October 24, 2014

1971 Mark III Windshield Washer Issues

Bill,

My 71 Mark III hydraulic wipers seem to work fine, but the washers do not. I cannot hear the washer pump engage at all. I suspect that at least one problem is with the switch. Other than an occasional and barely discernible "click", it hardly moves when I push the knob to activate the washers. If the switch should move farther when pressed, I would like to dissemble it to attempt a repair. The shop manual only instructs one to "remove the knobs". I assume it refers to the primary control knob and the inner knob/bezel against the lens, but it does not explain how to remove them. I've identified a slot at the base of the primary knob, but cannot see any set screw to release the knob. I've attached a picture so that you can see the resting position of the switch.

Do you have any experience that may point me in the direction of a likely problem?

Can you advise me how to remove the knobs to get into the switch?

Finally, can you tell me if these cars had an intermittent option, or just very slow and speed up as the knob is rotated clockwise? If I need to find a replacement switch, do I need to make sure I match the wiper system in my particular Mark III? I sense about eight detents when I rotate the switch clockwise.

Bradley

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Hi Bradley -

Since removing the wiper switch is not a real easy task, why not first test for power at the washer pump when the washer switch is activated . That way you will know if the pump or the switch is faulty. The hydraulic wipers are variable speed design.

Bill

October 20, 2014

1966 Continental Possible Fuel Delivery Issues

Hey Bill,

A while back I had a fuel pump issue. The other day I drove her about 12 miles, it was hot/humid here in Miami, but when I went to restart her a couple hours later she died on me. Sounded like she was out of gas. My gas gauge does not work, but I fill up before 100 miles. I put about 5 gallons in from a gas can and she started back up. When I got to the gas station she only took another 10. My book states it should hold 25 gallons...

Any thoughts?

She seems to run fine now and sounds great, just really strange.

Thanks,

Travis

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Travis -

Your question "Any thoughts"? along with the symptoms seems to tell me that some fuel system maintenance is in your future. What have you checked so far? If nothing you will need to give us some sort of meaningful diagnosis information in order to try to pinpoint the cause of your issue. Your car has indicated to you that there probably will be another no start event soon.

From the sound of your email though and the fact that your fuel gauge is inoperative I would first want to remove the sending unit in the tank for inspection. Not only could the electrical parts be faulty on the gauge portion but the pick up tube could be badly corroded so that the tube has broken and is now shortened and what remains can only supply fuel from the top portion of the tank. This of course is only a possibility but someone will need to perform some proper diagnosis as indicated above. When you can supply us with more information or if you repair it keep us posted so that others will benefit.

Sincerely,

Bill

1979 Mark V - Rough Idle, Hard Start....

Hi Bill,

Fantastic site, what a great resource with all your tips and tools!

I have been having a rather difficult problem with my 1979 Mark V with 70K original miles that I am desperate for help on. Long story short, my Lincoln does not seem to hold the adjustments after the carburetor is tuned. It will run like new then after a little while, will revert back to the same problem and we cant figure this out. It seems to do this in a matter or hours and goes back to the rough idle, hard start and will bog when pulling away from a stop sign. It seems this will only happen once the car is hot after stop and go around town driving.

The vacuum system lines have been checked and replaced as there where a leak was found in the engine compartment. I also had the fuel pump and filter changed. No holes in fuel supply lines, but car will behave as if its not getting fuel and/or a vapor lock kind of behavior. I have had the carburetor rebuilt and even bought a re-manufactured carburetor as well, still same issues.

I have the complete set of manuals and bought the extra wiring and vacuum diagrams as well. I supplied them to three different repair shops that have been using them to get this issue resolved to no avail. Plugs and wires have been checked and have no faults. Here is my laundry list of items below that have been repaired/replaced in an effort to solve this issue.

Distributor
Re-torque intake manifold bolts (one was loose on driver side and sucking in air)
Coil
Ignition module
fuel pump (3 times)
fuel filter
Carburetor
EGR valve
Smog pump
Replaced both catalytic converters
New 3 row Radiator (also added electric fans to help with vapor lock symptoms)

Two of the three shops want to push for an electric fuel pump and swear its vapor locking. I know that would just be making the true problem. I have read the Internet till I am blue in the face, I see suggestions for a plugged Evap canister, temp sensor, faulty brake booster, carb float sticking, faulty vacuum switch and faulty timing advance. I am out of options and way over budget on repairs for this beauty.

Any ideas on what would cause a car to tune out great, then loose it?

Signed,

Joseph

AKA Givenchy in Glendale CA

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Hello Joseph -

When you are a car lover, problems such as you are having sure can ruin your day or your summer. Not having your Mark V here for diagnosis I can only make suggestions of course based on what you have checked, repaired or replaced so far and it appears that everything has been replaced or inspected as you state. If the engine runs fine when tuned and then reverts back to bogging and roughness when at full hot engine operating temperature I would immediately suspect carburetor flooding. If the carburetor at that point (hot engine, rough idle and bogging) can then be adjusted back to a smoother idle with the mixture screws it could be flooding.

If you and your technicians suspect a fuel delivery problem or vapor lock, a fuel pressure and flow test must be performed as per the manual. This test must be performed on your engine after the poor engine performance begins. Therefore you must be prepared beforehand to do the test. We in some cases temporarily install a fuel pressure gauge to the engine and observe the gauge as the engine warms up. This type of diagnosis can uncover suspected problems or eliminate them. In your case the gauge would be observed carefully at the exact time when the roughness appears. These tests must be done Safely with the fuel lines properly plumbed and secured. These 400cid engines are not known to suffer from vapor lock but with the poor fuel that we are compelled to use today, vapor lock could be considered as a possibility.

You also report that the plugs and wires were checked and have no faults. Are they original and were they tested hot? If they are old or an off brand product I would replace them.

One other symptom that you mention is hard hot starting. This hard hot start condition can also be caused by a slightly flooded engine as well as a vapor locked fuel system. This makes me again turn towards a possible carburetor problem that delivers a mixture that slowly becomes too rich for the engine and slightly floods when the engine is hot. A cold engine requires a rich fuel mixture to operate properly when cold. This mixture must lean out as designed as the engine warms to operating temperature. A hot engine will run poorly with an over rich mixture. It is the carburetor's responsibility to deliver the correct mixture. If the choke is operating incorrectly or if the float circuit is faulty or maladjusted etc., the carburetor could eventually deliver an excessively rich mixture to a hot engine.

Electronic ignition systems when heated are also known to fail when hot and cause similar rough symptoms to a hot engine but with all of the new ignition components installed on your engine as stated ( interior distributor electronics and ignition module etc.) it is difficult to point a finger towards those items at this time. It is tough to consider that a new ignition part would have the exact same fault as the replaced one but it is not impossible. At Lincoln Land we have the luxury of being able to substitute "good known parts" temporarily for test purposes in some cases. Someone such as myself may also for tough problem situations drive your car daily until it is fully corrected.

To sum up, you appear to have considered and done everything but obviously something is not right. If an item is suspect it should be "properly" tested and proven faulty if possible ( no guessing ) therefore I would backtrack and carefully examine for a fuel issue first, especially from the carburetor with the engine at hot operating temperature. Keep us posted and let us know what you find.

Sincerely,

Bill

October 17, 2014

1964 Continental Sedan Deck Lid Hinge

Dear Bill,

I've been browsing the very educational archives of Bill's Corner and am hoping that you can steer me towards fixing something very annoying about my '64 sedan. When I close the trunk lid the left hinge feels as though it's binding - there's always a small 'thud' sound and a shudder. This never happens when I open the trunk lid. I checked the hinge up close with a LED torch but couldn't see anything out of place, nor could see any way to make adjustments. To my amateur eyes the tension rod/spring seems to be installed correctly.

Stumped in The Netherlands

Reijer

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Hello Reijer,

We can't leave you " stumped in the Netherlands"

If you are sure that the rods are installed correctly we would do exactly as you have done....observe that hinge area movement. We would however do this with the help of an assistant (to make sure that you are not locked inside). While you are inside with a good flashlight you need relax and carefully observe all of the movement at the point of the "thud" sound as the assistant operates the trunk lid in order to identify the exact location. Many times a dab of grease or oil in the exact spot will correct these issues. Other times careful and close inspection may reveal some sort of wear at any pivot point or incorrect rod installation that you will need to address. As a further precaution the use of safety glasses for your eyes is also a good idea when you are near these torsion rods. Note...On some installations a clip is used to Tie the torsion rods together at a point near the center under the rear glass. Let us know what you find out.

Sincerely,

Bill

1963 Continental Powering Steering Pump Questions

Hi Bill,

I have put my second rebuilt power steering pump on my 1963 continental. The first ones default was blamed on improper bleeding. The current one works, but pushes fluid out of the reservoir were fluid is added. Do you think this a bleeding issue or is there a blockage issue?

Thanks,

Jeff

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Greetings Jeff,

You don't tell us the original reason for replacing the pump or if the second replacement was the ONLY one pushing fluid out of the reservoir. If it was dumping fluid on all three pumps I would suspect a blockage somewhere. If you do suspect blockage, the filter in the reservoir, incorrect filter or incorrect filter installation could cause this. If only one pump was dumping out of the reservoir I would then suspect an interior pump problem with that pump. A pump that has an improperly installed seal could be aerating and foaming the fluid. This is not uncommon and can result in the fluid foaming and overflowing at the reservoir without leaking at the pump itself. When replacing these pumps it is difficult to "improperly bleed" them. The worst scenario is to run them dry in any way. Check out the above suggestions and if you need to, email us with further information. Did you speak with the people that overhauled your pump regarding these issues?

Sincerely,

Bill

October 9, 2014

1971 Mark III Headlight Door Issues

Hi Bill -

Need suggestions, have a customer that just bought a 39k car from a estate sale, problem is headlight doors creep up after car is shut off. Have checked vacuum lines and supply tank - any ideas where to go next? Any help would be nice. Customer did say they will come up while driving.

Thanks,

Don

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Hi Don,

As we have written on previous posts the headlamp covers are operated by vacuum as you already know. A built in safety system causes the covers to fail in the open position and with larger leaks the covers will open sooner. Therefore the only way to find the leaks is to inspect ALL of the areas that vacuum is routed to for the vacuum headlamp control circuit. The best way and the most sensible method is with the use of the correct vacuum diagram a hand vacuum pump and some knowledge of how the system operates. Our experience is that a leak or any combination of several leaks can be found at any components that the vacuum for the covers and controls is sent to. These are.... the two Vacuum Motors at the covers, Reservoir, Vacuum Check Valve, Headlamp Switch, Manual Valve (near reservoir) and any Hose or Junction in the circuit. All of the above necessary components must be installed correctly and all are candidates for failures.

Sincerely,

Bill

October 6, 2014

1966 Lincoln Continental Starter Issues & Follow Up...

Hello Bill,

I have a 1966 Lincoln Continental that I'm restoring. For some reason the starter keeps trying to start the car after I turn the key off. I've put on a new starter and new starter solenoid. Have any idea why it could be doing this?

Thanks for any help,

Doug

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Hello Doug -

If I am understanding you correctly, the engine runs fine until you shut it off. At that time the engine turns off but the starter then engages with the key in the off position and then proceeds to crank the engine as you state " For some reason the Starter keeps trying to start the car after I turn the key off". This would be unusual as the ignition switch would at that time need to send power to the starter solenoid S wire with the key in the off position. If this is true I would first want to test the ignition switch for a possible short inside in the off position. The other much more common scenario occurs with a running engine when with the key turned to the ignition off position the engine continues to run slowly and rough for a short period of time and then finally stops. This can happen when the engine is at normal hot operating temperature but the engine idle speed is much too high This is known as engine "run on" or "dieseling". Adjusting the idle speed will usually correct this issue. Which of the above describes your problem accurately?

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill -

Actually I haven't got the car running yet. It turns over fine but when I turn the key off it will keep trying to turn over.

Doug

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Doug -

Oh oh, slightly different wording. That changes things. The new starter solenoid could have temporarily fused itself inside because of long periods of engine cranking, high starter draw, poor battery cables, low battery charge or poor quality solenoid. If you tap the solenoid when this happens and the cranking stops when and IF the fused contact inside the solenoid do release, you will have found the problem. Next step is to correct the cause by testing and being absolutely sure that the above items (starter , cables, battery and solenoid) are in very good order and up to the task. Long periods of slow cranking with a tight engine and a high draw starter can and usually will be detrimental to the starting circuit.

Sincerely,

Bill

October 1, 2014

1979 Mark V Electrical Issues

Hello Bill,

I have a Collectors Series Mark V that until lately was trouble free, however, one recent night the headlights stopped working. I was about 5 miles from home when the headlights and dash lights went black and the switch was non responsive. I did some research and thought that the headlight switch needed replaced so I purchased one from Lincoln Land and installed it but nothing changed. After that the fuses and circuit breakers were replaced but that didn't make a difference.

The car starts and runs fine but there are no headlights, parking lights, or interior lights. The brake lights do work as do the hazard flashers. When we lost the lights several other things quit working as well: headlight doors, power seats, passenger compartment lighting, seat back releases, power locks (windows work).

Any idea what I should try next?

Thank you in advance.

Rob

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Hello Rob -

Your question should not be " any idea what I should TRY next?" but it should be " how can I DIAGNOSE this electrical problem?" The only way to diagnose a problem such as this is to trace the power path of the lighting circuit etc. with the use of the correct wiring diagram at your side and a 12v test light. Guessing and replacing parts until the fault goes away is costly and time consuming. Your problem could turn out to be as simple as a bad connection at a junction or a failed fuse link near the starter relay under the hood. Fuse links are special lengths of fuse wire that is carefully spliced into the power distribution area usually near the battery. You will need to read the diagram correctly and know the location of the items to be examined and tested. The above method is the best and only way find the culprit. Let us know what you find.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 26, 2014

1966 Lincoln Continental Cooling Issues

Hi Bill,

Let me start by saying; I believe any classic Lincoln enthusiast would agree that you, and your forum are invaluable, and the staff at Lincoln Land provides some of the best customer service I've experienced.

So, here's my situation. I live in Phoenix, and at the beginning of the summer i got out of my car after driving about 15-20 miles, and a few minutes later, i saw coolant running steadily from all over the front of my car. I waited until the car was cooled down (6-7 hours) and checked the expansion reservoir and it was dry. Long story short, after a bit of simple trouble shooting (thermostat, radiator cap, hoses, observation...) i finally discovered a hair line crack about 1.5" long about 3 inches down, along the right side of my transmission cooler, i wasn't stressing because i intended on overhauling the entire thing anyway. I need help with determining whats best for the life and efficiency of this car because i am getting mixed signals. Is it worth it to buy new, particular replacement parts, or refurbish the original parts? if yes, what would you recommend?

Side question. what is your opinion on aftermarket carbs if i am looking for, 1. efficiency 2. fuel economy? have you ever seen a 66 fuel injected? (not sure if that's possible.

Thanks again, you guys are the best -

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Greetings -

We are glad that you enjoy the blog. New parts when they are available from FORD are of course the best way to go with many items but now after 48 years, they are scarce. Many new parts are still available from quality aftermarket suppliers. We try to choose the best of the best for our customers when we can while offering alternatives according to the owners specific wishes.

Your radiator can be serviced properly by a good known radiator shop in your area. Depending on the condition of your radiator they will repair the leak and "rod out the core"or if it has suffered from poor coolant maintenance over the years and is a high mileage car it may require replacement of the core. In any case a good shop will advise you honestly and correctly.

Again, and according to your car's odometer reading your carburetor can be cleaned and successfully serviced internally if you have a carburetor issue. However, many owners have been very pleased with installing the available aftermarket new carburetors when their original carburetors are worn out. A new carburetor is the best choice in many cases. Please contact us for further information on any service or replacement parts.

We cannot offer any information on a fuel injection installation for a 1966 Lincoln. Inquiries such as this at Lincoln Land are rare and we usually refer our customers to the engine specialty shops for the latest product information.

The best fuel efficiency on older luxury collector vehicles such as yours can be realistically attained by maintaining a high state of accurate tune up conditions on your engine along with good driving habits. These engines were not designed with a great measure of "fuel economy" in mind . In our experience, spending a great deal of money in this regard only results in a lighter wallet for the owner.

Please call for any further information that you may require.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 25, 2014

1970 Mark III Ignition Concerns

Bill -

I have a 1970 MK III, with a later model tilt steering wheel; Not sure what year.

Problem is that the ignition switch has gotten progressively harder and harder to turn. The key tumbler has been replaced. I had the steering column removed and thoroughly cleaned and a new igniting switch down on the lower column installed. Was a little better, but over time has gotten worse.

Oddly it gets much worse in very cold weather. Another clue is that it is a little easier to turn the key when I tilt the wheel all the way down.

Any ideas what may be the problem?

Thanks,

Paul

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Hi Paul -

Not knowing what steering column you have I would remove the key tumbler and operate the unit with a screw driver blade and check for binding. If it still binds I would then disconnect the ignition switch on lower part of the column and recheck the operation. If it still binds then you will know that you have a problem behind the tumbler area. The inside of the upper column would then need to be inspected. If the binding stops when either the tumbler or the ign. is disconnected you will have uncovered the problem location at that point. If it is easier to operate with the wheel tilted to another position as you have stated, I would think that the problem would be some sort of interference or damage inside the hub near the tilt mechanism or the locking pin that locks the steering wheel. In any case you would need to isolate the bind as I have suggested above and then examine that suspected area closely and repair as necessary. Sometimes a dab of grease in the right spot can correct the issue.

Sincerely,

Bill

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