July 27, 2016

1966 Continental Brake Light Issues

Hi Bill,

Have a problem with power leaving the brake light switch but not getting to the the brake light relay. If I power the output of the relay, I have brake lights. The car has a tilt wheel and the shop manual doesn't show the schematics. My question is the turn signal switch at the bottom of the steering column the only thing between the brake light switch and the brake light relay?

Thank you,

Joe

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Greetings Joe -

To answer your question it appears that on a 66 Lincoln the power from the brake light switch goes directly to the brake light relay. The complete circuit is also complicated on a 66 so I believe that a wiring diagram would be very helpful for you. We will ask George at our office to scare up a copy of the brake and turn signal diagram and send it to your email address.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 26, 2016

1966 Continental Vacuum Question

Bill -

I just replaced the vacuum line to the wiper motor and have been unable to find in any manual what function it performs. I can see it comes from the control and goes through a adjustable (?) fitting and then to the motor. Thank you.

Wayne

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Hello Wayne -

When the windshield washer is activated, vacuum is momentarily sent to the wiper motor to automatically activate the wipers for approximately eight swipes. When the vacuum in the line bleeds off (at the adjustable fitting that you mention) the wipers should shut off and park. That fitting is adjustable for the count of swipes. Check it out for the above operation. This operation is also explained briefly in the owners manual.

Sincerely,

Bill

1969 Mark III Vacuum Questions

Hi Bill,

Thanks to you and your team at Lincoln Land we have been enjoying our 1971 Mark III. One issue though is a hesitation at about 1/4 throttle. When accelerating normally the engine looses power at about 1/4 throttle - no rough running or missing or coughing - just no power. When you give it more throttle it wakes up and supplies great power. This condition is consistent. I have not been able to find a vacuum diagram that shows where the vacuum advance connects but I have it connected directly to the carb base port - drivers side of the carb. This is where my carb rebuilder said it should connect. I've seen other Mark III's that have the vac advance connected to the fitting at the thermostat housing. (I don't know how this fitting should be connected to vacuum as currently nothing is connected to it. ) I may be incorrect but Im thinking the vac advance function is the causing the hesitation. The vac advance appears to function properly but I'm not sure that its connect to vacuum properly. Any ideas. I have all the manuals and vacuum diagrams but cannot find the vacuum circuit for the advance at the distributor. Thanks!

John

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Hello John -

Not knowing the tune up history of your Mark regarding ignition and carburetor I need to say that the points, condenser, distr. and rotor must be in good shape as well as all of their respective adjustments etc.

The 1969 manual has a better diagram of the vacuum valve hose routing and I will have George send you a copy of that page. Not only should it be connected but it must be functioning as well. It can be tested with a hand held vacuum pump or other vacuum source. Newer style vacuum advance replacements are easily adjusted externally with an Allen key through the vacuum port as per the chart that is supplied with the replacement. This adjustment is very important! The initial ignition timing adjustment is also important to avoid a hesitation on acceleration. Problems arise with correct timing adjustment on these engines if the damper rotates on its rubber and shifts the timing mark. At this point the correct timing cannot be attained with a timing light. A new or rebuilt damper will be necessary or the timing will need to be set by ear and a road test. The road test is to advance the timing in steps slowly until good power is noticed to the point of some pinging on acceleration and then retarding the timing until the pinging is only very slight on heavy acceleration.

If all of the above is in good order, the fuel quality and a possible internal carburetor problem may need to be considered. Did this issue surface after a tune up or the carburetor rebuild or?

Sincerely,

Bill

July 25, 2016

1965 Continental Charging Issues

Hi Bill,

I have a 65 Continental that I have had for a while and it has been having charging issues since I got it. I've replaced the alternator and tensed the belt to ensure if it was tight so that it won't slip. Still, no charging. I made sure the connections were tight and everything looks fine. I have the shop manual for the car but I can't seem to trouble shoot the problem. I really love this car but I hate to have charging issues on such a beautiful car. I would appreciate if you can help me resolve this problem. Thanks Bill!

Josh

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Hello Josh -

Not knowing the history of any electrical repairs on your Lincoln by a previous owner I can only give you some facts along with some items to check. The 64 and 65 Lincolns are well known to develop poor connections at the amp gauge in the dash. This can sometimes result in a burnt connection with no charging and even severe electrical damage. Some owners have then repaired the gauge to operate correctly and some have merely spliced the two wires together to allow the charging system to operate without the amp gauge showing a charge. If a bad connection did develop sometime ago at your amp gauge the wires COULD be spliced and the battery is charging or disconnected completely resulting in no charging to the battery. IF it was spliced the charging rate should be tested at the battery only as the dash gauge will not indicate a charge or a discharge. If the gauge shows no movement you will need to inspect the amp gauge connection behind the dash for a bad connection or a previous repair. Another possibility is that the alternator Regulator could be faulty. These vehicles use a separate regulator that can fail. All wiring related to the charging system should also be inspected for previous inept tampering etc. If you have the correct Factory Shop Manual, all of the above will be shown and explained with test procedures. Many automotive supply shops such as Auto Zone and Advance will offer to test your charging system at no charge.

Sincerely,

Bill

1969 Mark III AC Questions

Hi Bill,

I wanted to wait a while before getting back to you to make sure the HVAC system was working properly. Sorry for the length of this email.

I took your advice and had the high-range relay re-built at Lincoln Land and it restored proper function of the blower motor and it now works on each of the four settings! I'm very happy! I do have a couple of concerns related to the operation of the system though at this point.

The AC does work, but I'm not sure it's as cold as it should be. When I first charged the system, I was getting cold air out of the registers at approximately 38 degrees F. Now, I'm luck to get air between 42 and 45, and only while driving steady for a long stretch. When I slow down or come to a red light, the air temperature at the registers jumps to about 60 degrees. I should mention that I have used R-12 and used the proper amount of refrigerant. If memory serves, 36 ounces?

Now, I understand the basic concept of the AC system and how it works so I know that on LOW, it draws outside air and that the air in the engine compartment is very hot and I'm sure that has a great effect on the output temperature. But on HIGH, isn't the air intake closed to outside air and recirculates interior air? I would imagine that on this setting, the air coming out of the vents should be "ice" cold as the evaporator is further cooling already "cool" air. Or is it simply that the compressor is that inefficient that it only works very well at higher engine speeds? I know I can't compare it to a new vehicle's system, but I would at least expect output temperatures cooler than 60 degrees at an idle.

I can only speculate that the main function of the ATC box is to maintain a comfortable air temperature inside the cabin and that maybe the box adjusts the temperature blend door and what I'm getting is a mix of hot (heater core) and cool air. I know there is an adjustment on the bottom of the box but does this make the blend door favor more cold or hot air (respectively), or does it simply keep the blower motor at a higher speed for a longer period of time to essentially provide cool air longer before it reduces speed?

Lastly, with the system set to DEFOG, I am getting air out of the floor, right defroster nozzle and only a SLIGHT amount of air from the left nozzle. However on DEICE, I get equal air from both dash nozzles. Is this proper function and if not, what would cause this?

Thanks for your continued help. Your advice and knowledge is second to none!

Sincerely,

Dan

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Hi Dan

From the many questions it sounds like you have some shop manual reading along with much diagnosing to do. The refrigeration section and the control section of the Climate control each have many areas that must be in good working order to cool a vehicle properly.

If the refrigeration section has in fact deteriorated since you charged it with the r12 it can be due to several factors. Along with increased ambient temperatures some of them are:

* The r12 could be leaking and slowly lowering the cooling capacity.

* The cooling fan clutch may be defective and not engaging properly to pull plenty of air through the condenser at low speeds. Possible incorrect fan blade.

* The expansion valve could be faulty.


On the control portion the issues could be:

* The water valve may not be closing when required due to no vacuum at the valve when needed or it could be operating properly on the outside but not sealing on the inside ( must be removed for visual inspection on the inside and bench tested to be sure ).

* Rear vent at rear window package tray or left cowl floor vent may not be closing.

* Control head could be defective.

Any missing ductwork or blower air leakage at any ducting outside under the hood at the firewall or inside under the dash will result in less air being delivered to the inside passenger area. The left a/c outlet is well known to disconnect on many Marks of this era. On High the air supply will be on Recirc. for most of the maximum cooling if the ATC box and the control head are functioning. Do not adjust the control at the ATC box as it is only for minor adjustments for customer preference. Adjustments here will not cure the real issue or increase the maximum cooling performance unless it was already turned far away from its center position. For your deice/defog problem you need to inspect that vacuum motor under the dash for vacuum at the two ports that are on this motor. For deice no vacuum should be present. The vacuum motors can also be tested with a hand held vacuum pump. The shop manual has a very helpful chart that shows the vacuum as directed from the ATC box to the vacuum motors for the various functions. For all we know vacuum lines under the dash could be crossed along with some unknown repairs by previous owners or mechanics without using the proper Shop Manual. We have seen many cars in for repair with misarranged a/c and heater parts. The above advice is based on a portion of the past problems that we have found here at Lincoln Land. When you have done some inspection on some of the above items let us know what is found. We can provide further advice depending on what is uncovered if necessary. We wish you the best of luck with the HVAC diagnosis and a speedy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 22, 2016

1989 Town Car Autolamp Issues

Bill -

The auto dimming will not let me use upper beam. When I use the stalk to turn on high beams, they drop to low beams as soon as I release. I checked the owners manual, and with the dimmer control set at mid point, I pulled the stalk up halfway and the upper beam indicator light on the dash and also hi beams. This was done in a dark area with the photo cell covered. Any suggestions? This car is not my daily driver. I take it to cruise gatherings and want every thing to work. Thank you.

George

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Hi George -

The Autolamp option is a nice feature to have operating on your Lincoln. We do not see many customers that are in for service of the Automatic Headlamp Dimmer portion. When we do service this feature we have the luxury of a parts inventory for testing purposes that we have removed from vehicles that are being recycled. We also refer to the Factory Service manual as it has a detailed troubleshooting chart to aid in pinpointing most component problems. The owners manual that you refer to in your email would be limited in this area. Although the sensor/amplifier, relay and the dimmer switch are common fail items, proper diagnosis is necessary to avoid buying and replacing good parts.

If you wish to diagnose the system as per the proper manual, George R. Miller at our office should be able to arrange a copy of that section of the 1989 Lincoln Town Car manual or a complete set of Factory Service Manuals for future issues on your Lincoln be sent be sent to your address. When you have diagnosed the problem and need any parts, we should be able to supply them to you.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 15, 2016

1969 Mark III Starting Issues

Hello Bill,

Having just purchased (Two Days Ago) a 1969 Mark III (first Model Version), and my first ever Lincoln!, I came across your website while doing some searches for parts & issues. This website seems like a great resource for information and Parts. Unfortunately, I am in not anywhere near your shop...otherwise I would just bring it in (I am in Santa Fe, New Mexico...if you know of any Mark III Mechanics)...but back to my query...the car has 46,000 miles on it, runs great. The odd thing is 1. to start the car I have to lift the Gear Selector above Park in order to engage the starter (won't do anything if I try to start without doing this)...the person I bought the car from said this is what he was told to do as well. 2. When I engage the starter by using the aforementioned method the starter will only crank one short burst...then stop. (it will not keep cranking). When the engine is cold it starts right up...using this method. When I have been driving and then stop and try to re-s tart, 90 % of the time I have to engage the starter 4-5 times before the car starts, each time in one short burst (and lifting the gear selector above park). Is this normal? Does not seem like it)....if not what parts might I need to repair this issue. Thanks Much. Your website is a great resource, I plan to keep using for upgrades on my new Lincoln.

Regards,

Jordan

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Hello Jordan -

Nice ride, We know them well! The adjustment for your neutral safety switch is shown and explained starting on page 07-01-09 of the five volume factory shop manual set. These switches were only used for two years I believe on Lincolns and the adjustment while easy to us can be a complicated procedure to the uninitiated. The problem is that if the gear shift lever tang and /or the PRNDL detents or any other pivots are severely worn or loose in the steering column the adjustments to the N/S switch that you made will be erased when the shifter is again pushed far up into the loose Park portion area again. This switch was explained to us when these vehicles were introduced as a safety device to ensure that the engine cannot ever be started in drive or reverse even if the switch was maladjusted.

Your second problem could be a whole laundry list of one or more electrical issues such as starter motor, wiring including grounds, tune up specs such as timing , or battery etc. When you get the neutral safety switch repaired and if the slow cranking problem still exists ( which I think it will ) you will need to inspect the starter circuit components and repair as necessary. The starting/cranking circuit is also shown in the shop manuals. Let us know what you find . If you do need any of the necessary Factory Shop Manuals we have those available here at Lincoln Land.

Sincerely,

Bill

June 27, 2016

1977 Mark V Overheating Issue

Hi Bill,

Thank you so much for your help last time with the issue I was having on my 1977 Mark V with my lights flashing on and off as I was driving. The rebuilt headlight switch did the trick and arrived fairly quickly. The fuel sending unit I ordered from you is in the tank and working great, and the front license plate holder was really nice quality and looks excellent on my front bumper. You guys at Lincoln Land are awesome, so I am back to ask for your help again.

I have recently been experiencing an overheating problem. I have the 400 engine, and here is a list of what I have done so far to try and fix the problem: I've Replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses. I've Replaced the thermostat (was 180, replaced with 192), it is installed with the spring end in the engine block. I've Removed the radiator and took it to a radiator repair shop and had it rodded out. I've Flushed out the block with the garden hose before reassembling and filling with coolant / water (about 60% coolant mix). New radiator cap. The fan shroud is the original one, and it is intact and unbroken.

I have the 1977 Ford service manuals on CD, and they have been a great help so far. Here is a list of the other things I am considering addressing as possibilities: I've got a flex fan, so no possibility of clutch failure. However, it's a 5 blade and one of the blades has the flex piece broken off, but the metal blade is still intact. Also, it measures 18-1/4" from tip to tip, but when I search online the standard size that comes up is 19-3/4". The opening in the shroud is 20-1/2", so the larger one should fit, but the one I have looks like it is original so I don't know if the 19-3/4" one will hit the shroud as it flexes at higher speeds. I'm considering replacing it with a 7-blade, which size would you use? And do you think this would be worth trying first? It is a regular rotation fan, and it is installed with the flex blades facing the engine, so I'm pretty sure it is not backwards. My Water pump (the shop I took it to for diagnosis before getting the radiator serviced said the radiator was 25% blocked, so I figure they would have noticed if the pump was bad they've done me right every time I've gone there). • I've read online that a bad EGR valve can cause overheating, considering replacing it. I've also read that timing problems can cause overheating, and that a bad EGR valve can contribute to the timing issue if there is one. I had the distributor replaced recently as well after it failed while driving. The last thing I've seen as a possibility is an exhaust restriction. When I got the car, the muffler had been damaged so I had it replaced. Later, the distributor failed so I had that replaced. When they started the car after the repair, it was running roughly. A friend at work had told me he thought the resonator at the end of the exhaust might be plugged, so I suggested they cut it off and install a straight tailpipe. The car ran fine after that. I've also recently had the carburetor rebuilt, so I doubt that could have anything to do with it. The last factor is that I live in Phoenix, and it has been between 110-115 every day for the past 3 weeks. I realize that this contributes to the problem, and I've known for a while that the car seems to run hotter than it should, but there has to be a way to get it to run at a normal temperature. It has never boiled over or had the temp light come on until recently. I'm trying to do as much as possible myself, because shops are expensive and funds are limited. I look forward to your response. Thanks again!

Patrick

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Hi Patrick -

Overheating engines are no fun. It looks like you have covered all of the important common areas of overheating. The fan blade that is missing the flex piece is never a good component to use on your engine. I would replace it with the largest one with the most blades that was correctly available for your engine when these cars were new.

I am assuming that your engine is actually overheating and that you are not just overfilling the system and that the hot engine sending unit is not faulty. All of the tune up specs and ignition timing etc. should of course be correct as per the shop manual. We are not familiar with the cooling system maintenance history on your engine but two other important possibilities do jump out at me in your situation. They are the extreme heat lately in Phoenix and the condition of your radiator. We have had many truly overheating engines at Lincoln Land that did have their radiators serviced along with many other parts replaced etc. that continued to overheat and were only and finally corrected when the radiators were properly re-cored with a new original style core assembly. Rodding out the original radiator core is a good repair but the procedure is only as good as the person that is doing the job. You and I were not there to watch what was actually done to each and every core tube in your radiator. Because of this and the Phoenix climate lately I am leaning towards a continued radiator problem after the core rodding. I am only strongly considering this scenario based on what you have already done to correct the issue and our experiences here at Lincoln Land. I would contact our office to discuss purchasing another fan blade to replace the one that you have with the missing flex piece for starters and then carefully considering a radiator re-core after discussing the problem with a trusted shop. If you have a good shop you can sit down with the owner and show him this reply and my statements regarding our experiences with radiators at Lincoln Land.

Sincerely,

Bill

June 10, 2016

1976 Lincoln Town Coupe ATC Problems And Follow Up

Hi Bill,

1976 Lincoln Town Coupe ATC blower problems. Hope you guys are well. May I tap into your vast knowledge of my Lincoln ATC system again please? Ever since I got the car there has been a intermittent fault with the system in that the blower fails to operate in both Low and Vent positions only, rest OK., very sporadic, usually after start up after a run, not normally after an overnight start up. Since fitting the ATC box from your good selves, the problem seemed to go away, (more than likely a coincidence) with the system performing faultlessly. Unfortunately, whilst driving home from friends on a particularly cold Saturday night a week or so ago, the system, which is normally left on Low all the time, did not start up when the engine warmed as normal. (The outward journey was trouble free with the usual sumptuous warm environment) The system (blower??) would work as normal in High, Defog and Defrost, but not in Low or Vent. Usually, when this occurs, the system "repairs itself" overnight and all is well the next day. Not this time however. It does seem to be the blower switching system, as you can hear the vacuum system and doors operating as normal. I even seemed yesterday to get a very gentle waft on both Low and Vent, which then seemed to stop all together. All the wiring and connections behind the control unit seem to be sound. Would a relay or the blower resistor cause such a problem? Must admit some of the wiring at the resistor connector block does look a little fried!! Have not had a chance to check it out properly due to the inclement weather. Boy what a wimp!! Any ideas you have to solve this problem would be very much appreciated. Thank you.

Kind regards to all,

Jim

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Greetings Jim -

Yes, loss of the LOW operation can certainly be caused by a fault at the blower motor resistor pack or a relay on the firewall. If you have spotted a possible bad connection at the resistor connector as you have stated, that is where you should begin. The resistor should be removed and the coils inspected carefully for breaks etc. and the individual pins at the connector cleaned as well as the female ends removed and tightened one at a time. A badly damaged connector plug or wire contact pin would need to be replaced. If repairing that connection does not correct the problem, the Range Relay on the engine side of the firewall should be properly tested next. The wire colors and internal contacts are shown in the Factory Shop Manual wiring diagram. The other relay in this circuit is the High Blower Relay but I would suspect the Range Relay first in your case. These relays are very popular fail items and we offer a rebuild service for them or replacements if they are too far gone. These first inspections should reveal the issue. If not, email us back and we will go to the next steps. A further good practice after the repair is to perform a blower motor draw test with an ammeter to be sure that the blower motor is not drawing excessive amperage which could cause future wiring problems. Let us know what you find Jim and we will be ready with any necessary parts that you may need.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Bill,

Thank you for the fast response. I will check out the items you mention as soon as I can, and let you know the outcome. You guys are life savers, especially for us overseas with no such thing as "Lincoln-Mercury" dealers.

Take care,

Jim

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Bill -

On 7th March 2016

I have done a little investigation as per your suggestions on the blog.

Firstly blower resistor connector: This has proved impossible to separate from the resistor module, and not wishing to do any damage (without replacement parts in my back pocket), I removed the resistor pack with the connector still in situ. The actual resistor module seems in excellent order. All the coils are present, without any breakages or signs of touching, overheating, scorching or general deterioration. In fact it looks brand new! However, the wire which I mentioned as looking somewhat fried in my first blog enquiry is actually terminal number 6, orange with black stripe. (All the other wires look fine from the outside) The insulation at the connector end is quite badly deteriorated for about 1/4 inch from the connector. I am unable to ascertain whether the actual male and female connectors within the units are damaged or corroded.

However, when I fitted the bits back together, horror upon horrors, the High auto function had also stopped working, but not the two demist functions, no doubt due to me messing around with the orange and black wire. Before I put the car away, I sprayed WD 40 all over the connector block in the hope of loosening the connector from the resistor module for the next attempt. When I reached the car storage facility, I tried the High function, and it worked fine. This will need to be check out of course, but I am reluctant to do too much work without any necessary replacement parts, fearing being without heating. Which leads me onto a question as to whether or not you can supply new connectors ready wired up to splice/ join into the wiring harness and push into the resistor module?

Secondly, the range relay. Not easy for me to check out due to lack of facilities. I am tempted to risk buying one to try it, as I feel that it is the most likely contender. Do you have these in stock?

On 10th March 2016

The High auto feature is still working great, and reduces the blower speed to quite low speeds when the temperatures are balanced. Tried again today to separate the connector from the resistor module, without success. The unit is in a difficult place for this old guy to get a good grip onto the connector, to apply sufficient force to separate the two, but if I could remove the whole assembly from the car, it may well be much easier. However, this would of course need the seven wires to be severed!! Oh dear. This is really frustrating. Oh for the hands and strength of youth. (And other things!)

To clarify: Please let me know the cost of: 1) replacement blower resistor connector with fitted wires, if these are available, or would it be feasible to cut the wires close to the actual connector, remove the assembly, separate the connector and resistor module, fit new female connectors to each wire, and re assemble. What would you do? I am afraid I don't know what bits are available. 2) replacement blower resistor--just in case. 3) replacement range relay.

I can then decide how to proceed, and have the parts with me before getting "stuck in". Hope all that made sense. Thanks again for all the help and advice. Very much appreciated.

Look forward to your reply,

Kind regards to all,

Jim

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Hello Jim -

Sorry to hear that you are having such a hard time with that resistor connector. A bad contact here has obviously heated and fused some elements together. If you are certain that a forced separation will destroy the connector plug and resistor pack we should be able to find and send you an undamaged connector and resistor with a length of the original wires attached and ready to splice. You could try to cut or saw your connector apart at the melted location in order to save some or most of the original wiring and attach them to the new connector and new resistor. You may then only need to splice one or two wires ( the ones that have the burnt connections ). These wires can be removed separately and one at a time as necessary from the connector by tripping a built in locking tab pin at the connector with the connector unplugged. This way you will be able to choose the correct path for the situation at the time of repair and have all necessary wiring at the ready.

As for the relay it would be easier I believe to send it to us for testing in order to verify a fault and then rebuilding as and only if required. I strongly advise to send in the blower high speed relay as well for testing here. We then could send them back to you with the above mentioned replacement wires, replacement resistor and replacement connector plug. I could even advise the color of wires to temporarily jump to lock the system on " low range " blower speeds. That way the car can still be used with the climate control mostly operating operating. Let us know what would be best for you or if you have further questions.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Guys,

Well we've done it! I managed to fit the refurbished parts on Good Friday without any problems. The main help was me seeing, from the resistor connector you sent, that there was a second clip fastener which is hidden from view when fitted in the car, and even with the resistor pack removed from the heater housing, not easy to see, without removing it from the car. When I discovered this, and released both clips, guess what, yes, the connector was easily removed from the resistor pack. Talk about feeling a fool!! Anyway the true extent of the damage was now easy to see, and it was a wonder the system had been able to function at all.

It seems that the male connector for number 6 connection, Orange and Black wire, had rusted through from the inside, (possibly due to the car not seeing much use during the 10 years prior to me buying it), and indeed there was little left protruding through the fibre/plastic casing of the resistor, the resultant resistance at the connection, and subsequent heat generation, causing the plastic connector (housing the female connector), to melt away, together with a substantial amount of sleeving from the wire. Evidence of sparking too. What a mess!!

As the connector was now separated from the resistor pack, I was able to fit the original 5 wires into the "new" connector, as per your suggestion, and leave the 2 heavy duty cables/wires you supplied in situ, with these spliced into the wiring harness. Job done. Of course the relays were a doddle to fit, and I am pleased I now have these refurbished too. Can only help the situation.

All wired up, and hey presto, the unit functions a treat. What a result. Splendid! A nice warm cabin environment, achieved in near silence. It's funny, when you manage to repair such problems, the system, whatever it might be, always seem to work much better than it before. Not hard to believe in this case!

Unfortunately I ran out of time to do a current draw test on the blower, but will do that ASAP. Just wished the weather would warm up a bit.

It only remains for me to thank you guys for all your time and trouble. I am sure you know how much it is appreciated.

Take care, and best wishes to all,

Jim

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Hi Jim -

Congratulations on the repair! We love to hear customer success stories. The blower draw test is good to do in the near future to ensure that the blower will not damage the wiring again if it is in fact over drawing. If it is within specifications, the connection that caused the burnt wiring plug was faulty for some time. Enjoy your Lincoln Jim.

Erik, George and Bill

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Hi Bill,

Managed to do a blower draw test, at last, on Friday. Yippee, within tolerance, at 22 amps on high blower speed. So all is now well. I know you guys would appreciate knowing the results. Seems it was the corroded terminal in the resistor module causing the trouble.

Take care,

Jim

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Hi Jim -

Excellent results on that test Jim. Case now closed, time too enjoy that nice Lincoln.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Bill,

Well the old ATC is playing up again, just as I thought we'd solved it. I've now lost the high blower range. It does seem similar to Dan's problem with his MK III below. Here we go then: when you move the control lever to de frost, the system will switch to full heat and the blower to full speed, but after only a few seconds running at full speed, the blower will switch out altogether, or at the best will run exceptionally slowly. I experienced this, if you remember, when I first examined the wiring at the blower resistor, thinking that me messing around with the wires had caused the problem. However it righted itself at the time and has been fine after the fitment of the refurbished resistor module and relays. Indeed it allowed me to check the blower current draw using the de frost setting without any trouble. So it does seem to have been in the background before I replaced these components. It also manifests itself in HIGH AUTO(when selected, blower will run on "intermediate" speed, then suddenly move to high speed, and again drop back to intermediate, were it will stay for the duration.)& LOW AUTO(when selected will run at very low speed and then after a while will surge to the high lower blower speed, and again after short time drop back to minimum.) I don't know if it's my imagination, but whilst the blower is running at any speed, it does not sound to be consistent, but with a very slight surging or variation in speed?? If I jump into a hot car with the system set at low auto, there is very little cool air admitted to the cabin, and then after about 5 minutes of driving the blower may or may not suddenly move to a high setting, and allow more cool air in. In high auto the same occurs, but with an initial slightly higher blower speed. I am unable to achieve max a/c. Then again, sometimes during the drive, I will get cold air?? The whole scenario is very unpredictable. I despair!! Continuity check of main switch is OK, and the system works, after a fashion, in all selected functions, it seems that the system just cannot decide what blower speed to utilize to fulfill the required function. I do hope all that made sense. As always, any ideas you have will be very much appreciated, and if you need any further info I am only too willing to help.

Kind regards to all, take care

Jim

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Jim -

Your description sounds like a high resistance somewhere in the blower circuit at the resistor multi plug or one of the relays. I would check for heat at all of the above connectors ONLY at the time that the fault is occurring. Of course we stand behind those parts that we have previously rebuilt for you. Before the above tests are done you should consider two other possibilities. The blower motor could be overdrawing amperage only after it has been on for awhile and is overheated. This in turn of course could damage any connections in the circuit. The blower motor draw test may need to be repeated and carefully observed with the blower motor on for a period of time. Power to the high relay from the battery is through a fuse link under the hood (bonnet). A faulty fuse link connection ( not completely failed ) could cause an intermittent relay feed. As I am not back to Lincoln Land until October we may need you speak with Erik for the fuse link location if the important blower draw test proves that the motor is drawing correctly in the lower 23 amp area when hot. The parts that we rebuilt can certainly handle the normal amperage draw. Let us know when your testing is done and you have more information in order to proceed to the next step.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Guys,

Thank you for the usual speedy response, and your patience and advice.

I have been attempting to do the tests you suggest. Unfortunately I am unable to get high blower speed to check the amperage draw, as at present the system will not provide this facility, apart from about 2 seconds duration when defrost is first selected, dropping almost immediately to very slow.

What I failed to mention last time was that in vent the blower works perfectly well, (This being the only position were it does) and, as it should, on the pre-determined speed and at a constant speed. So what I did this morning was to start the car and select Vent, jumped out and checked the current draw with the blower running at this speed. Result was 9-10 amps., and left the switch in vent for the following 1/2 hour drive. When I stopped I left the engine running and jumped out to check the blower draw again, and got the exact same result of 9-10 amps, so it does not look as though the blower is getting hot.

I have found the fusible link George referred to, near the passenger side firewall, with the yellow band identification. Looks a bit scary!! Don't know what to do with that. Is there anyway to check this out?

With the system switched to defrost, which is the position which seems to highlight the problem the most, I checked out the terminals at the resistor module and both relays.
All seemed to be well without any signs of heating. Please be aware that after fitment of the two relays and the resistor module, I did use the defrost setting to get the 22 amp reading for current draw, and at the time the system was running at full blower speed, so I am sure the relays and resistor module are performing correctly. I also say this because this very same problem, re very slow blower speed in defrost and other positions, did occur prior to the fitment of these components, and first became noticeable after my first attempt at checking the terminals on the resistor pack, because I thought it due to me messing with the wires. However this rectified itself, only to resurface on my first attempt at the current draw test after fitment of the new components. Again, rectified itself sufficiently for me to do the successful draw test later, only to re-occur later with fluctuating, "slow then high and then slow speeds" in both low and high auto, "steady speed" in vent, and then "initial high speed immediately dropping to very slow speed" in defrost. Oh boy, what a confusing mess!

What I have found purely by accident, whilst attempting to trace a rattle under the passenger side dash and burning my finger in the process, is that the compressor clutch relay (situated to the right of the ash tray) connection(s) is/are getting very hot. This occurs only when the compressor is switched in, the relay remaining cold when the compressor is switched out. I don't suppose this will be connected to the blower problem will it? After all the problem only seems to be prevalent in the positions when the compressor is switched in. May be coincidental. This will have to be looked into at a later date, as the weather has closed in again, with rain, rain and more rain. I will not use the compressor until this is sorted.

Over to you with the hot potato. (Only joking). As always any suggestion/advice you can give would be most welcome. Thank you.

Best wishes,

Jim

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Hi Jim -

A much better way of testing the blower motor amp draw is with a 10 gauge wire properly connected to the battery positive terminal and then through your ammeter gauge directly to the blower motor connection closest to the motor itself. Do this with the engine and the key in the off position. That way there is no other resistance involved, only the blower motor itself. This should be done for a reasonable period of time with a battery charger keeping the battery fully charged during the test. Any fluctuations in blower speed can also be noted.

The fuse link can be checked for excess heating by hand on the wire wrapping with the system on and the Defrost selected to maintain high blower. At the same time the link can be wiggled slightly to check for a bad internal connection. The compressor relay should not affect blower speeds or heat to such a degree that it literally burns your fingers in my opinion. If you believe that the compressor circuit could be a culprit you could pull that fuse out from the fuse box for a test without that circuit involved. Did you already include checking for excess heating of the multi plug and wire splices that you connected when you installed the new resistor and multi plug?

If nothing at all is found with the draw test or any other testing, we may need to discuss sending the relays back here for inspection.

Sincerely,

Bill

June 7, 2016

1964 Continental "Mysterious Leak"

Hi Bill,

I just purchased this car and have driven it around several times without any problems until yesterday. I started the car and put the top down. I was doing a walk around and noticed something dripping from the front drivers side bumper. A dark fluid that left a stain on the pavement so this is def the first time. Leaked a total of 1 or 2 cups. I have been working on cars for a while and this is not coolant (too dark) or engine oil (too dark, dipstick shows new oil, and does not seem viscous enough). Transmission fluid on the dipstick is a lovely bright color and registers full so not that. I am thinking break fluid or from some other hydraulic system. It actually appears to be leaking from the base of the frame that curves over the drivers side suspension components, like it could be leaking from higher up and running down the frame just to escape near the front bumper. No obvious source when looking under the hood. I would take a pic but there is a monsoon going on right now in Tampa so that will have to wait. I hope that was enough info without being too much. Thanks!

Benjamin

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Greetings Benjamin -

From your description I cannot even speculate with any accuracy as to the source of that leak from here. What I will say though is that if you are seeing actual liquid dripping from the bumper as you describe, anyone with a little automotive knowledge should be able to trace that dripping to the source. Good luck.

Bill

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