1971 Mark III Questions & Update

Bill,
The original fan shroud on my Mark III, while in pretty good condition overall and the cooling system operational, is split from front to back through the bottom edge and broken where the bolts fasten it to the radiator on the upper edge. I’d like to remove this shroud to make long-term repairs and clean up that area while I’m restoring the engine bay. However, I cannot determine for sure how to properly remove it. The shop manual only mentions removing it from the radiator in order to remove the fan drive clutch, but it appears there isn’t room to completely remove the shroud while the fan is still in place since the fan is in pretty close proximity to the back of the radiator. It seems the only way to remove the shroud is to first remove the fan drive clutch and fan as an assembly from the water pump hub in front of the belt via four hex screws. This looks necessary in order to free up space to pull the shroud up and out. The manual mentions loosening the fan belt, but I don’t see why that would be necessary. Is my assumption correct, or am I missing an easier way to remove the shroud? Also, is removing the fan drive clutch a riskier process than it appears?
Bradley
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Bradley –
You are correct, the fan and clutch should be removed first in order to avoid further damage to the shroud or radiator. I would loosen the fan bolts first before loosening the belts. If you do remove the clutch and fan without loosening the belts at all, the re-installation with the tight belts will be very difficult. The shroud and fan assembly can be lifted out together when the necessary bolts are removed if the clearances are too tight. The whole job is actually quite easy.
Sincerely,
Bill
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Bill,
The clearance between the top of the fan and shroud is almost 1.5″ compared to only 1/8″ at the bottom, so I am looking into replacing the motor mounts, thinking that might raise the engine and fan. I inspected the situation from underneath the car, and the rubber looks to be solid and in good condition with the original numbers visible. I attached a picture of each side.
1. If they looked cracked or compressed, I’d feel more confident that they actually need to be replaced. Should sagging mounts show their worn out condition on the vehicle?
2. Also, and the driver’s side looks pretty easy to get to, however access to the passenger side is hampered by the Sure-Track system and emissions canister. The shop manual 21-24-04 makes no mention of these obstacles, so can you advise me of any tricks to changing those motor mounts?
3. The manual also instructs to position a wood block between a jack and the front area of the oil pan and raise and support the engine with the jack. It seems risky to me to use the oil pan for support, so I have to ask if you agree or is there a safer way?
4. Finally, should these bolts that are to be torqued be oiled prior to re-installation as mentioned, or do they require oil or water-resistant sealer?
Thank you.
Bradley
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Bradley –
Your motor mounts look OK and well shaped in your photos. In fact they appear to not be very old. Without seeing any thing else I would say that you need to check your shroud installation. It may not be seated correctly at the bottom or distorted from your recent repair and cannot be installed properly? Only someone viewing this situation on scene will be able to pinpoint the actual problem now.
Sincerely,
Bill