine this circuit breaker within the switch ? I am extremely mechanical.

My best to ya'll in Florida! It's still 100 degrees and muggy here in East Texas.

Patrick

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Patrick -

For starters - we would suggest swapping back to your old Switch and seeing if your issues remain the same.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill -

Do you guys have a used switch for the Mark III? I plugged my old switch in and the dash lights work but the headlights flash again, the auto dim works! I called my engineer
buddy in Kilgore and he told me he thought if I added relays it would take the load off the switch. I have no idea what that is all about but had to run that by you guys. My GAWD I want to pull my hair out. I love my Mark III but sometimes.

Pat

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Hi Pat -

I'm glad that you decided to follow the advice on our Blog to swap in your old headlamp switch as a test. You have now proved that both of your switches are evidently faulty but in different ways as I suspected. Your engineer friend is correct in that adding relays will transfer the headlamp load away from the switch and its circuit breaker to a relay with a separate fused battery source. The headlamp switch circuit breaker would then only need to operate the lower amperage draw relays instead of the higher draw headlamps. These relays are added usually to vehicles that have had higher amperage draw headlamps installed in place of the original seamed beams. In your case however the success of adding relays depends on how much your breaker has deteriorated inside your switch. This of course we do not know. Also for your information I have seen a poor connection at a headlamp switch pin become so hot that the heat was transferred to the breaker inside and was enough to open the circuit. This is always easily discovered because of the visible melted plastic at the switch electrical plug. Show all of the above information to your friend to see if he agrees.

Headlamp relay harnesses with relays and the necessary fuses or breakers are available in kit form from many aftermarket headlamp suppliers or are improvised on site as necessary by local competent electrical shops or the vehicles owners.

Headlight Switches with the Autodim feature have to be sent into us for Rebuild - please contact us to make those arrangements.

Sincerely,

Bill

1978 Mark V Door Lock Issue & Follow Up

Hi Bill,

We have talked a couple of times and I am happy for the help and parts you send me. I do still have a problem with my door locks. I have looked in the manual under 44-16 about the lock actuators and as I understand it the actuators can move both ways is that correct? In that case the actuator should receive reverse polarity power depending whether I'm locking or unlocking the car. I only get power to the actuator when I unlock the doors so where do you think my problem is? Switch? Is there a relay?

Sincerely,

Tim

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Hi Tim -

If I understand correctly you have no locking operation at all from either switch. I would begin by testing for output power from either switch in the lock and the unlock position. The ground for both lock and unlock for both doors appears to be at two contacts in the drivers door switch. One of these ground points inside that switch could possibly be faulty in my opinion if there is no locking at either door from either switch. This type of issue is where your wiring diagram is a real asset in order to understand how the power is sent to the lock motors and how the ground circuit from the motor operates. If you understand the wiring diagram, the drivers switch could be bypassed in order to verify an internal fault or sent to us for testing. Do some tests and let us know what you find and we will proceed further depending on what you find.

Sincerely,

Bill
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Hi Bill -

That did the job. I found out that one of the contacts/switches was corroded and that was an easy fix. All the switches is now cleaned.

While I have you I got a question more. I haven't had my car on for the last couple of weeks and was working on it today for 5 hours. The sun was up and it was around 85 F outside. I noticed that the car was dripping fluid. It was right under the transmission and it seems to be water. Its clear and doesn't have any color to it. I was doing that all day and it was a lot.

I followed the source and found out it came from what felt like an end of a hose just underneath the windshield wipers behind the engine but the hose was coming from the cabin is my guess. Is this normal? I know an AC drips but that is when it's on or after it has been running.

Kind regards,

Tim

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Tim -

I cannot tell from here what that hose looks like. Please send us clear pictures and we may be able to identify it for you. If it is near your wipers as you post, perhaps it is a windshield washer hose that has cracked and slipped off a connector and the heat of the day has expanded the liquid in the washer system hoses and caused it t leak out.

Sincerely,

Bill

August 8, 2016

1969 Mark III AC Questions & Follow Up

Hi Bill,

I wanted to wait a while before getting back to you to make sure the HVAC system was working properly. Sorry for the length of this email.

I took your advice and had the high-range relay re-built at Lincoln Land and it restored proper function of the blower motor and it now works on each of the four settings! I'm very happy! I do have a couple of concerns related to the operation of the system though at this point.

The AC does work, but I'm not sure it's as cold as it should be. When I first charged the system, I was getting cold air out of the registers at approximately 38 degrees F. Now, I'm luck to get air between 42 and 45, and only while driving steady for a long stretch. When I slow down or come to a red light, the air temperature at the registers jumps to about 60 degrees. I should mention that I have used R-12 and used the proper amount of refrigerant. If memory serves, 36 ounces?

Now, I understand the basic concept of the AC system and how it works so I know that on LOW, it draws outside air and that the air in the engine compartment is very hot and I'm sure that has a great effect on the output temperature. But on HIGH, isn't the air intake closed to outside air and recirculates interior air? I would imagine that on this setting, the air coming out of the vents should be "ice" cold as the evaporator is further cooling already "cool" air. Or is it simply that the compressor is that inefficient that it only works very well at higher engine speeds? I know I can't compare it to a new vehicle's system, but I would at least expect output temperatures cooler than 60 degrees at an idle.

I can only speculate that the main function of the ATC box is to maintain a comfortable air temperature inside the cabin and that maybe the box adjusts the temperature blend door and what I'm getting is a mix of hot (heater core) and cool air. I know there is an adjustment on the bottom of the box but does this make the blend door favor more cold or hot air (respectively), or does it simply keep the blower motor at a higher speed for a longer period of time to essentially provide cool air longer before it reduces speed?

Lastly, with the system set to DEFOG, I am getting air out of the floor, right defroster nozzle and only a SLIGHT amount of air from the left nozzle. However on DEICE, I get equal air from both dash nozzles. Is this proper function and if not, what would cause this?

Thanks for your continued help. Your advice and knowledge is second to none!

Sincerely,

Dan

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Hi Dan

From the many questions it sounds like you have some shop manual reading along with much diagnosing to do. The refrigeration section and the control section of the Climate control each have many areas that must be in good working order to cool a vehicle properly.

If the refrigeration section has in fact deteriorated since you charged it with the r12 it can be due to several factors. Along with increased ambient temperatures some of them are:

* The r12 could be leaking and slowly lowering the cooling capacity.

* The cooling fan clutch may be defective and not engaging properly to pull plenty of air through the condenser at low speeds. Possible incorrect fan blade.

* The expansion valve could be faulty.


On the control portion the issues could be:

* The water valve may not be closing when required due to no vacuum at the valve when needed or it could be operating properly on the outside but not sealing on the inside ( must be removed for visual inspection on the inside and bench tested to be sure ).

* Rear vent at rear window package tray or left cowl floor vent may not be closing.

* Control head could be defective.

Any missing ductwork or blower air leakage at any ducting outside under the hood at the firewall or inside under the dash will result in less air being delivered to the inside passenger area. The left a/c outlet is well known to disconnect on many Marks of this era. On High the air supply will be on Recirc. for most of the maximum cooling if the ATC box and the control head are functioning. Do not adjust the control at the ATC box as it is only for minor adjustments for customer preference. Adjustments here will not cure the real issue or increase the maximum cooling performance unless it was already turned far away from its center position. For your deice/defog problem you need to inspect that vacuum motor under the dash for vacuum at the two ports that are on this motor. For deice no vacuum should be present. The vacuum motors can also be tested with a hand held vacuum pump. The shop manual has a very helpful chart that shows the vacuum as directed from the ATC box to the vacuum motors for the various functions. For all we know vacuum lines under the dash could be crossed along with some unknown repairs by previous owners or mechanics without using the proper Shop Manual. We have seen many cars in for repair with misarranged a/c and heater parts. The above advice is based on a portion of the past problems that we have found here at Lincoln Land. When you have done some inspection on some of the above items let us know what is found. We can provide further advice depending on what is uncovered if necessary. We wish you the best of luck with the HVAC diagnosis and a speedy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Bill,

Thanks for all the helpful diagnosing tips. It's been so hot here lately, I can't really do too much diagnosing on the freon side of things. Ambient temps have been well above 85 here, but the system appears to be fully charged.

On a hunch I went ahead and bypassed the water valve to cut off any and all circulation of coolant through the heater core. While driving the vehicle after doing this, the air outlet temperature dropped significantly which tells me that I am having a problem with the water valve.

When I bench tested the valve, it seems to be sealing completely with vacuum applied but I am not sure I'm able to apply enough pressure through the tubes to accurately test this. Stupid question, but at what pressure is coolant flowing through the system with the engine running and how does excessive pressure not build up with the water valve completely closed? I would imagine some coolant should be allowed to bleed by to avoid build-up of pressure.

I've read in the ACC System handbook that with the control lever in the OFF position that NO vacuum should be applied to the water valve. However, in my shop manual, it says that vacuum SHOULD be applied with the system switched OFF. I am currently getting no vacuum to the water valve with the system switched off. I only get a vacuum reading with the system in HIGH and LOW (temp lever at 65). My question is where does this vacuum come from with the lever in OFF as there is only one vacuum line to the water valve and that is from the ACC box. Am I to assume that my box is defective if it is not supplying vacuum to the water valve with the system OFF?

Lastly, should all of the vacuum readings leaving the ATC box be lower than the source coming in? From what I can see, these vacuum motors need 10" to operate but on my AC/Heat door motor, I'm getting readings as low as 7" HG. When I operate this door motor with a vacuum pump, it is holding vacuum so I know the motor is ok. My source vacuum is between 15" and 17" going into the box.

There is also this port sticking out of the plenum just next to or below the AC/Heat door motor which air comes out of all the time. It is roughly 7/8"-1" in diameter and no matter what setting the control head in on, air is always coming out of this port. I can't find on any diagram what this may be.

Thanks Bill, I hope to get this system working properly soon enough. I'm very close, I can feel it!

Dan

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Hi Daniel -
To answer your recent questions. I have no idea what the coolant pressure is at the water valve and really have no reason to find out. When I think of that it seems to be similar to a water tap in a house. When it is turned off the pressure and flow only increases at other areas that the water line is routed to and no harm is done. There is NO provision to allow some flow to continue through the water valve in order to reduce built up pressure as you state. Some coolant may bleed or leak through on some worn or even new valves. Defective valves that require replacing have large leaks or do not close at all. In any case coolant pressure at the water valve is not adjustable, will vary with engine speed and is a none issue in my opinion. The water valve either operates "as designed" or if not it is deemed faulty and replaced. The radiator cap will of course relieve excess system pressure if necessary. You state that the outlet temperature dropped significantly when you bypassed the water valve. What exactly was the before and after temperatures at the center duct. The possibility also exists that the blend door inside the plenum may have lost its sealing material and is allowing some air to flow inside the heater core area when it shouldn't if the ATC is in the full cooling mode. The sealing and insulating materials have long decomposed on many of our collector vehicles after all of these years. The inside duct area and damper doors are very difficult areas to inspect and renew if the seals have in fact disintegrated and are causing decreased cooling performance. If some of the above is actually happening ( water valve not sealing completely and/or plenum seals decomposing ) then bypassing the heater core as you have experimented with will improve the cabin cooling somewhat I would imagine. Of course the original system does not include any design to automatically bypass the heater core in any mode. Some improvising and special underhood plumbing would be required.
You also have not stated any refrigeration pressures within the system. These are important pressures to be aware of in a properly charged and correctly operating air conditioner. Did you record your pressures in a warm ambient for reference when you recharged the system? One other item to consider is the deicing switch at the evaporator. It must cycle the compressor as designed to avoid ice build up in the evaporator and remain open only long enough to deice before re-engaging the compressor.
The FoMoCo shop manual is incorrect regarding vacuum to the water valve in the OFF position of the control. There is no vacuum to the water valve in the Off position and the valve will be fully open.
I would expect that the vacuum exiting the ATC box to the various vacuum motors should be the same or very close to the vacuum reading of the supply line entering at the box inlet port. There could possibly be a component leak or a vacuum hose leak within the box. I have repaired loose and defective hoses etc. within the boxes but have never taken a box apart to only repair a drop in vacuum reading. Of course and as a rule no vacuum leaks are allowed.
From your description the air leak under the dash sounds like part of the aspirator for the "in car sensor" in the dash above and to the left of the glove box. Its operation should be shown and explained in one of your manuals. The air escaping under the dash is necessary and part of the venturi that draws air past the dash sensor via a vinyl hose.
Sincerely,

Bill

July 27, 2016

1966 Continental Brake Light Issues

Hi Bill,

Have a problem with power leaving the brake light switch but not getting to the the brake light relay. If I power the output of the relay, I have brake lights. The car has a tilt wheel and the shop manual doesn't show the schematics. My question is the turn signal switch at the bottom of the steering column the only thing between the brake light switch and the brake light relay?

Thank you,

Joe

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Greetings Joe -

To answer your question it appears that on a 66 Lincoln the power from the brake light switch goes directly to the brake light relay. The complete circuit is also complicated on a 66 so I believe that a wiring diagram would be very helpful for you. We will ask George at our office to scare up a copy of the brake and turn signal diagram and send it to your email address.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 26, 2016

1966 Continental Vacuum Question

Bill -

I just replaced the vacuum line to the wiper motor and have been unable to find in any manual what function it performs. I can see it comes from the control and goes through a adjustable (?) fitting and then to the motor. Thank you.

Wayne

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Hello Wayne -

When the windshield washer is activated, vacuum is momentarily sent to the wiper motor to automatically activate the wipers for approximately eight swipes. When the vacuum in the line bleeds off (at the adjustable fitting that you mention) the wipers should shut off and park. That fitting is adjustable for the count of swipes. Check it out for the above operation. This operation is also explained briefly in the owners manual.

Sincerely,

Bill

1969 Mark III Vacuum Questions

Hi Bill,

Thanks to you and your team at Lincoln Land we have been enjoying our 1971 Mark III. One issue though is a hesitation at about 1/4 throttle. When accelerating normally the engine looses power at about 1/4 throttle - no rough running or missing or coughing - just no power. When you give it more throttle it wakes up and supplies great power. This condition is consistent. I have not been able to find a vacuum diagram that shows where the vacuum advance connects but I have it connected directly to the carb base port - drivers side of the carb. This is where my carb rebuilder said it should connect. I've seen other Mark III's that have the vac advance connected to the fitting at the thermostat housing. (I don't know how this fitting should be connected to vacuum as currently nothing is connected to it. ) I may be incorrect but Im thinking the vac advance function is the causing the hesitation. The vac advance appears to function properly but I'm not sure that its connect to vacuum properly. Any ideas. I have all the manuals and vacuum diagrams but cannot find the vacuum circuit for the advance at the distributor. Thanks!

John

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Hello John -

Not knowing the tune up history of your Mark regarding ignition and carburetor I need to say that the points, condenser, distr. and rotor must be in good shape as well as all of their respective adjustments etc.

The 1969 manual has a better diagram of the vacuum valve hose routing and I will have George send you a copy of that page. Not only should it be connected but it must be functioning as well. It can be tested with a hand held vacuum pump or other vacuum source. Newer style vacuum advance replacements are easily adjusted externally with an Allen key through the vacuum port as per the chart that is supplied with the replacement. This adjustment is very important! The initial ignition timing adjustment is also important to avoid a hesitation on acceleration. Problems arise with correct timing adjustment on these engines if the damper rotates on its rubber and shifts the timing mark. At this point the correct timing cannot be attained with a timing light. A new or rebuilt damper will be necessary or the timing will need to be set by ear and a road test. The road test is to advance the timing in steps slowly until good power is noticed to the point of some pinging on acceleration and then retarding the timing until the pinging is only very slight on heavy acceleration.

If all of the above is in good order, the fuel quality and a possible internal carburetor problem may need to be considered. Did this issue surface after a tune up or the carburetor rebuild or?

Sincerely,

Bill

July 25, 2016

1965 Continental Charging Issues

Hi Bill,

I have a 65 Continental that I have had for a while and it has been having charging issues since I got it. I've replaced the alternator and tensed the belt to ensure if it was tight so that it won't slip. Still, no charging. I made sure the connections were tight and everything looks fine. I have the shop manual for the car but I can't seem to trouble shoot the problem. I really love this car but I hate to have charging issues on such a beautiful car. I would appreciate if you can help me resolve this problem. Thanks Bill!

Josh

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Hello Josh -

Not knowing the history of any electrical repairs on your Lincoln by a previous owner I can only give you some facts along with some items to check. The 64 and 65 Lincolns are well known to develop poor connections at the amp gauge in the dash. This can sometimes result in a burnt connection with no charging and even severe electrical damage. Some owners have then repaired the gauge to operate correctly and some have merely spliced the two wires together to allow the charging system to operate without the amp gauge showing a charge. If a bad connection did develop sometime ago at your amp gauge the wires COULD be spliced and the battery is charging or disconnected completely resulting in no charging to the battery. IF it was spliced the charging rate should be tested at the battery only as the dash gauge will not indicate a charge or a discharge. If the gauge shows no movement you will need to inspect the amp gauge connection behind the dash for a bad connection or a previous repair. Another possibility is that the alternator Regulator could be faulty. These vehicles use a separate regulator that can fail. All wiring related to the charging system should also be inspected for previous inept tampering etc. If you have the correct Factory Shop Manual, all of the above will be shown and explained with test procedures. Many automotive supply shops such as Auto Zone and Advance will offer to test your charging system at no charge.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 22, 2016

1989 Town Car Autolamp Issues

Bill -

The auto dimming will not let me use upper beam. When I use the stalk to turn on high beams, they drop to low beams as soon as I release. I checked the owners manual, and with the dimmer control set at mid point, I pulled the stalk up halfway and the upper beam indicator light on the dash and also hi beams. This was done in a dark area with the photo cell covered. Any suggestions? This car is not my daily driver. I take it to cruise gatherings and want every thing to work. Thank you.

George

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Hi George -

The Autolamp option is a nice feature to have operating on your Lincoln. We do not see many customers that are in for service of the Automatic Headlamp Dimmer portion. When we do service this feature we have the luxury of a parts inventory for testing purposes that we have removed from vehicles that are being recycled. We also refer to the Factory Service manual as it has a detailed troubleshooting chart to aid in pinpointing most component problems. The owners manual that you refer to in your email would be limited in this area. Although the sensor/amplifier, relay and the dimmer switch are common fail items, proper diagnosis is necessary to avoid buying and replacing good parts.

If you wish to diagnose the system as per the proper manual, George R. Miller at our office should be able to arrange a copy of that section of the 1989 Lincoln Town Car manual or a complete set of Factory Service Manuals for future issues on your Lincoln be sent be sent to your address. When you have diagnosed the problem and need any parts, we should be able to supply them to you.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 15, 2016

1969 Mark III Starting Issues

Hello Bill,

Having just purchased (Two Days Ago) a 1969 Mark III (first Model Version), and my first ever Lincoln!, I came across your website while doing some searches for parts & issues. This website seems like a great resource for information and Parts. Unfortunately, I am in not anywhere near your shop...otherwise I would just bring it in (I am in Santa Fe, New Mexico...if you know of any Mark III Mechanics)...but back to my query...the car has 46,000 miles on it, runs great. The odd thing is 1. to start the car I have to lift the Gear Selector above Park in order to engage the starter (won't do anything if I try to start without doing this)...the person I bought the car from said this is what he was told to do as well. 2. When I engage the starter by using the aforementioned method the starter will only crank one short burst...then stop. (it will not keep cranking). When the engine is cold it starts right up...using this method. When I have been driving and then stop and try to re-s tart, 90 % of the time I have to engage the starter 4-5 times before the car starts, each time in one short burst (and lifting the gear selector above park). Is this normal? Does not seem like it)....if not what parts might I need to repair this issue. Thanks Much. Your website is a great resource, I plan to keep using for upgrades on my new Lincoln.

Regards,

Jordan

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Hello Jordan -

Nice ride, We know them well! The adjustment for your neutral safety switch is shown and explained starting on page 07-01-09 of the five volume factory shop manual set. These switches were only used for two years I believe on Lincolns and the adjustment while easy to us can be a complicated procedure to the uninitiated. The problem is that if the gear shift lever tang and /or the PRNDL detents or any other pivots are severely worn or loose in the steering column the adjustments to the N/S switch that you made will be erased when the shifter is again pushed far up into the loose Park portion area again. This switch was explained to us when these vehicles were introduced as a safety device to ensure that the engine cannot ever be started in drive or reverse even if the switch was maladjusted.

Your second problem could be a whole laundry list of one or more electrical issues such as starter motor, wiring including grounds, tune up specs such as timing , or battery etc. When you get the neutral safety switch repaired and if the slow cranking problem still exists ( which I think it will ) you will need to inspect the starter circuit components and repair as necessary. The starting/cranking circuit is also shown in the shop manuals. Let us know what you find . If you do need any of the necessary Factory Shop Manuals we have those available here at Lincoln Land.

Sincerely,

Bill

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