June 27, 2016

1977 Mark V Overheating Issue

Hi Bill,

Thank you so much for your help last time with the issue I was having on my 1977 Mark V with my lights flashing on and off as I was driving. The rebuilt headlight switch did the trick and arrived fairly quickly. The fuel sending unit I ordered from you is in the tank and working great, and the front license plate holder was really nice quality and looks excellent on my front bumper. You guys at Lincoln Land are awesome, so I am back to ask for your help again.

I have recently been experiencing an overheating problem. I have the 400 engine, and here is a list of what I have done so far to try and fix the problem: I've Replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses. I've Replaced the thermostat (was 180, replaced with 192), it is installed with the spring end in the engine block. I've Removed the radiator and took it to a radiator repair shop and had it rodded out. I've Flushed out the block with the garden hose before reassembling and filling with coolant / water (about 60% coolant mix). New radiator cap. The fan shroud is the original one, and it is intact and unbroken.

I have the 1977 Ford service manuals on CD, and they have been a great help so far. Here is a list of the other things I am considering addressing as possibilities: I've got a flex fan, so no possibility of clutch failure. However, it's a 5 blade and one of the blades has the flex piece broken off, but the metal blade is still intact. Also, it measures 18-1/4" from tip to tip, but when I search online the standard size that comes up is 19-3/4". The opening in the shroud is 20-1/2", so the larger one should fit, but the one I have looks like it is original so I don't know if the 19-3/4" one will hit the shroud as it flexes at higher speeds. I'm considering replacing it with a 7-blade, which size would you use? And do you think this would be worth trying first? It is a regular rotation fan, and it is installed with the flex blades facing the engine, so I'm pretty sure it is not backwards. My Water pump (the shop I took it to for diagnosis before getting the radiator serviced said the radiator was 25% blocked, so I figure they would have noticed if the pump was bad they've done me right every time I've gone there). • I've read online that a bad EGR valve can cause overheating, considering replacing it. I've also read that timing problems can cause overheating, and that a bad EGR valve can contribute to the timing issue if there is one. I had the distributor replaced recently as well after it failed while driving. The last thing I've seen as a possibility is an exhaust restriction. When I got the car, the muffler had been damaged so I had it replaced. Later, the distributor failed so I had that replaced. When they started the car after the repair, it was running roughly. A friend at work had told me he thought the resonator at the end of the exhaust might be plugged, so I suggested they cut it off and install a straight tailpipe. The car ran fine after that. I've also recently had the carburetor rebuilt, so I doubt that could have anything to do with it. The last factor is that I live in Phoenix, and it has been between 110-115 every day for the past 3 weeks. I realize that this contributes to the problem, and I've known for a while that the car seems to run hotter than it should, but there has to be a way to get it to run at a normal temperature. It has never boiled over or had the temp light come on until recently. I'm trying to do as much as possible myself, because shops are expensive and funds are limited. I look forward to your response. Thanks again!

Patrick

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Hi Patrick -

Overheating engines are no fun. It looks like you have covered all of the important common areas of overheating. The fan blade that is missing the flex piece is never a good component to use on your engine. I would replace it with the largest one with the most blades that was correctly available for your engine when these cars were new.

I am assuming that your engine is actually overheating and that you are not just overfilling the system and that the hot engine sending unit is not faulty. All of the tune up specs and ignition timing etc. should of course be correct as per the shop manual. We are not familiar with the cooling system maintenance history on your engine but two other important possibilities do jump out at me in your situation. They are the extreme heat lately in Phoenix and the condition of your radiator. We have had many truly overheating engines at Lincoln Land that did have their radiators serviced along with many other parts replaced etc. that continued to overheat and were only and finally corrected when the radiators were properly re-cored with a new original style core assembly. Rodding out the original radiator core is a good repair but the procedure is only as good as the person that is doing the job. You and I were not there to watch what was actually done to each and every core tube in your radiator. Because of this and the Phoenix climate lately I am leaning towards a continued radiator problem after the core rodding. I am only strongly considering this scenario based on what you have already done to correct the issue and our experiences here at Lincoln Land. I would contact our office to discuss purchasing another fan blade to replace the one that you have with the missing flex piece for starters and then carefully considering a radiator re-core after discussing the problem with a trusted shop. If you have a good shop you can sit down with the owner and show him this reply and my statements regarding our experiences with radiators at Lincoln Land.

Sincerely,

Bill

June 10, 2016

1976 Lincoln Town Coupe ATC Problems And Follow Up

Hi Bill,

1976 Lincoln Town Coupe ATC blower problems. Hope you guys are well. May I tap into your vast knowledge of my Lincoln ATC system again please? Ever since I got the car there has been a intermittent fault with the system in that the blower fails to operate in both Low and Vent positions only, rest OK., very sporadic, usually after start up after a run, not normally after an overnight start up. Since fitting the ATC box from your good selves, the problem seemed to go away, (more than likely a coincidence) with the system performing faultlessly. Unfortunately, whilst driving home from friends on a particularly cold Saturday night a week or so ago, the system, which is normally left on Low all the time, did not start up when the engine warmed as normal. (The outward journey was trouble free with the usual sumptuous warm environment) The system (blower??) would work as normal in High, Defog and Defrost, but not in Low or Vent. Usually, when this occurs, the system "repairs itself" overnight and all is well the next day. Not this time however. It does seem to be the blower switching system, as you can hear the vacuum system and doors operating as normal. I even seemed yesterday to get a very gentle waft on both Low and Vent, which then seemed to stop all together. All the wiring and connections behind the control unit seem to be sound. Would a relay or the blower resistor cause such a problem? Must admit some of the wiring at the resistor connector block does look a little fried!! Have not had a chance to check it out properly due to the inclement weather. Boy what a wimp!! Any ideas you have to solve this problem would be very much appreciated. Thank you.

Kind regards to all,

Jim

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Greetings Jim -

Yes, loss of the LOW operation can certainly be caused by a fault at the blower motor resistor pack or a relay on the firewall. If you have spotted a possible bad connection at the resistor connector as you have stated, that is where you should begin. The resistor should be removed and the coils inspected carefully for breaks etc. and the individual pins at the connector cleaned as well as the female ends removed and tightened one at a time. A badly damaged connector plug or wire contact pin would need to be replaced. If repairing that connection does not correct the problem, the Range Relay on the engine side of the firewall should be properly tested next. The wire colors and internal contacts are shown in the Factory Shop Manual wiring diagram. The other relay in this circuit is the High Blower Relay but I would suspect the Range Relay first in your case. These relays are very popular fail items and we offer a rebuild service for them or replacements if they are too far gone. These first inspections should reveal the issue. If not, email us back and we will go to the next steps. A further good practice after the repair is to perform a blower motor draw test with an ammeter to be sure that the blower motor is not drawing excessive amperage which could cause future wiring problems. Let us know what you find Jim and we will be ready with any necessary parts that you may need.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Bill,

Thank you for the fast response. I will check out the items you mention as soon as I can, and let you know the outcome. You guys are life savers, especially for us overseas with no such thing as "Lincoln-Mercury" dealers.

Take care,

Jim

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Bill -

On 7th March 2016

I have done a little investigation as per your suggestions on the blog.

Firstly blower resistor connector: This has proved impossible to separate from the resistor module, and not wishing to do any damage (without replacement parts in my back pocket), I removed the resistor pack with the connector still in situ. The actual resistor module seems in excellent order. All the coils are present, without any breakages or signs of touching, overheating, scorching or general deterioration. In fact it looks brand new! However, the wire which I mentioned as looking somewhat fried in my first blog enquiry is actually terminal number 6, orange with black stripe. (All the other wires look fine from the outside) The insulation at the connector end is quite badly deteriorated for about 1/4 inch from the connector. I am unable to ascertain whether the actual male and female connectors within the units are damaged or corroded.

However, when I fitted the bits back together, horror upon horrors, the High auto function had also stopped working, but not the two demist functions, no doubt due to me messing around with the orange and black wire. Before I put the car away, I sprayed WD 40 all over the connector block in the hope of loosening the connector from the resistor module for the next attempt. When I reached the car storage facility, I tried the High function, and it worked fine. This will need to be check out of course, but I am reluctant to do too much work without any necessary replacement parts, fearing being without heating. Which leads me onto a question as to whether or not you can supply new connectors ready wired up to splice/ join into the wiring harness and push into the resistor module?

Secondly, the range relay. Not easy for me to check out due to lack of facilities. I am tempted to risk buying one to try it, as I feel that it is the most likely contender. Do you have these in stock?

On 10th March 2016

The High auto feature is still working great, and reduces the blower speed to quite low speeds when the temperatures are balanced. Tried again today to separate the connector from the resistor module, without success. The unit is in a difficult place for this old guy to get a good grip onto the connector, to apply sufficient force to separate the two, but if I could remove the whole assembly from the car, it may well be much easier. However, this would of course need the seven wires to be severed!! Oh dear. This is really frustrating. Oh for the hands and strength of youth. (And other things!)

To clarify: Please let me know the cost of: 1) replacement blower resistor connector with fitted wires, if these are available, or would it be feasible to cut the wires close to the actual connector, remove the assembly, separate the connector and resistor module, fit new female connectors to each wire, and re assemble. What would you do? I am afraid I don't know what bits are available. 2) replacement blower resistor--just in case. 3) replacement range relay.

I can then decide how to proceed, and have the parts with me before getting "stuck in". Hope all that made sense. Thanks again for all the help and advice. Very much appreciated.

Look forward to your reply,

Kind regards to all,

Jim

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Hello Jim -

Sorry to hear that you are having such a hard time with that resistor connector. A bad contact here has obviously heated and fused some elements together. If you are certain that a forced separation will destroy the connector plug and resistor pack we should be able to find and send you an undamaged connector and resistor with a length of the original wires attached and ready to splice. You could try to cut or saw your connector apart at the melted location in order to save some or most of the original wiring and attach them to the new connector and new resistor. You may then only need to splice one or two wires ( the ones that have the burnt connections ). These wires can be removed separately and one at a time as necessary from the connector by tripping a built in locking tab pin at the connector with the connector unplugged. This way you will be able to choose the correct path for the situation at the time of repair and have all necessary wiring at the ready.

As for the relay it would be easier I believe to send it to us for testing in order to verify a fault and then rebuilding as and only if required. I strongly advise to send in the blower high speed relay as well for testing here. We then could send them back to you with the above mentioned replacement wires, replacement resistor and replacement connector plug. I could even advise the color of wires to temporarily jump to lock the system on " low range " blower speeds. That way the car can still be used with the climate control mostly operating operating. Let us know what would be best for you or if you have further questions.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Guys,

Well we've done it! I managed to fit the refurbished parts on Good Friday without any problems. The main help was me seeing, from the resistor connector you sent, that there was a second clip fastener which is hidden from view when fitted in the car, and even with the resistor pack removed from the heater housing, not easy to see, without removing it from the car. When I discovered this, and released both clips, guess what, yes, the connector was easily removed from the resistor pack. Talk about feeling a fool!! Anyway the true extent of the damage was now easy to see, and it was a wonder the system had been able to function at all.

It seems that the male connector for number 6 connection, Orange and Black wire, had rusted through from the inside, (possibly due to the car not seeing much use during the 10 years prior to me buying it), and indeed there was little left protruding through the fibre/plastic casing of the resistor, the resultant resistance at the connection, and subsequent heat generation, causing the plastic connector (housing the female connector), to melt away, together with a substantial amount of sleeving from the wire. Evidence of sparking too. What a mess!!

As the connector was now separated from the resistor pack, I was able to fit the original 5 wires into the "new" connector, as per your suggestion, and leave the 2 heavy duty cables/wires you supplied in situ, with these spliced into the wiring harness. Job done. Of course the relays were a doddle to fit, and I am pleased I now have these refurbished too. Can only help the situation.

All wired up, and hey presto, the unit functions a treat. What a result. Splendid! A nice warm cabin environment, achieved in near silence. It's funny, when you manage to repair such problems, the system, whatever it might be, always seem to work much better than it before. Not hard to believe in this case!

Unfortunately I ran out of time to do a current draw test on the blower, but will do that ASAP. Just wished the weather would warm up a bit.

It only remains for me to thank you guys for all your time and trouble. I am sure you know how much it is appreciated.

Take care, and best wishes to all,

Jim

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Hi Jim -

Congratulations on the repair! We love to hear customer success stories. The blower draw test is good to do in the near future to ensure that the blower will not damage the wiring again if it is in fact over drawing. If it is within specifications, the connection that caused the burnt wiring plug was faulty for some time. Enjoy your Lincoln Jim.

Erik, George and Bill

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Hi Bill,

Managed to do a blower draw test, at last, on Friday. Yippee, within tolerance, at 22 amps on high blower speed. So all is now well. I know you guys would appreciate knowing the results. Seems it was the corroded terminal in the resistor module causing the trouble.

Take care,

Jim

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Hi Jim -

Excellent results on that test Jim. Case now closed, time too enjoy that nice Lincoln.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Bill,

Well the old ATC is playing up again, just as I thought we'd solved it. I've now lost the high blower range. It does seem similar to Dan's problem with his MK III below. Here we go then: when you move the control lever to de frost, the system will switch to full heat and the blower to full speed, but after only a few seconds running at full speed, the blower will switch out altogether, or at the best will run exceptionally slowly. I experienced this, if you remember, when I first examined the wiring at the blower resistor, thinking that me messing around with the wires had caused the problem. However it righted itself at the time and has been fine after the fitment of the refurbished resistor module and relays. Indeed it allowed me to check the blower current draw using the de frost setting without any trouble. So it does seem to have been in the background before I replaced these components. It also manifests itself in HIGH AUTO(when selected, blower will run on "intermediate" speed, then suddenly move to high speed, and again drop back to intermediate, were it will stay for the duration.)& LOW AUTO(when selected will run at very low speed and then after a while will surge to the high lower blower speed, and again after short time drop back to minimum.) I don't know if it's my imagination, but whilst the blower is running at any speed, it does not sound to be consistent, but with a very slight surging or variation in speed?? If I jump into a hot car with the system set at low auto, there is very little cool air admitted to the cabin, and then after about 5 minutes of driving the blower may or may not suddenly move to a high setting, and allow more cool air in. In high auto the same occurs, but with an initial slightly higher blower speed. I am unable to achieve max a/c. Then again, sometimes during the drive, I will get cold air?? The whole scenario is very unpredictable. I despair!! Continuity check of main switch is OK, and the system works, after a fashion, in all selected functions, it seems that the system just cannot decide what blower speed to utilize to fulfill the required function. I do hope all that made sense. As always, any ideas you have will be very much appreciated, and if you need any further info I am only too willing to help.

Kind regards to all, take care

Jim

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Jim -

Your description sounds like a high resistance somewhere in the blower circuit at the resistor multi plug or one of the relays. I would check for heat at all of the above connectors ONLY at the time that the fault is occurring. Of course we stand behind those parts that we have previously rebuilt for you. Before the above tests are done you should consider two other possibilities. The blower motor could be overdrawing amperage only after it has been on for awhile and is overheated. This in turn of course could damage any connections in the circuit. The blower motor draw test may need to be repeated and carefully observed with the blower motor on for a period of time. Power to the high relay from the battery is through a fuse link under the hood (bonnet). A faulty fuse link connection ( not completely failed ) could cause an intermittent relay feed. As I am not back to Lincoln Land until October we may need you speak with Erik for the fuse link location if the important blower draw test proves that the motor is drawing correctly in the lower 23 amp area when hot. The parts that we rebuilt can certainly handle the normal amperage draw. Let us know when your testing is done and you have more information in order to proceed to the next step.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Guys,

Thank you for the usual speedy response, and your patience and advice.

I have been attempting to do the tests you suggest. Unfortunately I am unable to get high blower speed to check the amperage draw, as at present the system will not provide this facility, apart from about 2 seconds duration when defrost is first selected, dropping almost immediately to very slow.

What I failed to mention last time was that in vent the blower works perfectly well, (This being the only position were it does) and, as it should, on the pre-determined speed and at a constant speed. So what I did this morning was to start the car and select Vent, jumped out and checked the current draw with the blower running at this speed. Result was 9-10 amps., and left the switch in vent for the following 1/2 hour drive. When I stopped I left the engine running and jumped out to check the blower draw again, and got the exact same result of 9-10 amps, so it does not look as though the blower is getting hot.

I have found the fusible link George referred to, near the passenger side firewall, with the yellow band identification. Looks a bit scary!! Don't know what to do with that. Is there anyway to check this out?

With the system switched to defrost, which is the position which seems to highlight the problem the most, I checked out the terminals at the resistor module and both relays.
All seemed to be well without any signs of heating. Please be aware that after fitment of the two relays and the resistor module, I did use the defrost setting to get the 22 amp reading for current draw, and at the time the system was running at full blower speed, so I am sure the relays and resistor module are performing correctly. I also say this because this very same problem, re very slow blower speed in defrost and other positions, did occur prior to the fitment of these components, and first became noticeable after my first attempt at checking the terminals on the resistor pack, because I thought it due to me messing with the wires. However this rectified itself, only to resurface on my first attempt at the current draw test after fitment of the new components. Again, rectified itself sufficiently for me to do the successful draw test later, only to re-occur later with fluctuating, "slow then high and then slow speeds" in both low and high auto, "steady speed" in vent, and then "initial high speed immediately dropping to very slow speed" in defrost. Oh boy, what a confusing mess!

What I have found purely by accident, whilst attempting to trace a rattle under the passenger side dash and burning my finger in the process, is that the compressor clutch relay (situated to the right of the ash tray) connection(s) is/are getting very hot. This occurs only when the compressor is switched in, the relay remaining cold when the compressor is switched out. I don't suppose this will be connected to the blower problem will it? After all the problem only seems to be prevalent in the positions when the compressor is switched in. May be coincidental. This will have to be looked into at a later date, as the weather has closed in again, with rain, rain and more rain. I will not use the compressor until this is sorted.

Over to you with the hot potato. (Only joking). As always any suggestion/advice you can give would be most welcome. Thank you.

Best wishes,

Jim

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Hi Jim -

A much better way of testing the blower motor amp draw is with a 10 gauge wire properly connected to the battery positive terminal and then through your ammeter gauge directly to the blower motor connection closest to the motor itself. Do this with the engine and the key in the off position. That way there is no other resistance involved, only the blower motor itself. This should be done for a reasonable period of time with a battery charger keeping the battery fully charged during the test. Any fluctuations in blower speed can also be noted.

The fuse link can be checked for excess heating by hand on the wire wrapping with the system on and the Defrost selected to maintain high blower. At the same time the link can be wiggled slightly to check for a bad internal connection. The compressor relay should not affect blower speeds or heat to such a degree that it literally burns your fingers in my opinion. If you believe that the compressor circuit could be a culprit you could pull that fuse out from the fuse box for a test without that circuit involved. Did you already include checking for excess heating of the multi plug and wire splices that you connected when you installed the new resistor and multi plug?

If nothing at all is found with the draw test or any other testing, we may need to discuss sending the relays back here for inspection.

Sincerely,

Bill

June 7, 2016

1964 Continental "Mysterious Leak"

Hi Bill,

I just purchased this car and have driven it around several times without any problems until yesterday. I started the car and put the top down. I was doing a walk around and noticed something dripping from the front drivers side bumper. A dark fluid that left a stain on the pavement so this is def the first time. Leaked a total of 1 or 2 cups. I have been working on cars for a while and this is not coolant (too dark) or engine oil (too dark, dipstick shows new oil, and does not seem viscous enough). Transmission fluid on the dipstick is a lovely bright color and registers full so not that. I am thinking break fluid or from some other hydraulic system. It actually appears to be leaking from the base of the frame that curves over the drivers side suspension components, like it could be leaking from higher up and running down the frame just to escape near the front bumper. No obvious source when looking under the hood. I would take a pic but there is a monsoon going on right now in Tampa so that will have to wait. I hope that was enough info without being too much. Thanks!

Benjamin

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Greetings Benjamin -

From your description I cannot even speculate with any accuracy as to the source of that leak from here. What I will say though is that if you are seeing actual liquid dripping from the bumper as you describe, anyone with a little automotive knowledge should be able to trace that dripping to the source. Good luck.

Bill

May 12, 2016

1963 Continental Sloppy Steering

Hi Bill -

Thank you again in advance for all your help with answering our classic Lincoln mechanical questions. I recently (personally) replaced my steering my box in the '63 Sedan. The reason being was that the steering was extremely sloppy when turning to the right in a gentle curve at highway speeds. I replaced the 3 insulators as well. Everything is lined up and mounting bolts torqued down. My test drives show the steering to be extremely sloppy in the neutral position. But gentle curves to right or left are just fine. Further eval now shows that the steering box will shift or "twist" when starting to turn the wheels from neutral to right or left and then shift/twist again when achieving full turn at the end points. I described to my local mechanic who asked if the "frame is shifting where the gear is mounted." My car was an Arizona car and has essentially no rust. Any suggestions as to the cause? I do have an appointment wit h my mechanic next week. Thank you again for all your help.

Phil

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Hello Phil -

The appointment with your mechanic is a good idea. He will be in the best position to check the complete steering and suspension up close for you. Did you have all of the steering linkage examined before embarking on the steering box replacement? Any steering and suspension component can be a candidate for the cause of poor steering and excess play. We have in stock and sell all of the necessary parts for the steering on the sixties Lincolns as well as rubber bushings and suspension springs. Your mechanic should be able to make a list of any worn out parts that you need to replace in order to correct your issues. We can then give you a price and availability as well as speedy shipping service with the correct new parts.

Many early sixties Lincoln owners are opting to replace the rubber steering box mounts with metal ones because of the excess movement of the rubber. Be sure to have your mechanic inspect the "Rag Joint" that is located immediately above the steering box as well as the rebuilt box itself (even if it is rebuilt) in case of possible faulty workmanship. After the worn parts are replaced if any worn parts are identified, be sure to have an alignment expert do a complete proper steering alignment as per the shop manual specifications.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 10, 2016

1973 Mark IV Power Window & Horn Questions

Hello Bill -

I recently bought a '73 Mark IV. None of the power windows work, and as far as I can tell I am not getting any power to the fuse. Is the relay before or after the fuse? Can a bad relay cause this? Also my horn does not work. I've taken the steering wheel off, and it seems like I am not getting any power to the steering wheel through the spring loaded contacts between the column and steering wheel. Do you have any tips?

Regards,

Jon

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Greetings Jon -

The power window safety relay is before the p/w circuit breaker. That breaker is located at position f10 in the fuse panel according to my wiring diagram. A faulty power window safety relay can of course cause all of the power windows not to work.

The horn circuit is supplied power via breaker f12in the fuse panel using a yellow wire with a blue dot tracer according to the wiring diagram. Vehicles with the Speed Control option also employ a horn relay in the circuit.

Your question " Do you have any tips" has one important answer from Lincoln Land. Performing any diagnosis on these circuits usually requires the use of the correct factory wiring diagrams and some electrical knowledge in order to understand the circuitry and locate most of the problems in a logical sequence. The best tool in your tool box could be the correct Wiring Diagram for your car. If you have recently purchased the Mark IV in this condition also be on the lookout for possible wiring misconnects and incorrect improvising from a previous owner. We wish you a speedy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 9, 2016

1969 Mark III AC Question & Follow Up....

Hello Bill,

Hoping to get your expert advice again. I've just finished assembling the AC system which was completely re-built. Long story short, I charged it up and cold air out of registers, however here is the problem, the system only works on LOW. When I switch to DEICE or DEFOG, the blower does not turn on, and when I switch to HIGH, the blower does not turn on. If I jiggle the switch slightly in the HIGH position, I get the blower motor to turn on momentarily. I have performed every function test (having taken the control head out of the dash and passed all continuity tests), tested the ACC Box (passed every test), and tested servo using quick test in the ACC diagnosis book. The high range relay seems to be working properly. I hear the "click" when I switch to HIGH. I'm at a crossroads. My gut is telling me that it's just a bad blower switch but why would it have checked out during the continuity tests and would it prevent the DEFOG and DEICE functions from working as well? It seems odd to fail in 3 of the 4 positions, I would expect it to fail in all 4 positions; but then again, anything is possible. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Much obliged,

Dan

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Hi Dan -

That Automatic Climate Control in your Mark III is one of the nicest operating systems ever. It was far ahead of others during the years of their production. They can be a nightmare to diagnose and repair when they fail though due to the lack of knowledge and parts today.

From your description you have done some meaningful diagnosis work and if your work was translated correctly some fault should have shown up. The one item that jumps out as a red flag when I read your email is your High Range relay test. You indicate that it seems to be working o/k because you hear it click when High, Defog or De-ice is selected. When you hear that click inside of that relay it only indicates that the selector has sent power to that relay and its coil and that the coil has been properly activated to close the contacts. At this point you do not know if power is available from the battery to the relay contact or if that power was sent through the contact points to the High Range blower circuit. I would advise checking that relay completely using your wiring diagram and a 12v test light and letting us know what you find out. That relay is a popular fail item that we can rebuild or replace for you if necessary. If the relay proves to be absolutely working correctly and sends power out as designed we will go to the next step. Have you ever had this system working or is this vehicle a recent purchase with a non operative HVAC.

Sincerely.

Bill

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Hi Bill,

Thanks for your response. I did check the terminals on the relay but only to see if any voltage on any one terminal was present. I think there was voltage at 2 out of three terminals with any one of the blower switch positions. I'm not sure if this is the way it's supposed to be but I suppose I need to actually check it against a wiring diagram.

As for the system ever working, at one point, the blower kicked on for every setting. Recently, I lost Defog and DeIce. Last year before I parked for the winter, HIGH stopped working. But like I say, if I can find the sweet spot in the switch, HIGH will work.

At this point though, the system works as it should on LOW- blower speed starts out high and reduces as the temperature comes down in the car. If I raise the temperature the registers shut off and air diverts to the floor vents (I assume this is normal). If I lower the temp again, I get air out of registers until it reaches the set point at which point it goes back to floor vents, so on and so forth.

I will update once I've performed an actual test on the relay but I think I'm narrowed down to either that or the switch itself. Is the relay utilized on DEFOG and DEICE?

Dan

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Dan -

In your recent email you state " I THINK there was voltage at two out of three of the relay terminals". This suggests that you are not sure of your testing. If you are in fact not sure, your diagnosis does not help me. If you do indeed have voltage at only two out of the three wires at the range relay when on the High, Defog and Deice setting, that relay is faulty. There should be power at one wire at all times and when the relay coil is powered up from a second wire the contacts close to send power to the third wire. If you are unsure, we can offer to test it for you if it is mailed to our office.

As for the control head being faulty, this of course is a possibility but you have stated in you first email that all of the tests that you performed as per the shop manual have proven that the control head, the acc box and the power servo are all o/k. If that is true I would want to be absolutely certain that the Range Relay was in good working order before guessing and replacing any other expensive components or tracing the wiring for a possible problem. If however during any Control Switch testing you needed to move the lever slightly off from its detent center setting as you indicate to hunt for a so called " sweet spot" in High or any other setting in order to "pass" the test for continuity, the switch has failed. The continuity tests must be accurate and definite in all settings in order to pass the switch. We are able to test this switch for you also if you wish.

George mentioned to me that you have all of the shop manuals. The correct FoMoCo manuals will have the wiring diagram shown in the HVAC section. The interior and operation of the range relay is also shown. The range relay should be activated in High, De-fog and De-ice by the main control switch. Good luck with the repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 2, 2016

1986 Town Car - New Owner Vacuum Line Questions.....

Hi Bill -

I was just given a 1986 Town Car. It had a leaking heater core so I decided to replace it myself to save a few bucks.

All went well except for one minor problem. I have one small vacuum line under the dash I do not know where it was connected. I have the four other vacuum lines labeled and reconnected to what I refer to as vacuum actuators on the plenum. This fifth line I do not recall seeing at removal and I'm not sure where it goes. Any idea?

I'm not well versed in auto repair so please keep it simple ;)

Thanks in advance.

Joe

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Joe -

If you could forward some photos - we may be able to help.

Bill

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Hi Bill,

Thank you for your fast response and offer of help.

I've sent along some pics. The color coding on this particular vacuum line is black and white. It has a male grommet hole pin taped midway up the line to clip into a support hole. While once again searching for a connect point and taking pics I also found a blue electrical connection. Pic included also. I'm wondering if maybe it's an extra included in the wiring harness for a feature I don't have. Can't find anything to plug it into. I marked all the connections I took apart .... at least I can't remember taking apart any connections without marking them thinking its foolproof reassembly. I should know better than to think that ;)

The electrical connection is near the passenger side quarter panel area.

Joe -

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Joe -

From your photos the vacuum hose in question is black with a white stripe. Ford uses that color hose for the HVAC Recirculating Door Vacuum motor. The recirculating assembly is located at the right side cowl area somewhat near the glove box area under the dash and up to the right. Locate that vacuum motor and plug the vacuum hose in to the nipple. If there already is a hose in at that location, that hose could possibly be plugged into the wrong vacuum motor.

Your photo of the blue electrical connector reveals no information to me. If you did disconnect it from somewhere you should remember because it appears to have the usual locking feature that needs to be released before it can be pulled and disconnected.

After you find the location for the vacuum hose you could operate the ac/heat system and check the operation to determine if that blue connector is part of the operation or not. For further HVAC vacuum and electrical information you will need to have and read the vacuum and wiring diagrams. We would have these available for you if necessary.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 29, 2016

1963 Continental New Owner Questions - Vapor Lock, Hard To Crank, Tail Lights....

Bill -

I recently inherited a 1963 Lincoln Continental (majority all original). Just had the transmission re-built (would not go into reverse) and had a tune up. The car would run, but when I turned it off it would not start again. During the tune up they adjusted the timing (was running fast) and they said it should fix the vapor lock issue. The car had been running great, I took the car for a 30 minute drive on the highway and when heading back to the house the car shut off and would not restart. Had some friends push it back to the house and went out the next morning and the car started. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Second issue: it takes the car 10-15 cranks for the car to start, any thoughts or suggestions?

Third Issue: the taillights are on and won't turn off, draining the battery. Any thoughts or suggestions?


Thanks

Casey

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Hi Casey -

Some of these issues can be annoying to collector vehicle owners who have others perform maintenance on their cars. These 60's Lincolns have fuel and ignition systems that are not familiar to most of today's technicians. The engine can stall in the manner that you describe if it looses ignition as designed or proper fuel supply. The reason ( loss of fuel or ignition ) must be determined in order to proceed with a repair. Your mechanic may need to road test the car and revisit his tune up adjustments and the new parts that he has installed etc. according to specifications in the Shop Manual. New correctly adjusted points and a new condenser are a must in any tune up maintenance. If the engine has stalled from loss of fuel to the carburetor he may need to perform a fuel volume and pressure test as well as inspect the fuel filter ( including the one at the fuel pick up in the fuel tank ) and the fuel lines and hoses. If the car has not been used in a while and or the history is unknown to you, the fuel pump or its pushrod could be failing or debris in the form of rust can be drawn slowly over time from the fuel tank to the carburetor. This debris is well known to clog filters and deposit fine particles inside the carburetor resulting in an upset fuel mixture. Once you get the issue identified and corrected you will be good to go.

Your third issue of the "tail lights won't turn off" actually sounds like the brake lights are in fact staying on and not the tail lights. If this is so, it is almost always caused by a faulty Brake Light Switch. If this is true it must be replaced a.s.a.p. as they are known to cause a fire if brake fluid is leaking into their electrical cavity, These brake lights can also stay on because of a hydraulic fault causing some pressure to remain in the brake lines without the brake pedal being pressed. As mentioned above though the brake switch itself is the first item to suspect. Unplug a wire at this switch ( located at or near the brake master cylinder ) to prove if that is indeed your problem. They are available new at Lincoln Land and are relatively inexpensive. I recommend replacing them as a safety precaution if they appear old because of the above mentioned fire hazard. Let us know what you discover.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 4, 2016

1963 Continental Transmission Shifting Questions & Follow Up

Hi Bill,

When I accelerate the transmission changes up through the gears correctly and smoothly, if I'm in third and take my foot off the accelerator then press down on it slowly the trans will always change down a gear no matter whether I'm doing 30mph or 60mph. I've adjusted the kickdown and manual linkages as per the maintenance manual but still no joy. I have also checked the vacuum unit for leaks and it seems fine. Any ideas?

Thanks a lot -

Aaron

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Greetings Aaron -

After reading your issue and what you have checked so far, there is one important item that we can think of. The transmission kickdown linkage and calibrated spring must perform as designed. There is a very important spring near the carburetor at the linkage that governs the downshift kickdown linkage. I say governs because that spring is calibrated to a special rate in order to allow the bellcrank to activate the transmission kickdown linkage only during specific throttle movements. A drawing of the linkage and spring is shown in your service manual. Could an incorrect spring be installed on your car? Did the transmission previously perform o/k? If the problem suddenly began without the spring being changed, there could of course be an internal transmission issue. Let us know what you find.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Bill,

The transmission was operating correctly with the original springs that you spoke about. The problem just started out of the blue. I bought new springs from you guys hoping that would fix the issue but unfortunately it didn't. Because a lot of things are vacuum operated on this car does that mean if even one hose is off, even if its not transmission related, that will effect the trans operation?

Thanks

Aaron

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Hi Aaron -

A small vacuum leak from another component will not noticeably affect the vacuum to and the operation of the transmission modulator valve. Vacuum to that valve can be tested with a vacuum gauge tee'd into the vacuum line that routes down to the inlet port of the valve. You should also check that uninterrupted vacuum is actually available all the way down to that port. It couldn't hurt to remove the valve to inspect for internal fluid leaks and that the actuator pin is present and intact. A bench check of the valve for movement with vacuum could also be done. Since you have been changing springs and adjusting the linkages I am assuming that they are correct and adjusted properly as you have stated. A good test to find out if the kickdown linkage is maladjusted or causing a problem is to disconnect the rod at the bellcrank temporarily and tie it away from other parts to a nearby bracket on the engine. It must be tied in the no kickdown throttle off position. The transmission will then receive no instruction from the linkage to downshift. Road test the car to find out if the issue still exists. If the problem goes away, the linkage and spring adjustments etc. need to be revisited. If the transmission was fine prior to this downshift issue and no adjustments or modifications to anything that could affect the shifting was performed then you may need to have a technician at a transmission shop familiar with this type of transmission road test the vehicle in order to evaluate the situation.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 25, 2016

1973 Mark IV Stalling On Hills

Hi Bill,

My 1973 Lincoln Mark IV sometimes stalls on hills. It will start right back up when on level ground. I have an electric fuel pump now, because I have gone thru 3 mechanical pumps. But I still have the problem. It can sometimes drive up hill, but struggles to start when facing up hill. No problems going downhill. Any assistance and ideas would be appreciated. Thank you.

Ray

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Hello Ray -

From your description your issue sure sounds like a fuel starvation problem. The only thing that can change on an incline is the fuel in the carburetor bowl or the fuel tank. A hill should not affect the ignition therefore I would investigate the fuel tank and carburetor for starters. One scenario could be that the fuel pick up assembly in the tank could be corroded and can only draw in fuel when the tank is quite full. Was the fuel tank fuel pick up ever inspected? Filling the fuel tank and driving uphill would be the easiest fuel test. If it does not stall driving uphill with a full tank, keep driving then car as you normally do until the engine begins to stall again and then add only a gallon or two of fuel to find out if it is fine again. If it is fine again you will need to inspect the fuel "sending unit " and pick up tube. At the same time the fuel hoses and lines could be inspected also. I am assuming that your fuel pump (after three or four of them) and the fuel filter are both ok. If the fuel system is ok at that point and the engine still stalls with a full tank of gas then the carburetor floats could be set too low and shutting off the fuel inlet valves too soon thus causing the carburetor to starve for fuel when driving up hill. By the way, how did the heater core work out for that you purchased from us in 2010?

Sincerely,

Bill

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