1971 Mark III Power Steering Leak

Bill,
I am experiencing minor power steering fluid leaks on my 71 Mark III. I am assuming that the fluid path starts through the hose with the metal tubing between the pump and the steering box and then through the wiper motor. From there, another hose with a one metal fitting on the wiper motor connects to a cooler with a regular hose clamp. Finally, another hose without any metal tubing connects the cooler to the lower section of the pump. Is this what is referred to as the return hose? I seem to be experiencing most of the leakage from this last rubber hose connection at the pump, with some minor residue seeping through both of the hoses where they connect to the cooler. None of the other threaded connections are leaking, but there is slight fluid residue seeping out of the rubber-to-metal connections on the other hoses.
I have reviewed the shop manual and not found much guidance, so I’m interested in knowing if changing the all-rubber hose is as easy as taking it off and replacing it with a high likelihood of sealing the most significant leak. Also, if I decide to change all the hoses, is there a trick to disconnecting them from the wiper motor? They are so tight, I’m afraid to put any more pressure for fear of damaging the wiper motor or its fittings.
Bradley
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Greetings Bradley –
The power steering return hoses at some of the pumps and coolers usually have clamps that are similar to heater hose clamps that can be tightened to correct most seepage or leaks. If not or if the hose is deteriorated, the hose assembly will need to be replaced as a unit. There is no real ” trick ” to removing the other hoses and steel lines from the system. It is a good idea to use quality open end wrenches or line wrenches in some cases and to definitely use a back up wrench in the appropriate locations to avoid twisting and ruining other components that the lines are attached to. You should position yourself in the best comfortable area to have excellent leverage and control of the wrenches in order to initially ” break” the coupling loose. They may be very tight because they may have been on there for a long while or a previous owner or his mechanic may have over tightened them.
Sincerely,
Bill